Give London three or four nights, then leave, because the country starts where the capital stops. North: York, Manchester and Liverpool, then the Lake District fells. West: Bath and Bristol, then the Cornwall coast path. Wales: Cardiff, then Snowdonia. Scotland: Edinburgh, Glasgow and the train to Inverness for the Highlands. May, June and September have the long light without the school holidays. July and August are the busiest weeks.
2 United Kingdom city guides
Fun fact
British stamps carry no country name. The Universal Postal Union exempted Great Britain in 1874 because it had issued the world’s first adhesive stamp, the Penny Black, in 1840, on condition the reigning monarch’s head serves as the mark of origin.
Stereotypes, sorted out
The realityIt rains often and lightly, and the country is drier than its reputation. London gets less annual rainfall than Rome or New York. The wet part is real in the Lake District and the west of Scotland, where the hills wring out the Atlantic.
The realityThat verdict was earned in the post-war decades and has not applied for thirty years. London holds one of the densest restaurant scenes in Europe, the produce (cheese, lamb, shellfish, apples) is excellent, and the curry houses of Birmingham and Bradford are a national cuisine in their own right.
The realityEngland is one nation of four. Great Britain is the island holding England, Scotland and Wales, and the United Kingdom adds Northern Ireland. Scotland and Northern Ireland have their own legal systems, Wales and Scotland their own parliaments. Calling a Scot English sours a conversation.
The realityReserve with strangers is real, and it evaporates in a pub, on a train delay or over a dog. The formality is mostly a habit of language: please, sorry and thank you are used constantly and mean almost nothing beyond keeping things smooth.
The realityLondon holds under a seventh of the population and almost none of the landscape. Manchester, Glasgow and Birmingham have their own music, papers and opinions of the capital, and the national parks that most travellers come for are hours away from it.
Cultural notes that actually help
- Join the back of the queue. It is the closest thing the country has to a rule, and pushing in is noticed by everyone and mentioned by nobody.
- Order at the bar in a pub. Nobody comes to your table, you pay as you go, and there is no tipping when you do.
- Stand on the right on escalators, in London especially. Walking up the left is not optional at rush hour.
- Sorry is not always an apology. It covers excuse me, pardon, and I am about to squeeze past you.
- Say England only when you mean England. Britain, the UK and England are three different things, and the difference matters most to the people you are speaking to.
- Round up a taxi fare and leave the bar alone. Restaurant service is often already on the bill, and you can ask for it to come off.
- Look right first when you cross. Traffic drives on the left, and the painted reminders in central London exist because the instinct is hard to override.
Famous British faces

William Shakespeare

Isaac Newton

Charles Darwin

Winston Churchill

Alan Turing

David Bowie

Kate Bush

Elton John

Amy Winehouse

Adele

Charlie Chaplin

Alfred Hitchcock

Judi Dench

Anthony Hopkins

Sean Connery

Michael Caine

Olivia Colman

Idris Elba

David Beckham

Andy Murray

Lewis Hamilton

Steve Redgrave

Rosalind Franklin

Alexander Fleming

Tim Berners-Lee

Charles Dickens

Virginia Woolf

George Orwell

Agatha Christie

J.R.R. Tolkien

J.M.W. Turner

John Constable

Henry Moore

David Hockney

James Dyson

Richard Branson

Emmeline Pankhurst

Diana, Princess of Wales
The Beatles
Elizabeth II
The Rolling Stones
Queen
Pink Floyd
Led Zeppelin
Oasis
Radiohead
Mo Farah
Jessica Ennis-Hill
Michael Faraday
Ada Lovelace
Stephen Hawking
Jane Austen
Robert Burns
Dylan Thomas
Barbara Hepworth
Banksy
Isambard Kingdom Brunel
Thomas Cook
Josiah Wedgwood
Florence Nightingale
Mary Seacole
William Wilberforce
Margaret Thatcher
Must-try British food

Full English breakfast
Bacon, sausage, egg, beans, tomato, mushroom and toast, built to carry you to dinner.

Yorkshire pudding
Batter baked in hot fat until it climbs the tin. Non-negotiable beside roast beef.

Shepherd's pie
Minced lamb under a mashed potato lid, browned under the grill. Beef makes it cottage pie.

Toad in the hole
Sausages baked into Yorkshire pudding batter, served with the same onion gravy.

Bubble and squeak
Yesterday's potato and cabbage fried into a crisp cake, usually with a fried egg.

Cornish pasty
Beef, potato, swede and onion crimped into pastry, invented as a miner's lunch.

Steak and kidney pie
Slow-cooked beef and kidney under suet or shortcrust, the archetypal pub pie.

Ploughman's lunch
Cheddar, pickle, bread and an onion on a board. Simple, and only as good as its cheese.

Scotch egg
A boiled egg wrapped in sausage meat and breadcrumbs, best when the yolk is still soft.

Pie and mash
A minced beef pie, mash and green parsley liquor, from the old East End shops.

Fish and chips
Cod or haddock in batter with thick chips, salt and vinegar. Best by the sea, from paper.

Dressed crab
Brown and white meat returned to the shell, with brown bread. A Devon and Cornwall order.

Jellied eels
Eel set cold in its own stock, with vinegar and pepper. An East End taste to try once.

Welsh rarebit
A savoury cheese and ale sauce grilled onto toast. Nothing to do with rabbit.

Cawl
Welsh lamb or beef slow-cooked with leek, swede and potato, with bread and cheese.

Cream tea
Scones, clotted cream and jam. Devon puts cream first, Cornwall jam, and both are certain.

Bakewell tart
Frangipane over jam in shortcrust, from the Derbyshire town still arguing over the recipe.

Sticky toffee pudding
Date sponge drowned in toffee sauce, claimed by the Lake District and served everywhere.

Crumpets
Yeasted holes designed to hold melted butter. Toasted, never fresh.

Chip butty
Chips in a buttered white roll. Northern, unapologetic, and better than it sounds.

Scotch whisky
Five regions and a thousand arguments. Speyside for sweetness, Islay for smoke.

Gin and tonic
London dry gin is a protected style, and distilleries are back in the city that named it.

Tea
Strong, with milk, and offered before any difficult conversation.
Sunday roast
Roast beef, lamb or chicken with roast potatoes, gravy and seasonal veg, eaten slowly.
Bangers and mash
Sausages, mashed potato and onion gravy. The cheapest good dinner in the country.
Pork pie
Hot-water crust, chopped pork and a layer of jelly. Melton Mowbray is the protected name.
Whitstable oysters
Farmed off the Kent coast since Roman times, eaten cold with lemon by the water.
Kippers
Cold-smoked herring grilled for breakfast. Craster and the Isle of Man dispute the best.
Potted shrimp
Morecambe Bay brown shrimp set in spiced butter, spread on hot toast.
Haggis, neeps and tatties
Scotland's spiced oat and offal pudding, served with mashed swede and potato.
Cullen skink
Smoked haddock, potato and onion in milk, from the Moray Firth coast.
Stornoway black pudding
Protected Hebridean blood pudding, coarse and peppery, sliced into any Scottish breakfast.
Bara brith
Welsh tea loaf, fruit soaked overnight in tea, sliced thick and buttered.
Ulster fry
Northern Ireland's breakfast, with soda bread and potato farl beside everything else.
Victoria sponge
Two plain sponges, jam and cream, and the benchmark every village show judges by.
Eccles cake
Flaky pastry packed with buttery currants, from the Manchester suburb it is named after.
Shortbread
Three ingredients, Scottish, and impossible to improve by adding a fourth.
Chicken tikka masala
A British invention Glasgow claims, the dish that made curry houses an institution.
Balti
Cooked and served in the same steel bowl, from Birmingham's Balti Triangle.
Bacon sarnie
Bacon in bread with brown sauce or ketchup, and the country's default hangover cure.
Cask ale
Served cool, never cold, from the barrel, and the reason the pub exists.
West Country cider
Pressed from cider apples in Somerset, Devon and Herefordshire. Dry, cloudy and strong.
Irn-Bru
Scotland's orange soft drink, sold on a flavour nobody has ever identified.



