Start at the cathedral and its nave vault, then book a tour of the Underground Passages, the medieval water tunnels under the High Street. Give RAMM a morning, walk the Roman wall to Northernhay Gardens, and spend an afternoon at the Quay and along the canal. Keep a second day for the Exe Estuary Trail, a train to Topsham or Exmouth, or a drive onto Dartmoor.
Exeter is Devon's county town, a compact cathedral city on the River Exe with a Roman wall still around much of its centre. Everything inside the wall is walkable, the Quay and canal are ten minutes downhill, and the estuary, Dartmoor and the Jurassic Coast are all within an hour.
There is no central tower, so the vault runs unbroken for just under 100 metres, the longest medieval stone vault in the world. Book a roof tour for the towers and the view, but expect more than 150 steps.
Medieval tunnels built to carry clean water into the city, and the only system of its kind in Britain open to visitors. Guided tours run Thursday to Sunday, under-fives are not admitted, and booking is essential in school holidays.
The Royal Albert Memorial Museum is free and covers Devon from its geology and Roman finds to world cultures and a fine art gallery. It is closed on Mondays, so plan a museum morning for later in the week.
The old port at the head of England's first canal with pound locks, cut in the 1560s. The Custom House of 1680-81 is a free visitor centre; walk the towpath south to Double Locks for a canal-side pint.
A flat, mostly traffic-free path down the estuary from the Quay through Topsham and Lympstone to Exmouth. Ride one way and take the Avocet Line train back, or cross to Starcross on the ferry for a full loop.
About 70 per cent of the Roman wall survives, and the best stretch runs past Northernhay Gardens, laid out in 1612 and called England's oldest public open space. The Norman gatehouse of Rougemont Castle stands above it.
One of the oldest civic buildings in England still in use, its timber-roofed hall behind a pillared Tudor front on the High Street. Entry is free, but it closes for civic functions, so check the council's page the same day.
A Benedictine priory turned Tudor merchant's house, furnished as it was around 1600, off Fore Street. It opens on set days only, mostly Mondays, and entry is free with donations welcome.
A former port on the estuary, ten minutes down the Avocet Line, with Dutch-gabled houses, antique shops and a waterfront path. Finish at the Bridge Inn, the first pub Elizabeth II officially visited.
A free museum of the moving image on the university's Streatham campus, from magic lanterns and optical toys to film posters and fan memorabilia. It is a 20-minute walk uphill from the centre, or a short bus ride.
A march through the centre to Northernhay Gardens, with two stages of local acts.
Three days of livestock, food and show-jumping at Westpoint, east of the city.
An alcohol-free weekend of music and food from the city’s communities in Belmont Park.
Makers’ stalls and demonstrations on Cathedral Green over three days.
Free tours of buildings usually closed, including the Guildhall and St Nicholas Priory.
Burning tar barrels carried through the streets of an East Devon town on Bonfire Night.
Wooden chalets of Devon makers and food on Cathedral Green.
A covered ice rink and fairground rides in Northernhay Gardens.
The main station, an uphill walk of about 15 minutes from the High Street. GWR runs direct to London Paddington in about two and a quarter hours, and on to Plymouth and Cornwall.
Central is the stop for the shops. South Western Railway runs to London Waterloo, and the Avocet Line reaches Topsham and Exmouth in about half an hour.
East of the city off the A30. Ryanair and TUI fly summer sun routes, and Loganair runs UK domestic links; local buses connect to the city centre.
Stagecoach runs the city routes, the Park and Ride sites on the edge of town, and services out to the coast and the market towns.
Scones split, clotted cream first, then the jam.
Thick, scalded Devon cream, on scones, puddings and ice cream.
Brown and white crab meat from the south coast, in sandwiches.
Day-boat catch from the Torbay port, on most menus in the city.
From the Red Ruby Devon, the county’s own breed of cattle.
Farmhouse cider from the county’s orchards, still or sparkling.
An old Devon pie of lamb baked with apple and onion.
Bread or a split with clotted cream and golden syrup.
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