Walk the full circuit of the city walls first, then drop down into the Rows, the two-tier galleries of shops along Eastgate, Watergate, Northgate and Bridge Street. Give the cathedral and the Grosvenor Museum a morning, see the Roman amphitheatre and the Groves on the river, and keep a second day for Chester Zoo or a train out to North Wales.
Chester is a compact walled city on the River Dee, two miles round and almost all of it walkable in a day. The Romans built the fortress of Deva here, the medieval city built the Rows on top of it, and the Victorians restored both in black and white.
The most complete Roman and medieval town walls in Britain, about two miles round and free to walk at any hour. Start at the Eastgate Clock, go clockwise past the cathedral and the racecourse, and allow an hour without stops.
Two levels of shops along the four main streets, with a covered gallery running at first-floor height. Most of the black-and-white fronts are Victorian, but the undercrofts beneath them are medieval; Watergate Row is the quietest stretch.
A red sandstone abbey church that became a cathedral under Henry VIII, with carved medieval choir stalls and a cloister garden. Entry is free for most of the year, with a small charge in summer and at Christmas.
The largest Roman amphitheatre yet uncovered in Britain, though only about two-fifths of it is exposed. It is free and open-air; pair it with the Roman Gardens next door, where columns from the fortress are laid out by the wall.
Chester's own museum, free, with a gallery of Roman tombstones from the city walls and a furnished Georgian house behind it. Open Tuesday to Sunday and closed on Mondays, except bank holidays.
A conservation zoo north of the city large enough to fill a day, from the Islands habitats to the elephants and jaguars. Book online: it is cheaper than the gate, and midweek dates outside school holidays cost least.
The riverside promenade below the walls, with a bandstand and the Queens Park suspension bridge. Short river cruises leave from here in the warmer months; the walk on to the Old Dee Bridge gives the classic view back to the city.
England's oldest racecourse still in use, a tight track on the river meadow beneath the walls. The May Festival is the big meeting; on race days you can watch for free from the walls, though roads around it close.
Theatre, cinema, library and restaurant in the 1936 Odeon, reopened in 2017. In summer it runs the open-air theatre season in Grosvenor Park; the library and café are free to sit in during the day.
The new market off Northgate Street opened in 2022, with around 40 stalls, a central bar and a covered garden. Come for lunch or an early dinner; it is closed on Mondays except bank holidays.
Producers and cooking demonstrations on the racecourse over Easter weekend.
Three days of racing on the Roodee, with Ladies Day on the Thursday.
Talks and readings at Storyhouse across five weeks.
A street parade first recorded in 1498, from Town Hall Square at 2pm.
Storyhouse's summer season of plays in the park, under the trees.
Starts and finishes at the racecourse; one of the largest marathons in the UK.
Wooden chalets around the Town Hall and cathedral, free to enter.
The evening winter version of the parade, held on Thursdays in early December.
A 15-minute walk from the Eastgate. Avanti runs direct to London Euston in about two hours; Transport for Wales serves North Wales and Manchester.
Electric trains to Liverpool city centre through the Wirral in about 45 minutes, calling at Port Sunlight on the way.
The nearest long-haul airport, about 35 minutes by car on the M56. Transport for Wales runs direct trains in around an hour and a half.
Crumbly, mild and among the oldest named British cheeses.
An old local lemon tart, also made as a steamed sponge.
A thick vegetable soup with plenty of Cheshire cheese stirred in.
Beef or lamb with Yorkshire pudding, best in the old inns.
From over the border, on most menus in the city.
Dairy-farm ice cream from the county’s herds, sold all summer.
Served in the hotels and tearooms along the Rows.
Brewed at Waverton outside the city, poured at the Brewery Tap.
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