First trips work best as one city and one drive. New York for a week of museums, food and neighborhoods, then either San Francisco and the California coast or Miami and the Florida Keys. Plan around the distances rather than against them: New York to Los Angeles is a six-hour flight, and the interior between them is the part worth a car. April to June and September to October give the widest band of usable weather across the country at once.
8 United States city guides
Fun fact
The National Park System runs to 433 units across more than 85 million acres, an area larger than the whole of the United Kingdom. Only 63 of them carry the National Park title. The rest are monuments, seashores, battlefields and parkways.
Stereotypes, sorted out
The realitySmall talk is a courtesy rather than a claim of friendship. A stranger asking how your day is going means it politely, and the warmth behind it is real even when the conversation lasts a minute.
The realityTrue across most of the map and wrong in the cities worth the most time. New York, Chicago, Boston, Washington and San Francisco all work on foot and rail. Rent the car for the stretch between them.
The realityEvery city runs on immigrant kitchens, farmers markets and regional cooking that predates the chains: Gulf seafood, New Mexican chile, Californian produce, Carolina barbecue.
The realityNew York to Los Angeles is close to 4,000 km and a six-hour flight. Pick a region, finish it, and come back for the next one.
Cultural notes that actually help
- Tipping is part of the price. Restaurant staff are paid against tips, so 18 to 20 percent is the working norm rather than a bonus.
- Sales tax is added at the till. The shelf price is almost never what you pay, and the rate changes by state and by city.
- Tap water arrives free and full of ice without being asked for. Say so if you want it any other way.
- Lines are policed socially. Cutting one draws comment in a way that jumping a metro barrier does not.
- The drinking age is 21 everywhere and bars card on sight, whatever your age. Carry a passport if you plan to drink.
- Distances are quoted in hours, not miles. When someone says a place is close, ask how long the drive takes.
Famous American faces
Abraham Lincoln
Martin Luther King Jr.
Muhammad Ali
Bob Dylan
Marilyn Monroe
Toni Morrison
Neil Armstrong
Steve Jobs
George Washington
Franklin D. Roosevelt
Rosa Parks
Barack Obama
Louis Armstrong
Aretha Franklin
Johnny Cash
Beyoncé
Meryl Streep
Denzel Washington
Steven Spielberg
Katharine Hepburn
Mark Twain
Ernest Hemingway
Maya Angelou
James Baldwin
Thomas Edison
Katherine Johnson
Richard Feynman
Grace Hopper
Jackie Robinson
Serena Williams
Michael Jordan
Simone Biles
Henry Ford
Walt Disney
Oprah Winfrey
Must-try American food
Cheeseburger
The national default, and the best ones are griddled thin rather than thick.
Hot dog
Steamed or grilled, and dressed differently in every city that claims it.
Buffalo wings
Fried, tossed in cayenne and butter, cooled with blue cheese.
Fried chicken
Brined, floured and fried. The biscuit alongside is not optional.
Mac and cheese
Baked with a crust in the South, stovetop and loose north of it.
Pancakes with maple syrup
The diner breakfast, with the bacon on the same plate.
Biscuits and gravy
Soft biscuits under a peppery pork sausage gravy.
Reuben sandwich
Corned beef, sauerkraut and Swiss, griddled in rye.
Texas brisket
Salt, pepper, post oak smoke and most of a day. Nothing else.
Carolina pulled pork
Whole hog, chopped, dressed in a thin vinegar sauce.
Kansas City ribs
Thick tomato and molasses sauce, caramelised over the fire.
Memphis dry ribs
Rubbed rather than sauced, so the crust does the work.
Santa Maria tri-tip
California's barbecue: beef over red oak, sliced across the grain.
New England clam chowder
Cream, potato and quahog, thick enough to hold a spoon upright.
Gumbo
Dark roux, the holy trinity of onion, celery and pepper, and whatever the season brings.
Philly cheesesteak
Chopped ribeye and melted cheese in a long roll.
Bagel with lox
Boiled then baked, split, and loaded with cream cheese and cured salmon.
Chicago deep-dish pizza
A buttery crust wall, cheese under the sauce, eaten with a fork.
Green chile stew
New Mexico in a bowl. The state question is red or green.
Breakfast tacos
Texas mornings: egg, potato and salsa in a flour tortilla.
Maryland crab cakes
Blue crab, almost no filler, and a heavy hand with Old Bay.
Poke
Hawaii's raw fish bowl, cubed and dressed with soy and sesame.
Apple pie
Double crust and cinnamon, warm, with ice cream if you are doing it properly.
Key lime pie
Florida's tart custard on a graham crust, and never green.
Pecan pie
Southern, sweet, and heavy on the syrup.
New York cheesecake
Dense, plain and baked, with nothing on top.
Cinnamon roll
Enriched dough, brown sugar spiral, cream cheese glaze.
Bottomless filter coffee
The diner pot comes back around before you ask it to.
Sweet tea
Iced, and sugared while still hot. Standard across the South.
Old fashioned
Bourbon or rye, sugar, bitters and one large piece of ice.
Root beer float
Sassafras-flavored soda poured over vanilla ice cream.
Craft IPA
The country has thousands of breweries and this is the flagship style.









