Pick two bases, not five. Mexico City is the opening move, for museums, markets and the best eating in the country, with Teotihuacán and Puebla inside a day trip. Oaxaca is the culture leg: mezcal, weaving, and the cooking everything else gets measured against. The Yucatán closes a first trip with Maya cities, cenotes and reef. Save Baja and the Pacific coast for the second visit. The dry months run November to April.
6 Mexico city guides
Fun fact
Mexico carries 36 UNESCO World Heritage sites, more than any other country in the Americas, and traditional Mexican cuisine holds a listing of its own on the intangible heritage register.
Stereotypes, sorted out
The realitySecurity in Mexico is regional and the map is nothing like the headlines. Yucatán, Quintana Roo, Querétaro, Guanajuato, Oaxaca and Mexico City are among the most travelled places in the Americas. Advisories are written state by state for a reason, and that is how they should be read.
The realityThe burrito is northern border food and barely eaten south of it. What UNESCO listed is the Michoacán and Oaxaca tradition: corn nixtamalised at home, moles built from dozens of ingredients, chocolate and chillies used as seasoning, not as heat.
The realityMexico City sits above 2,200 metres and needs a jacket after dark. San Cristóbal de las Casas is colder again. The heat people picture belongs to the coasts and the Yucatán lowlands, and even there it has a season.
The realityTequila is a mezcal with a region and a rulebook. Mezcal itself is older and drunk far more widely in the south, Michoacán makes charanda, the Yucatán drinks xtabentún, and pulque is having a second life in Mexico City.
Cultural notes that actually help
- Greet the room before you ask for anything. A buenos días to the counter, the shop or the taxi comes first, and skipping it reads as rude.
- Day of the Dead is a family occasion in a cemetery, not a street party. Ask before photographing an altar, and in Oaxaca and Michoacán think twice about the graveyards at night.
- The bill does not arrive until you ask. Catching the waiter's eye for la cuenta is expected, and the tip is left in cash on the table.
- Do not haggle where prices are marked. A craft market is a conversation, but pushing a weaver down on a piece that took weeks is the wrong move.
- Two surnames are normal and neither is a middle name. The first comes from the father, the second from the mother, and official forms will want both.
- Indigenous does not mean historical. Around one in five people identify as indigenous, and the languages, dress and community governance in Oaxaca and Chiapas are living practice.
Famous Mexican faces

Frida Kahlo

Diego Rivera

Sor Juana Inés de la Cruz

Benito Juárez

Emiliano Zapata

Guillermo del Toro

Mario Molina

Alfonso Cuarón

Alejandro González Iñárritu

Salma Hayek

Gael García Bernal

María Félix

Cantinflas

Pedro Infante

Juan Gabriel

Chavela Vargas

José Alfredo Jiménez

Lila Downs

Natalia Lafourcade

Silvestre Revueltas

José Clemente Orozco

David Alfaro Siqueiros

Rufino Tamayo

Luis Barragán

Juan Rulfo

Carlos Fuentes

Elena Poniatowska

Hugo Sánchez

Julio César Chávez

Lorena Ochoa

Ana Guevara

Fernando Valenzuela

Soraya Jiménez

Sergio Pérez

Guillermo González Camarena

Manuel Sandoval Vallarta

Ruy Pérez Tamayo

Lázaro Cárdenas

Pancho Villa

Claudia Sheinbaum

Elvia Carrillo Puerto
Octavio Paz
Emmanuel Lubezki
Carlos Santana
Luis Ernesto Miramontes
Rodolfo Neri Vela
Miguel Hidalgo
Rosario Castellanos
Enrique Olvera
Gabriela Cámara
Elena Reygadas
Ricardo Muñoz Zurita
Abigail Mendoza
Must-try Mexican food

Chiles en nogada
Stuffed poblano chillies under walnut cream and pomegranate, a late summer dish.

Pozole
Hominy and pork stew, dressed at the table with radish, lettuce and lime.

Carnitas
Michoacán pork cooked slowly in its own fat, then chopped to order.

Barbacoa
Lamb wrapped in maguey leaves and cooked in a pit overnight. A Sunday dish.

Chilaquiles
Fried tortilla simmered in green or red salsa, and the breakfast the country argues over.

Tacos al pastor
Pork off a vertical spit with pineapple, a Lebanese technique made entirely Mexican.

Tamales
Corn dough steamed in husk or banana leaf, sweet or savoury, eaten standing up.

Quesadillas
In Mexico City they arrive without cheese unless you ask. Nobody has settled this.

Torta ahogada
Guadalajara's pork roll drowned in chilli sauce, and eaten over the plate.

Gorditas
Thick corn pockets split open on the griddle and stuffed to order.

Tlayuda
A wide tortilla crisped over coals with beans, quesillo and meat, then folded.

Chapulines
Grasshoppers toasted with lime, garlic and chilli, sold by the bag in the market.

Quesillo
Oaxacan string cheese, wound into a ball and unwound in front of you.

Churros con chocolate
Ridged, fried and dipped in chocolate thick enough to stand a spoon in.

Pan de muerto
Orange-scented bread with a bone pattern, in every bakery from October.

Cajeta
Goat's milk caramel from Celaya, spooned over crepes, ice cream and itself.

Mezcal
Agave roasted in a pit, which is where the smoke comes from. Sip it.

Tequila
Blue agave from Jalisco and four neighbouring states, protected by region.
Mole poblano
Chillies, spices and chocolate cooked down for hours, poured over turkey.
Elote and esquites
Corn on the cob or in a cup, with mayonnaise, cheese, chilli and lime.
Mole negro
The deepest of the Oaxacan moles, and the one kept for occasions.
Tejate
A cold maize and cacao drink with a flower foam on top, poured from a gourd.
Cochinita pibil
Pork in achiote and sour orange, cooked underground, served with pickled onion.
Sopa de lima
Turkey broth with lime and crisp tortilla. Sharper and lighter than it sounds.
Papadzules
Egg tacos under a pumpkin seed sauce, a dish older than the Spanish arrival.
Panuchos
Fried tortilla stuffed with bean paste, topped with turkey, onion and habanero.
Queso relleno
Dutch edam hollowed out and filled with spiced pork. The peninsula's oddest classic.
Aguachile
Raw prawns in lime, chilli and cucumber, served the moment it is mixed.
Pescado zarandeado
Whole fish butterflied and grilled over wood on the Pacific coast.
Tacos de pescado
Battered fish, cabbage and crema. Ensenada's export to the rest of the world.
Ceviche sinaloense
Chopped fine, heavy on lime, and eaten on a tostada.
Pulpo en su tinta
Campeche octopus cooked in its own ink, dark and unapologetic.
Flan napolitano
Denser than the Spanish version, and on the menu whether it is listed or not.
Paletas
Fruit ice lollies made with real fruit, perfected in Tocumbo, Michoacán.
Pulque
Fermented agave sap, sour and viscous, and back in fashion in Mexico City.
Michelada
Beer with lime, salt and chilli, and a house version in every bar.
Café de olla
Coffee brewed in a clay pot with cinnamon and unrefined cane sugar.
Horchata
Rice and cinnamon, cold, and the counterweight to a plate of chilli.









