Give a full morning to the Museo Nacional de Antropología
The national anthropology museum is the reason many people fly here, and it deserves the billing. Pedro Ramírez Vázquez finished it in 1964 around a courtyard whose single concrete column holds up an umbrella roof with water falling off its edges, and the ground floor runs the archaeology of Mesoamerica hall by hall: Teotihuacán, Toltec, Mexica, Oaxaca, Gulf Coast, Maya, north and west. The Mexica room holds the Sun Stone, the sixteenth-century monolith that most of the world knows as the Aztec calendar, and the Teotihuacán hall carries a full-scale reproduction of the Temple of Quetzalcóatl facade. The upper floor covers the living indigenous cultures of Mexico, which almost nobody has time for on a first visit. Go early, do the ground floor properly, and accept that you will not see all of it.



