First-timers should pair Tokyo and Kyoto with a day in Osaka or Hakone; repeat visitors trade up for Kanazawa, Naoshima and the Japan Alps. The best windows are late March–April for cherry blossom and October–November for autumn color, both worth booking months ahead.
13 Japanese city guides

Tokyo

Kyoto

Osaka

Sapporo

Kanazawa

Hiroshima

Naoshima

Hakone

Nikko

Nara

Naha

Takayama

Fukuoka
Fun fact
Japan counted 6,852 islands for 36 years, from a 1987 Japan Coast Guard survey. A 2023 recount from digital maps, using the same rule of a natural coastline 100 metres or longer, found 14,125. Nothing rose from the sea: sharper imagery split coastlines that older maps had read as one landmass.
Stereotypes, sorted out
The realityThe flights and the rail are what cost. Eating is some of the best value in any rich country: a bowl of ramen, a set lunch or a convenience-store breakfast runs to a few dollars, and the quality floor is high everywhere.
The realityStations, signage and ticket machines on the main routes are bilingual, and staff at big stations are used to visitors. Conversational English is rarer once you leave the cities, which a translation app handles.
The realityMost of Japan is mountains, rice terraces and small timber towns. Twenty minutes on a local line out of Kyoto puts you in farmland, and two thirds of the land is forested.
The realityVisitors are given wide latitude and nobody expects a bow at the right angle. Two habits cover almost everything: take your shoes off wherever the floor level changes, and keep your voice down on trains.
The realityIt is not an insult, it is simply not done. Leave money on the table and someone will chase you down the street to return it. Service is included in the price and the standard does not move.
Cultural notes that actually help
- Shoes come off wherever the floor level changes: homes, ryokan, temple halls and some restaurants. Slippers are usually waiting.
- Trains are quiet by default. Phone calls are not made on board, and headphones stay low.
- An IC card (Suica in Tokyo, ICOCA in Kansai) taps you through almost every urban train, bus and convenience store. Carry some cash for small towns and shrines.
- At an onsen you wash and rinse at the taps first, then get into the bath with no swimwear. Many baths still turn away visible tattoos, so check before you go.
- Public bins are rare. Carry your rubbish until you find one, usually beside a vending machine or inside a convenience store.
- Stand on the left of an escalator in Tokyo and on the right in Osaka. Getting it wrong is the most visible mistake a visitor makes and the least important.
Famous Japanese faces

Hayao Miyazaki

Akira Kurosawa

Haruki Murakami

Yayoi Kusama

Shohei Ohtani

Ryuichi Sakamoto

Tadao Ando

Toshiro Mifune

Hirokazu Kore-eda

Takeshi Kitano

Ryusuke Hamaguchi

Yasujiro Ozu

Murasaki Shikibu

Sei Shonagon

Yasunari Kawabata

Kenzaburo Oe

Banana Yoshimoto

Utagawa Hiroshige

Takashi Murakami

Yoshitomo Nara

Joe Hisaishi

Hikaru Utada

Seiji Ozawa

Naomi Osaka

Yuzuru Hanyu

Ichiro Suzuki

Hideki Yukawa

Shinya Yamanaka

Katsuko Saruhashi

Issey Miyake

Yohji Yamamoto

Jiro Ono

Nobu Matsuhisa
Katsushika Hokusai
Matsuo Basho
Rei Kawakubo
Must-try Japanese food

Nigiri sushi
Fish on a small press of vinegared rice, eaten in one go, ideally at a counter.

Sashimi
No rice, no cooking, nowhere to hide. The cut matters as much as the fish.

Tempura
Batter thin enough to hear. Order it piece by piece at the counter.

Tonkatsu
Breaded pork cutlet, shredded cabbage, rice. The comfort standard.

Yakitori
Chicken on skewers over charcoal, salted or glazed. Every part of the bird.

Karaage
Marinated fried chicken, crisp and juicy, the default with a beer.

Gyoza
Pan-fried dumplings with a lacy crisp base, best beside a bowl of ramen.

Katsudon
Cutlet, egg and onion simmered over rice. One bowl, no decisions.

Shoyu ramen
The Tokyo original: clear soy-based broth, curled noodles, a slice of pork.

Soba
Buckwheat noodles, hot in broth or cold on a bamboo mat with dipping sauce.

Udon
Thick wheat noodles with a chew. Sanuki udon from Kagawa is the benchmark.

Monjayaki
Tokyo’s looser cousin to okonomiyaki, scraped off the griddle with a tiny spatula.

Chanko nabe
The sumo stable hotpot, eaten in Ryogoku where the wrestlers live.

Okonomiyaki
Osaka’s cabbage-heavy savoury pancake, sauce and bonito flakes on top.

Takoyaki
Octopus batter balls, molten inside. Wait longer than you want to.

Kushikatsu
Deep-fried skewers from Shinsekai. One dip in the shared sauce, never two.

Kaiseki
Kyoto’s seasonal tasting menu, built around what is at its peak this fortnight.

Yudofu
Tofu simmered in hot water, eaten near the temples of northwest Kyoto.

Jingisukan
Sapporo lamb grilled on a domed iron plate, named after Genghis Khan.

Motsunabe
Fukuoka offal hotpot with garlic, chives and cabbage.

Okinawa soba
Wheat noodles in pork broth, topped with stewed belly. Not soba at all.

Hoba miso
Takayama miso and mountain vegetables grilled on a magnolia leaf.

Matcha
Whisked powdered green tea. Uji, south of Kyoto, is where the good leaf grows.

Daifuku
Pounded rice cake around sweet bean paste, sometimes a whole strawberry.

Dorayaki
Two small pancakes with red bean between them.

Taiyaki
Fish-shaped batter cake filled with bean paste or custard, eaten walking.

Kakigori
Shaved ice so fine it collapses. A summer institution, not a snow cone.

Warabimochi
Bracken-starch jelly dusted with roasted soybean flour.

Sake
Brewed from rice. Ask for junmai to taste it dry, and try it cold.

Shochu
Distilled from barley, sweet potato or rice. Kyushu is its heartland.

Umeshu
Green plums steeped in spirit and sugar. Sweet, and dangerous over ice.
Unagi kabayaki
Freshwater eel grilled and lacquered with a sweet soy glaze.
Tonkotsu ramen
Fukuoka style, pork bones boiled to opacity, thin straight noodles.
Miso ramen
Sapporo’s answer to a Hokkaido winter: fat, corn, butter and miso.
Tsukemen
Noodles and broth served apart. The broth is concentrated on purpose.
Tamago sando
Convenience-store egg sandwich on crustless milk bread. Far better than it should be.
Edomae anago
Sea eel from Tokyo Bay, steamed then grilled, softer than unagi.
Obanzai
Kyoto home cooking, small vegetable dishes served side by side.
Kaisendon
Hokkaido seafood bowl: crab, scallop, uni and salmon roe over rice.
Hiroshima okonomiyaki
Built in layers, with a nest of fried noodles inside.
Goya champuru
Okinawan stir-fry of bitter melon, tofu, egg and pork.
Japanese whisky
Built on the Scottish model since the 1920s, now scarce and sought after.
Highball
Whisky and soda, very cold, poured everywhere from izakaya to vending machine.





