Give Prague three or four nights, then get on a train. The capital puts Kutná Hora and its bone chapel, the castle at Karlštejn and the fortress town of Terezín inside a morning, so day trips cost you no hotel change. After that pick a direction. South: Český Krumlov for the river loop and the painted tower, with České Budějovice and the Budvar brewery on the way. West: the spa colonnades of Karlovy Vary and Mariánské Lázně, and Plzeň, where pale lager was invented in 1842. East into Moravia, which behaves like a different country: Brno for functionalist architecture and a student city’s bars, Olomouc for the finest square nobody queues in, Mikulov for wine. May, June and September are the months to aim at.
3 Czechia city guides
Fun fact
Czechia has topped the world table for beer drunk per person for more than thirty consecutive years. The Czech Beer and Malt Association put 2025 at about 121 litres a head, a record low by Czech standards and still comfortably first, and the pale lager most of the world drinks is named after Plzeň.
Stereotypes, sorted out
The realityIt is the country's official short name, the exact equivalent of Česko in Czech, and the government asked the UN to enter it in the UNTERM and UNGEGN name databases in 2016. The Czech Republic remains the formal political name and is used on official occasions. Both are correct, which is why the foreign ministry itself publishes a page on when to use which.
The realityCentral Europe, and the map is blunt about it: Prague sits at 14.4 degrees east, roughly two degrees west of Vienna. The country borders Germany and Austria along most of its edge, it was one of the industrial heartlands of the Habsburg empire, and the architecture is Gothic, Baroque and functionalist rather than anything Soviet planners built.
The realityPrague is one city in a country of ten and a half million people, and the half of it east of the Bohemian highlands is Moravia, with its own dialects, its own wine culture and no interest in being a suburb of the capital. Brno is a student city with a functionalist skyline and a UNESCO-listed villa, Olomouc has the finer main square, and the spa towns in the west are a different world again.
The realityIt is a spit cake with Hungarian and Transylvanian roots and a long tradition in Skalica, just over the Slovak border. It reached Prague's street stalls in the early 2000s as tourist food, and no Czech cookbook printed before then carries it. It is pleasant enough hot. It just is not the national pastry the queue implies.
The realityBoth are Slavic and that is where it stops. Czech is West Slavic, closest to Slovak and Polish, written in the Latin alphabet with the háček and the acute accent that Jan Hus's spelling reform introduced. Assuming otherwise lands badly with anyone who remembers 1968, so it is worth not assuming.
Cultural notes that actually help
- Say dobrý den entering a shop, a lift or a doctor's waiting room, and na shledanou leaving. Skipping it reads as rude in a way that no amount of politeness afterwards repairs.
- Toast with eye contact, say na zdraví, touch glasses with everyone at the table and do not cross arms doing it. Then put the glass down before you drink.
- The pub keeps your tab on a paper slip under the beer mat, and a fresh beer arrives the moment yours is empty. Put the mat on top of the glass when you want the run to stop.
- Validate every tram, bus and metro ticket in the yellow machine as you board. Inspectors are plain-clothed, they are not sympathetic, and the fine is collected on the spot.
- Take your shoes off inside a Czech home. Slippers will be produced, and refusing them is the odd move, not accepting them.
- Change money at a bank or a bank's own ATM, never at a street exchange booth, and always decline the screen offering to charge you in your home currency.
- Voices stay low on public transport and in restaurants, and the seat near the door belongs to whoever needs it more than you do.
Famous Czech faces
Václav Havel
Franz Kafka
Antonín Dvořák
Milan Kundera
Alfons Mucha
Emil Zátopek
Martina Navrátilová
Miloš Forman
Bedřich Smetana
Leoš Janáček
Bohuslav Martinů
Rafael Kubelík
Ema Destinnová
Karel Gott
Věra Čáslavská
Ivan Lendl
Jaromír Jágr
Dominik Hašek
Ester Ledecká
Barbora Krejčíková
Jaroslav Hašek
Karel Čapek
Bohumil Hrabal
Jaroslav Seifert
Jiří Menzel
Jan Švankmajer
Karel Zeman
Zdeněk Miler
Josef Sudek
František Kupka
Jan Kaplický
Eva Jiřičná
Gregor Mendel
Jaroslav Heyrovský
Otto Wichterle
Antonín Holý
Sigmund Freud
Charles IV
Jan Hus
Tomáš Garrigue Masaryk
Milada Horáková
Jan Palach
Must-try Czech food
Svíčková na smetaně
Beef in a sieved root-vegetable cream sauce, with bread dumplings, cranberry and a spoon of whipped cream. The Sunday plate, and the one to judge a kitchen by.
Vepřo knedlo zelo
Roast pork, dumplings and stewed cabbage. If Czechia has a national dish, this is the one people name.
Guláš
Beef goulash, darker and less paprika-forward than the Hungarian original, served with dumplings and raw onion.
Rajská omáčka
Sweet tomato sauce over boiled beef and dumplings. A school-canteen dish nobody grows out of.
Koprová omáčka
Dill cream sauce with beef, boiled egg and potatoes. Divisive, and worth trying anyway.
Kuře na paprice
Chicken braised in paprika cream, the weekday cousin of the goulash.
Pečená kachna
Roast duck with red cabbage and potato dumplings, the autumn and Christmas plate.
Kulajda
Creamy dill and mushroom soup with a poached egg in it. South Bohemian, and the best soup in the country.
Česnečka
Garlic broth with croutons and cheese, ordered the morning after by everyone who needs it.
Bramboračka
Potato soup with wild mushrooms and marjoram, often served in a hollowed loaf.
Hovězí vývar
Clear beef broth with liver dumplings and noodles. The starter that arrives before everything.
Houskový knedlík
The bread dumpling, steamed and sliced. It is cutlery as much as a side: the sauce is the point and this collects it.
Bramborový knedlík
The potato dumpling, denser and greyer, the one that comes with duck and smoked meat.
Bramborák
Potato pancake fried with garlic and marjoram, sold from hatches at markets.
Dušené zelí
Cabbage stewed with caraway and a little sugar, red or white depending on the meat.
Smažený sýr
A slab of Edam crumbed and deep fried, with tartar sauce and chips. Student food, and everywhere.
Utopenec
Sausage pickled with onion in vinegar, literally "the drowned man". A jar on the bar, eaten with dark bread.
Nakládaný hermelín
Soft white cheese marinated in oil with garlic, chilli and peppercorns. The other jar on the bar.
Řízek
Breaded pork or chicken schnitzel with potato salad, and half of the Christmas Eve dinner.
Chlebíčky
Open sandwiches built on potato salad, from a lahůdky delicatessen counter. Lunch standing up.
Klobása
Grilled sausage with mustard and a slice of rye, the market and beer-garden standard.
Ovocné knedlíky
Fruit dumplings under quark, melted butter and sugar. Eaten as a main course, not a dessert.
Medovník
Layered honey cake with sour cream between the sheets. The cake in every café window.
Větrník
A choux ring filled with caramel and vanilla cream. The pastry Czechs argue about ranking.
Koláče
Round yeast pastries with poppy seed, quark or plum jam. Moravian weddings run on them.
Trdelník
The chimney cake on every Prague corner. Hungarian and Slovak in origin, sold here since the 2000s, and not the Czech tradition the queue suggests.
Pilsner-style lager
The pale lager invented in Plzeň in 1842 and copied by the world. Order it by degree: a 10 is lighter, a 12 fuller.
Nefiltrované pivo
Unfiltered, unpasteurised beer poured from a tank. Cloudier, softer, and the reason to drink near a brewery.
Becherovka
Herbal bitter from Karlovy Vary, drunk cold as a digestif or long with tonic.
Slivovice
Plum brandy from Moravia, frequently homemade, and offered at a strength that assumes you are staying.
Moravian white wine
Veltlínské zelené and Ryzlink from the vineyards around Mikulov and Znojmo, mostly drunk before it leaves the country.
Kofola
A herbal cola developed in the 1960s, still on tap in pubs, and the one soft drink with genuine local loyalty.
Svařák
Mulled wine, the fuel of every Advent market and every winter castle courtyard.


