Land in Santiago, then pick one end. North means San Pedro de Atacama: salt flats, geysers at dawn and the clearest night sky most people will ever see. South means Patagonia: fly to Punta Arenas and drive to Torres del Paine through Puerto Natales. In between, Valparaíso is ninety minutes from the capital, and the Lake District around Pucón and Puerto Varas runs volcanoes, forest and hot springs. Patagonia is a summer trip, December to February. The desert works all year.
2 Chile city guides
Fun fact
Chile's parliament does not sit in its capital. The National Congress has met in Valparaíso since 11 March 1990, in a purpose-built complex in the El Almendral district, about 110 kilometres from the government palace in Santiago.
Stereotypes, sorted out
The realityThe desert is the top third. Below it come vineyards, a Mediterranean central valley, temperate rainforest, an archipelago and the ice fields of Patagonia. Few countries change climate this often between one flight and the next.
The realitySantiago to Punta Arenas is a flight of over three hours, and the road south runs out well before the end. Pick one region and give it the time, or fly one leg and drive the other.
The realityIt is not. Chile is the most expensive country in the region, and Patagonia in high season is priced like a European ski resort. Set lunches, buses and local wine are where the value hides.
The realityThis one is half true. The final s disappears, the pace is quick and the slang is dense. Ask people to slow down and they will, and a phrasebook will still not prepare you for cachai.
The realityIt is the headline, not the country. The Atacama has the clearest skies on earth, Chiloé has its own architecture and mythology, and Valparaíso is one of the great port cities of the Pacific.
Cultural notes that actually help
- Greetings are physical. A kiss on the right cheek between women, and between a woman and a man, is standard even on a first meeting.
- Lunch is the main meal and runs long. Dinner is late and often light, and once, the evening bread-and-tea sitting, replaces it entirely in many homes.
- Punctuality is elastic socially and strict professionally. Arrive on time for a meeting and slightly late for a dinner invitation.
- September 18 and the days around it stop the country. Fondas, barbecues and cueca fill the week, and offices, banks and many restaurants close.
- Tremors are part of life and nobody panics. Follow whoever is in the room, and note the evacuation route once when you check in.
- Do not open with a comparison to Peru or Argentina, on pisco, on wine or on football. It is not a conversation, it is a position.
- Bargaining is not a thing in shops or restaurants. Craft markets and the odd taxi are the only places to try it.
Famous Chilean faces

Pablo Neruda

Isabel Allende

Víctor Jara

Michelle Bachelet

Claudio Arrau

Alexis Sánchez

Salvador Allende

Gabriel Boric

Bernardo O'Higgins

Roberto Bolaño

Nicanor Parra

Pablo Neruda

Isabel Allende

Víctor Jara

Claudio Arrau

Mon Laferte

Ana Tijoux

Sebastián Lelio

Pablo Larraín

Alejandro Jodorowsky

Marcelo Ríos

Elías Figueroa

Alexis Sánchez

Humberto Maturana
Gabriela Mistral
Violeta Parra
Gabriela Mistral
Violeta Parra
Pedro Pascal
Roberto Matta
Must-try Chilean food

Empanada de pino
The national baked empanada: beef, onion, hard-boiled egg, an olive and often a raisin.

Pastel de choclo
Beef and onion pino under puréed sweetcorn, baked in clay through the summer.

Cazuela
Clear broth with beef or chicken, potato, pumpkin and a length of corn on the cob.

Porotos granados
Fresh cranberry beans stewed with corn, squash and basil. A summer plate.

Pebre
The table salsa of coriander, onion, tomato and chilli, spooned onto bread.

Caldillo de congrio
Conger eel simmered with potato, tomato and wine. Neruda wrote an ode to it.

Machas a la parmesana
Razor clams baked in their shells with white wine and parmesan, by the dozen.

Curanto
Chiloé's pit feast of shellfish, meat, potato and dumplings steamed under hot stones.

Milcao
A Chiloé potato cake, half grated and half mashed, fried or cooked in the curanto pit.

Barros Luco
Grilled beef and melted cheese in a bun, named after the president who kept ordering it.

Chacarero
Sliced beef with tomato, green beans and chilli. A sandwich that holds a vegetable.

Pisco sour
Pisco, lemon and sugar. Sharper than the Peruvian version, and the argument never ends.

Mote con huesillo
Wheat berries in a cold dried-peach and cinnamon syrup, sold from summer carts.
Charquicán
Squash, potato and dried meat mashed into a soft stew, topped with a fried egg.
Humitas
Ground fresh corn steamed in its own husks, eaten with sugar or with salt.
Chupe de jaiba
Crab, bread and cheese baked in clay until browned. A meal in itself.
Erizos
Raw sea urchin with chopped onion and lemon. Strong, iodine-heavy, a rite of passage.
Cordero al palo
Whole Patagonian lamb splayed on an iron cross over embers. The Magallanes centrepiece.
Merkén
Mapuche blend of smoked cacho de cabra chilli and coriander seed. More smoke than heat.
Kuchen
Lake District fruit tarts of German origin, with murta, raspberry or rhubarb.
Completo
A hot dog under tomato, avocado and a heroic amount of mayonnaise. Order it italiano.
Chorrillana
Chips under beef, onion and fried eggs, shared over beer. Valparaíso claims it, rightly.
Sopaipillas
Fried pumpkin-dough discs, eaten with pebre or in spiced chancaca syrup on wet days.
Terremoto
Young white wine with pineapple ice cream and grenadine, at September fondas.
Carménère
Bordeaux grape thought extinct until found in Chile in 1994. Now the signature red.




