Start in La Paz and give it a slow first day, because the city sits at 3,640 metres and the airport above it is higher still. Then run south for Uyuni and the salt flat, and Potosí for the silver mountain that bankrolled an empire. Sucre is the softer landing, lower and warmer, and the place people stay on to study Spanish. Add Santa Cruz or Rurrenabaque when you want the lowlands. The dry window is May to October; December to April floods the salar into a mirror and makes the roads a gamble.
2 Bolivia city guides
Fun fact
Bolivia has two capitals. Sucre is the constitutional capital and keeps the Supreme Court; La Paz has held the government and the legislature since 1899, after a civil war settled the argument.
Stereotypes, sorted out
The realityThe real risk is petty theft in bus terminals and crowded markets, not violence aimed at travellers. Keep your bag in front of you, use a booked taxi or an app after dark, and the rest is ordinary caution.
The realityIt will shape it, not ruin it. Land, do very little for a day, drink water, eat light and skip the alcohol. Coca tea is what locals reach for, and pharmacies sell altitude tablets over the counter.
The realityThe salar is one stretch of a country that also holds Lake Titicaca, cloud forest, the Amazon basin and vineyards around Tarija grown at some of the highest altitudes anywhere.
The realitySpanish carries you everywhere, but Quechua and Aymara are first languages for millions in the highlands, and the constitution makes them official alongside Spanish and 34 other Indigenous languages.
The realityMarkets, set lunches and long-distance buses are. Uyuni tours, jungle lodges and domestic flights are priced like the logistics they involve, so budget them separately.
Cultural notes that actually help
- Open with buenos días before you ask anything. In a shop, a taxi or an office, it sets the tone of the whole exchange.
- Almuerzo is the main meal, roughly noon to two, and the set menu is the best value of the day.
- Carry small notes. Change for a 100 boliviano bill is hard to find outside the cities.
- Bargain lightly in markets and not at all on food. Those margins are already thin.
- Ask before photographing people, especially cholitas and at festivals. A refusal is common and final.
- Road blockades close highways at short notice. Leave slack on any day that ends with a flight.
- Sundays empty the cities. Plan a market and a long lunch, and leave shops and offices for the week.
Famous Bolivian faces

Evo Morales

Juana Azurduy de Padilla

Simón Iturri Patiño

Jaime Escalante

Adela Zamudio

Marco Etcheverry

Luzmila Carpio

Evo Morales

Víctor Paz Estenssoro

Juana Azurduy de Padilla

Simón Iturri Patiño

Adela Zamudio

Alcides Arguedas

Jaime Saenz

Edmundo Paz Soldán

Luzmila Carpio

Marco Etcheverry

Marcelo Martins Moreno

Jaime Escalante
Marina Núñez del Prado
Gonzalo Hermosa González
Marina Núñez del Prado
Must-try Bolivian food

Silpancho
Cochabamba’s plate. Thin fried beef over rice and potatoes, topped with a fried egg.

Pique macho
Shared platter of beef, sausage, chips and locoto chilli, invented in Cochabamba in 1969.

Sopa de maní
Peanut soup with beef, pasta and fried potato. The highland lunch staple.

Llajua
The sauce on every table: locoto chillies and tomato, ground fresh. Add it to everything.

Charquekán
Oruro’s plate. Dried salted llama or beef, grilled, with corn, potato and cheese.

Cuñapé
Warm cassava-flour rolls with fresh Santa Cruz cheese, best straight from the oven.

Singani
The national spirit, from Muscat of Alexandria grapes grown only in the high valleys.
Salteña
The national snack. Baked pastry of stewed meat, potato and broth, eaten before noon.
Anticuchos
Marinated beef heart grilled on skewers over charcoal, with potato and peanut llajua.
Chairo
Aymara soup of freeze-dried potato, lamb and vegetables, from the La Paz altiplano.
Fricasé
Pork stewed with yellow chilli and hominy, served scalding on cold altiplano mornings.
Plato paceño
Corn, potato, broad beans and fried cheese, for La Paz’s festivals in July and October.
Trucha del Titicaca
Lake trout, grilled or fried, eaten on the shore at Copacabana.
Majadito
Santa Cruz rice cooked with charque or duck, under a fried egg and sweet plantain.
Sonso de yuca
Mashed cassava and cheese, skewered and grilled. The lowland snack.
Tucumana
The fried cousin of the salteña, filled with meat, potato and pepper, under table sauces.
Api con pastel
Market breakfast. Thick spiced purple corn drink with a sugared fried pastry.
Humintas
Fresh corn dough with cheese and spices, steamed or baked in its own husk.
Chicha
Fermented Indigenous corn drink, older than the Spanish. Cochabamba is its heartland.
Mocochinchi
Dried peach simmered with sugar and cinnamon, sold cold from glass barrels on the street.





