Buy the national park ticket first, then give the moai a day on each coast: sunrise at Ahu Tongariki and the quarry at Rano Raraku in the east, Orongo's crater rim and the stonework of Vinapu in the south. Spend an afternoon swimming at Anakena below Ahu Nau Nau, see the Englert museum before you start, and end each evening at Ahu Tahai for the sunset. Hire a car; the town itself is all on foot.
Hanga Roa is the only town on Easter Island, a low, walkable strip of guesthouses and fish restaurants on the west coast of Rapa Nui, about 3,700 km off mainland Chile. Every moai, crater and beach is a short drive from here, so this is where you sleep, eat and plan the island.
Fifteen moai stand on the island's largest ahu, scattered by the 1960 tsunami and raised again in the 1990s with a crane from Japan's Tadano. Arrive before dawn: the sun comes up behind them, and the site opens early for it.
Nearly every moai was carved from this crater's tuff, and close to 400 remain on its slopes, many buried to the chest, one unfinished at about 21 m. The ticket allows a single entry, so give it a full morning.
The stone houses of the Birdman cult sit on a knife edge between a reed-filled crater lake and sheer sea cliffs, with Motu Nui offshore. Petroglyphs of the birdman cover the rocks at the tip; this is a single-entry site too.
Three ahu on the north edge of town, among them Ko Te Riku, the one moai with restored eyes of white coral. The sun sets behind them over open ocean, a 15-minute walk from the centre.
The island's main white-sand beach, under coconut palms, with the seven moai of Ahu Nau Nau behind it, four wearing red pukao. Oral tradition puts the landing of Hotu Matu'a here; food stalls run along the edge of the sand.
Seven moai inland on the slope of Terevaka face the sea, the exception on an island whose statues look inland. Tradition ties them to the seven scouts Hotu Matu'a sent ahead, and they face the equinox sunset.
The anthropological museum at Tahai holds a white coral moai eye found at Anakena in 1978 and a rare female moai. Admission is free, and an hour here makes every site afterwards easier to read.
The island's highest point, about 507 m, is a grassy half-day climb from near Ahu Akivi, and the one place to see the whole coastline at once. There is no shade or water on the way, so carry both.
The water off the harbour is famously clear, and the bay's easy dive passes a replica moai sunk about 20 m down. Dive centres on the caleta run short guided dives; leave a day free before your flight home.
Mass is said in Spanish but the hymns are sung in Rapa Nui, and the church's wood carvings fold island motifs into the Catholic story. Sit at the back, and walk across to the craft market afterwards.
Paro, the largest moai ever raised, about 10 m, lies face down beside a smooth round stone.
Basalt blocks fitted as tightly as Inca masonry, with toppled moai, at the end of the runway.
A lone inland moai with four hands, thought to be aligned on the winter solstice sunrise.
Toppled moai and the foundations of a south-coast village; tradition puts Hotu Matu'a's grave here.
A sea cave below the Rano Kau road with seabirds painted in red and white on its ceiling.
Flat basalt carved with canoes, fish hooks and a large tuna, beside the north coast road.
Pink-tinged sand under a cliff near Anakena; strong currents and no lifeguard, so swim with care.
On the point of the caleta, with a chalkboard of the day's catch and waves breaking below.
The island's longest-running dance company, on Atamu Tekena; expect to be pulled on stage.
The craft market across from Holy Cross, built in the 1970s with Tapati funds, for wood carving.
The produce and craft fair on Atamu Tekena, where islanders sell fruit, fish and carvings.
A marked trail of about 1.8 km climbs 230 m from the edge of town to the crater rim.
The island's oldest volcano, a long day on the empty east end, best walked with a guide.
A coastal walk from Tahai to the cave of two windows, which opens onto the sea cliffs.
Lessons from the cove of Hanga Roa, using the gentle waves at Pea for beginners.
An exposed south-coast reef break with urchins, rips and rocks, for experienced surfers only.
The Birdman islet off Orongo, a dive for certified divers booked through the town's dive centres.
Two weeks of island-wide contests in dance, song, canoeing and body painting, held since 1969.
Tapati's famous race: young men slide down Maunga Pu'i on banana-trunk sleds.
Easter week services at Holy Cross, with hymns sung in Rapa Nui.
Full, half and 10 km races run across the island's roads.
Chile's public holiday for its Indigenous peoples, held on the winter solstice.
Chile's national holidays; expect closures, including the museum.
Rapa Nui language day, with schools and groups performing song and dance in the language.
Christmas Mass in the island's church, sung in Rapa Nui.
On the southern edge of town, with LATAM the only airline flying to Santiago, about five hours. Many lodgings include the airport pickup.
Every visitor files the online Formulario Único de Ingreso before flying. Stays are capped at 30 days and need a return ticket and registered lodging.
Local firms on Atamu Tekena rent cars and scooters; no international chains operate. Book ahead and check what cover the contract includes.
White licensed taxis cover town and the airport. Informal minibuses run without timetables, so tours or a hire car are the way to reach the sites.
Meat, fish, sweet potato and taro cooked under banana leaves in an earth oven, the feast meal.
Fish cooked on hot stones over a fire, the old shoreline way.
A dense pudding of banana, pumpkin or taro with flour, baked in banana leaves.
Yellowfin tuna cured in lime, the island's everyday order.
Fried pastries filled with local tuna, Hanga Roa's quick lunch.
Sierra, a firm local fish, grilled or fried at the caleta.
Rapa Nui lobster, the splurge on a seafood menu.
Sweet potato, the island's old staple, roasted in the umu or served on the side.
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