Start in Buenos Aires and give it four or five days: the city is the trip, not the stopover before it. After that the country splits three ways. Patagonia for glaciers, granite spires and the end of the road, workable from November to March. Mendoza and the Andes for wine, altitude and long afternoons. The northwest around Salta for red rock, high desert and the oldest cooking in the country. Fly between them: the distances are continental, and the domestic network exists for exactly this.
5 Argentina city guides
Fun fact
At 6,961 metres, Cerro Aconcagua in Mendoza province is the highest mountain outside Asia, and the highest point in both the Southern and Western hemispheres.
Stereotypes, sorted out
The realityTango is a Buenos Aires art form with a devoted following, not a national pastime. Most Argentines have never taken a class. Go to a milonga anyway: the ones locals use start late and welcome beginners at the edges of the floor.
The realityThe parrilla is real and it is very good, but the Italian half of the country is just as visible. Pizza and pasta are everyday food, the northwest cooks with corn, chilli and llama, and Patagonia runs on lamb and trout.
The realityThe capital holds a third of the population and almost none of the landscape. Iguazú is subtropical, Salta is high desert, Mendoza is Mediterranean, and Ushuaia sits closer to Antarctica than to the city everyone flies into.
The realityThe waves of Italian and Spanish migration shaped the accent, the surnames and the dinner hour, but Andean, Guaraní and Afro-Argentine culture run underneath the whole northern half of the country.
Cultural notes that actually help
- Dinner is late. Kitchens fill around nine or ten, and booking for eight means eating alone in an empty room.
- Mate is shared by a set ritual. The person who brews it refills and hands over the gourd each time, and you drink the whole thing before giving it back. Do not rearrange the straw.
- Greet with one kiss on the right cheek, men included, on arrival and again on leaving. Skipping it reads as cold.
- Tips are cash. Card tips rarely reach the person who served you, so keep small notes for restaurants, taxis and hotel staff.
- The cubierto on your bill is a cover charge for bread and table service. It is not a service charge and does not replace the tip.
- Lunch runs long and shops in smaller towns still close for the afternoon. Plan errands for the morning or the early evening.
Famous Argentine faces

Lionel Messi

Diego Maradona

Eva Perón

Jorge Luis Borges

Pope Francis

Che Guevara

Astor Piazzolla

Juan Manuel Fangio

José de San Martín

Manuel Belgrano

Juan Domingo Perón

Domingo Faustino Sarmiento

Carlos Gardel

Mercedes Sosa

Gustavo Cerati

Martha Argerich

Ricardo Darín

Lucrecia Martel

Norma Aleandro

Quino

Adolfo Bioy Casares

Luis Federico Leloir

René Favaloro

Gabriela Sabatini

Guillermo Vilas

Manu Ginóbili

Juan Martín del Potro
Lalo Schifrin
Juan José Campanella
Julio Cortázar
Ernesto Sabato
Bernardo Houssay
César Milstein
Must-try Argentine food

Asado
The long Sunday grill over embers, served in courses. As much a schedule as a meal.

Chimichurri
Parsley, garlic, oregano, vinegar and oil. The only sauce the meat needs.

Provoleta
A disc of provolone grilled until it crusts and slumps, dusted with oregano.

Morcilla and chorizo
The first course off the parrilla, eaten while the beef takes its time.

Choripán
Split chorizo in a crusty roll with chimichurri. Football food and street food everywhere.

Empanadas
Baked in Salta, fried in Tucumán, and argued over in every province.

Milanesa napolitana
Breaded steak under ham, tomato and melted cheese. Italian Argentina on one plate.

Locro
Hominy, beans, squash and slow-cooked meat. The national stew of patriotic holidays.

Dulce de leche
Slow-caramelised milk. The default filling for almost every sweet below.

Alfajores
Two soft biscuits, dulce de leche between them, chocolate or coconut around the edge.

Helado
Italian in technique and dense in texture. Order the dulce de leche granizado.

Fernet con coca
Bitter Italian amaro and cola over ice. Córdoba's contribution to the national night out.

Submarino
A bar of chocolate dropped into hot milk and stirred until it goes.
Bife de chorizo
The sirloin cut the country is built on, thick and cooked past rare by default.
Fugazzeta
Buenos Aires pizza: a deep cheese-stuffed base buried under sweet onion.
Sándwich de miga
Crustless white bread, ham and cheese, cut into triangles. Afternoon food.
Humita
Fresh corn ground with onion and cheese, steamed in its own husk.
Tamales salteños
Northwestern corn parcels, denser and spicier than their Mexican cousins.
Cordero patagónico
Whole lamb splayed on an iron cross and cooked beside the fire for hours.
Trucha del sur
Andean lake trout, usually grilled and left alone.
Medialunas
Small, glazed and sweeter than a croissant. Breakfast, with coffee, standing up.
Facturas
The bakery tray of pastries, bought by the dozen and shared at work.
Mate
Bitter yerba drunk through a metal straw and shared from one gourd.
Malbec
The grape Mendoza rescued from obscurity, grown high and picked ripe.
Torrontés
The white of the northwest: floral on the nose, dry on the finish.










