First trips run the west coast. Give Taipei three or four days, then take the high-speed line south to Tainan for the old capital and Kaohsiung for the harbour, with Taichung as the way into the lake and mountain country behind it. Repeat visitors cross to the east, where Hualien and Taitung trade cities for marble gorge, rice terraces and the Pacific. The clearest weather is October and November, with March a close second.
2 Taiwan city guides
Fun fact
Taiwan has 268 peaks above 3,000 metres. The highest, Yushan, reaches 3,952 metres, which puts it above anything in Japan or Korea.
Stereotypes, sorted out
The realityTaiwan elects its own government, prints its own currency and issues its own passport. What you meet on the ground is a blend: Hokkien and Hakka roots, sixteen officially recognised indigenous peoples, and fifty years of Japanese rule that still shows in the railway stations, the hot springs and the food.
The realityThe night markets are worth the hype and they are also the easy half. Two thirds of the island is mountain, with 268 peaks above 3,000 metres and a marble gorge cut into the east coast.
The realitySignage and announcements on the metro and the high-speed rail are bilingual, and one EasyCard covers metro, buses and local trains island-wide. Station staff in the big cities usually have some English.
The realityStorms cluster between July and October and are tracked days ahead by the Central Weather Administration. Travel in November, or between March and May, and a typhoon is rare.
Cultural notes that actually help
- Queues are real. People line up for the metro doors, the bus and the bubble tea, and cutting in gets noticed.
- No eating or drinking on the Taipei metro, water included. The rule is signed and enforced.
- Tipping is not expected. Some restaurants add a 10% service charge and that is the end of it.
- Shoes come off at the door of a home, a homestay and the inner hall of many temples.
- Convenience stores are infrastructure here: tickets, parcels, bill payments, hot food and a clean toilet.
- Pass a business card or money with two hands. It reads as respect and costs nothing.
Famous Taiwanese faces
Tsai Ing-wen
Ang Lee
Teresa Teng
Jay Chou
Morris Chang
Yuan T. Lee
Tai Tzu-ying
Lee Teng-hui
Lai Ching-te
Chen Shui-bian
Audrey Tang
Chiang Kai-shek
Hou Hsiao-hsien
Edward Yang
Tsai Ming-liang
Shu Qi
A-Mei (Chang Hui-mei)
Jolin Tsai
Mayday
Lo Ta-yu
Kuo Hsing-chun
Lee Chih-kai
Wang Chien-ming
Chen Wei-yin
Terry Gou
Cher Wang
Jensen Huang
Barry Lam
Lin Hwai-min
Ju Ming
Chen Cheng-po
Wu Pao-chun
Fu Pei-mei
André Chiang
Must-try Taiwanese food
Beef noodle soup
The national dish: braised shank in a dark, star-anise broth.
Lu rou fan
Minced fatty pork stewed in soy over rice. The cheapest good meal on the island.
Three-cup chicken
Chicken simmered in sesame oil, rice wine and soy, finished with basil.
Gua bao
A steamed bun folded around pork belly, pickled mustard greens and peanut powder.
Xiaolongbao
Soup dumplings, and the reason people queue in Taipei.
Stinky tofu
Fermented, then fried or braised. The smell travels further than the taste.
Oyster omelette
Small oysters in a sweet-potato-starch batter under a sweet chilli sauce.
Fried chicken cutlet
Pounded flat, fried, dusted with pepper and handed over in a paper bag.
Popcorn chicken
Salt-and-pepper bites fried with a handful of basil leaves.
Pepper bun
A peppery pork bun baked against the wall of a clay oven.
Scallion pancake
Layered, blistered on the griddle and folded around an egg.
Danzai noodles
Tainan's small bowl of noodles with minced pork and a single shrimp.
Coffin bread
Thick toast hollowed out and filled with a creamy chowder, also Tainan.
Ba-wan
A translucent starch dumpling filled with pork and bamboo shoot, from Changhua.
Hakka lei cha
Ground tea, seeds and nuts poured over rice and vegetables in Hakka country.
Sun cake
Taichung's flaky pastry around a thin malt-sugar centre.
Milkfish congee
A Tainan breakfast: milkfish belly in rice porridge.
Grilled squid
Whole squid off the charcoal, brushed with soy and garlic.
Shrimp rolls
Deep-fried rolls of minced shrimp and pork, best near the coast.
Fish ball soup
Bouncy fish balls in a clear broth, a Keelung staple.
Mango shaved ice
Summer's answer: shaved ice, fresh mango and condensed milk.
Pineapple cake
A short, buttery pastry around candied pineapple. The souvenir everyone brings home.
Aiyu jelly
A fig-seed jelly served cold with lemon.
Douhua
Soft tofu pudding with peanuts, taro or syrup.
Bubble tea
Invented here. Tapioca pearls, tea and milk, sweetness to order.
High-mountain oolong
Grown above 1,000 metres and brewed cup by cup.
Taiwan Beer
The lager on every night-market table.
Winter melon tea
Sweet, faintly caramelly, served over ice.




