A first trip is Madrid and Barcelona with the AVE between them, then one region chosen properly: Andalusia for Seville, Granada and the Moorish south, or the Basque coast for San Sebastián and Bilbao. Repeat visitors trade up for Galicia, Asturias and the Castilian cathedral towns. The best windows are April to June and September to October, warm enough for the coast and bearable inland.
6 Spain city guides
Fun fact
Spain runs the longest high-speed rail network in Europe, close to 4,000 kilometres of it, and the second longest anywhere after China.
Stereotypes, sorted out
The realityShops in small towns still shut through the hottest hours, but a Madrid office worker is not asleep at three. The long midday break exists because the working day runs late, not because the country naps.
The realityPaella is Valencian, eaten at lunch rather than dinner, and sangría is mostly poured for tourists. What Spaniards actually order is vermut before lunch, wine with it, and whatever the region cures, grills or fries.
The realityFlamenco is Andalusian, grown out of the Roma communities of Seville, Jerez and Cádiz. Galicia has bagpipes, Catalonia has the sardana, and the Basque Country has its own dances entirely.
The realityCastilian is the state language, but Catalan, Basque and Galician are co-official where they are spoken, and Basque is related to no other language in Europe. Regional identity here is the main event, not a footnote.
The realityThe Canary Islands outlawed it in 1991 under an animal protection law and no bullfight has been held there since. Interest varies enormously by region, and plenty of Spaniards have never been to one.
Cultural notes that actually help
- Dinner starts late. Kitchens fill from nine, and a restaurant empty at seven is not a bad restaurant.
- Lunch is the big meal, roughly two to four, and the menú del día is the best value on any menu.
- Tipping is light. Round up or leave the coins; there is no percentage convention to follow.
- Learn which language you are standing in. A greeting in Catalan, Basque or Galician lands well in those regions.
- In a tapas bar you order at the counter and stand. Waiting to be seated can mean waiting a long time.
- Sunday is for the long family lunch. Many shops close, so plan markets in the morning and museums after.
Famous Spanish faces
Miguel de Cervantes
Pablo Picasso
Antoni Gaudí
Salvador Dalí
Santiago Ramón y Cajal
Rafael Nadal
Pedro Almodóvar
Penélope Cruz
Diego Velázquez
Francisco de Goya
El Greco
Joan Miró
Joaquín Sorolla
Santiago Calatrava
Luis Buñuel
Javier Bardem
Antonio Banderas
Carlos Saura
Paco de Lucía
Andrés Segovia
Montserrat Caballé
Manuel de Falla
Rosalía
Federico García Lorca
Lope de Vega
Camilo José Cela
Antonio Machado
Andrés Iniesta
Miguel Indurain
Pau Gasol
Carlos Alcaraz
Garbiñe Muguruza
Juan Sebastián Elcano
Severo Ochoa
Margarita Salas
Ferran Adrià
Juan Mari Arzak
Carme Ruscalleda
José Andrés
Must-try Spanish food
Tortilla española
Potato and egg omelette, argued over endlessly for whether onion belongs.
Jamón ibérico
Acorn-fed ham cured for years and carved by hand into near-translucent sheets.
Gazpacho
Cold tomato and cucumber soup, drunk as much as eaten through the summer.
Cocido madrileño
Madrid’s chickpea stew, served in courses from broth to meat.
Croquetas
Béchamel fried in breadcrumbs, usually with ham or salt cod inside.
Pisto
Slow-cooked peppers, tomato and courgette, often with an egg broken over it.
Fabada asturiana
Asturian bean stew with chorizo and morcilla, built for a cold day.
Patatas bravas
Fried potato under a paprika sauce that should carry real heat.
Gambas al ajillo
Prawns in bubbling garlic oil, and bread to finish the oil with.
Pimientos de Padrón
Blistered green peppers from Galicia. Roughly one in ten is hot.
Boquerones en vinagre
White anchovies cured in vinegar and garlic, served cold.
Ensaladilla rusa
Potato, tuna and mayonnaise salad, a bar staple judged on its texture.
Pintxos
The Basque counter format: single bites on bread, paid for at the end.
Bocadillo de calamares
Madrid’s fried squid sandwich, eaten standing near Plaza Mayor.
Paella valenciana
The original: rabbit, chicken and beans, not seafood, cooked over wood.
Arroz negro
Rice blackened with squid ink and served with alioli.
Fideuà
The Valencian coast’s answer to paella, made with short noodles instead of rice.
Arroz a banda
Rice cooked in fish stock, with the fish itself brought out separately.
Arroz con bogavante
Soupier rice with lobster, a Sunday dish on the northern coast.
Pulpo a la gallega
Octopus on potato with paprika and olive oil, cut with scissors at the table.
Bacalao al pil-pil
Salt cod emulsified into its own garlic oil by nothing but movement.
Percebes
Goose barnacles pulled off Atlantic rocks at some risk, and priced accordingly.
Almejas a la marinera
Clams in white wine, garlic and parsley.
Calamares a la romana
Squid rings in a light batter, with lemon and nothing else.
Cochinillo asado
Segovia’s wood-roasted suckling pig, carved with the edge of a plate.
Chuletón
Aged bone-in beef chop, grilled hard outside and left rare within.
Lechazo
Milk-fed lamb roasted in a clay oven, the Castilian counterpart to cochinillo.
Morcilla de Burgos
Blood sausage bulked with rice, fried until the edges crisp.
Callos a la madrileña
Tripe stewed with chorizo and paprika, a winter Madrid classic.
Marmitako
Basque tuna and potato stew, born on the fishing boats.
Bacalao a la vizcaína
Salt cod in a sauce of dried choricero peppers, not tomato.
Txangurro
Spider crab baked in its own shell, a San Sebastián fixture.
Cachopo
Asturian breaded veal folded around ham and cheese, sized to share.
Empanada gallega
Flat Galician pie, usually tuna or cockles, sold by the slice.
Salmorejo
Córdoba’s thicker cousin to gazpacho, topped with ham and egg.
Pescaíto frito
Small fish floured and flash-fried, eaten by the paper cone in Málaga.
Rabo de toro
Oxtail braised until it falls apart, most associated with Córdoba.
Espinacas con garbanzos
Seville’s spinach and chickpeas with cumin, a Moorish inheritance.
Espetos de sardinas
Sardines skewered on cane and grilled over a beach fire on the Costa del Sol.
Churros con chocolate
Fried dough into thick drinking chocolate, at breakfast or at 4am.
Crema catalana
Citrus and cinnamon custard under a burnt sugar crust.
Tarta de Santiago
Galician almond cake stencilled with the cross of Saint James.
Turrón
Almond nougat from Jijona and Alicante, eaten hard or soft at Christmas.
Torrijas
Bread soaked in milk and fried, the Spanish Easter sweet.
Rioja
Tempranillo aged in oak, and the reference point for Spanish red.
Cava
Traditional-method sparkling wine, most of it made in Penedès.
Sherry
Fortified wine from the Jerez triangle, dry fino through sweet Pedro Ximénez.
Vermut
The pre-lunch ritual: vermouth on ice with an olive, usually on a Sunday.
Sidra asturiana
Still cider poured from height to aerate it, a glassful at a time.
Horchata
Valencian tiger nut drink, served cold with fartons to dip.







