Land at Basseterre and decide the split. Saint Kitts holds the set pieces: Brimstone Hill Fortress, UNESCO-listed since 1999, the crater climb up Mount Liamuiga, the scenic railway on the old cane line, and Romney Manor. Frigate Bay on the South East Peninsula has the hotels and beach bars. Nevis is the quiet half: one volcano, Nevis Peak, a ring road, plantation inns, Pinney's Beach and Hamilton's Charlestown. Ferries cross in under an hour. A week does both islands.
1 Saint Kitts and Nevis city guide
Fun fact
Saint Kitts and Nevis invented citizenship by investment. Its Citizenship Act of 1984 created the first programme of its kind, and every scheme since copies it. The author of the template is the smallest sovereign state in the Western Hemisphere: 261 square kilometres, about 51,000 people.
Stereotypes, sorted out
The realityTwo islands, two administrations, two holidays. Nevis has its own premier, assembly and airport, hillside plantation inns and a Charlestown that closes early. Saint Kitts has the cruise berth, the fortress, the railway and the nightlife. Treat Nevis as an afternoon and you get a pier. Sleep there.
The realityBasseterre is busy on a ship day, but the country empties fast. Brimstone Hill is an artillery complex that took over a century to build, Mount Liamuiga is a four to five hour climb with rope work near the top, and the windward side of Saint Kitts sees almost nobody. Nevis has no cruise berth.
The realityIt is the actual line: 762 millimetre narrow gauge, laid between 1912 and 1926 to carry cane to the Basseterre mill and worked until the industry closed in 2005. Passenger excursions began in January 2003, while the cane trains still ran, and that kept the track alive.
The realityThe top end is expensive, set by the plantation inns and the one large resort on Nevis. The same islands run guesthouses, route minibuses, beach bars serving a plate of the day, and a public ferry between the capitals. Both versions sit on the same road.
The realityHe was born in Charlestown in 1757, the only US founding father born in the Caribbean, and the site held the Museum of Nevis History long before Broadway. The building is a 1983 reconstruction of the destroyed original. The musical lengthened the queue and left the history alone.
How to behave once you land
- Beachwear stays at the beach. Basseterre and Charlestown are working towns and people dress for them, including in shops and government offices.
- Greet before you ask. Good morning or good afternoon comes first in a shop, a minibus or an office, and going straight to the question reads as rude.
- Traffic keeps left and your own licence is not enough on its own. A temporary local driving permit is issued at the rental desk, usually in minutes.
- Sunday is quiet. Church takes the morning, much of the retail stays shut, and on Nevis the whole island slows down.
- The monkeys are not a mascot. Green vervets have been on Saint Kitts since the seventeenth century, farmers treat them as a pest, and feeding them is discouraged.
- Kittitian and Nevisian are two identities, not one. The federation's politics turns on that distinction, and it is worth hearing out.
Famous Kittitian and Nevisian faces

Kim Collins

Simeon Daniel

Vance Amory

Caryl Phillips
Alexander Hamilton
Joan Armatrading
Robert Llewellyn Bradshaw
Sir Kennedy Simmonds
Denzil Douglas
Terrance Drew
Sir Clement Arrindell
Elquemedo Willett
Keith Arthurton
Stuart Williams
Runako Morton
Kenrick Georges
Frances Nisbet
Must-try Kittitian and Nevisian food
Stewed saltfish with spicy plantains and coconut dumplings
National dish since 2003. Salt cod, peppered plantain, coconut dumplings and breadfruit.
Goat water
Goat stewed in water with breadfruit, papaya, dumplings and pepper. The fete dish.
Pelau
Rice and pigeon peas browned in sugar, cooked in one pot with chicken. Cook-up elsewhere.
Souse
Cooked pork steeped in lime, vinegar, cucumber and pepper. A weekend dish.
Black pudding
Seasoned pig's blood and rice in a casing, sliced hot. A Saturday morning institution.
Conch fritters
Chopped conch in spiced batter, deep-fried. The default beach bar order.
Grilled spiny lobster
Spiny lobster grilled over coals. A closed season applies, so ask about it out of season.
Saltfish and johnnycake
Salt cod flaked with onion, tomato and pepper, with fried bread. The local breakfast.
Johnnycake
Fried bread, no cake about it, served with almost everything. Split it hot.
Roast breadfruit
Roasted whole over coals until black, then sliced. Part of the national dish.
Ground provisions
Yam, dasheen, sweet potato and green banana, boiled. The base of the plate.
Sugar cake
Grated coconut boiled with sugar and spice into chewy squares, often pink.
Tamarind balls
Tamarind pulp rolled in sugar, sour and sweet. The easiest thing to carry home.
Ting with a sting
Grapefruit soda with a shot of CSR. The federation's house drink.
CSR (Cane Spirit Rothschild)
Clear Saint Kitts spirit distilled from fresh cane juice. Served cold and mixed.
