Most trips start in Luang Prabang, and it is worth three nights rather than two: the temple peninsula between the Mekong and the Nam Khan, the morning market, and the waterfalls out at Kuang Si. From there the country runs north and south. North is the mountain half, with Nong Khiaw on its limestone bend of the Nam Ou and the trekking country around Luang Namtha. South is the river half: Vang Vieng and its karst towers, Vientiane in the middle, and then the long Mekong run past Thakhek and Savannakhet to Pakse, the Bolaven coffee highlands, the Khmer temple at Champasak, and the river islands at Don Det. The Plain of Jars at Phonsavan is the detour east that most itineraries skip and should not. November through February is the window when the rains have gone and the north is cool after dark.
2 Laos city guides
Fun fact
The Mekong runs roughly 1,900 kilometres through Laos, more of the river than any other country carries, and forms much of the border with Thailand before crossing into Cambodia. Laos is the only country in Southeast Asia with no coastline.
Stereotypes, sorted out
The realityIt is its own country with its own history, and Lan Xang, the kingdom of a million elephants, was founded in 1353 and held the middle Mekong for three and a half centuries. The language is close to Thai and the script is its own. Then a French protectorate layered a second architecture over the top, which is why a Lao provincial capital can have a Buddhist wat, a colonial shophouse and a baguette stand on the same block.
The realityLaos holds four UNESCO World Heritage sites. The town of Luang Prabang was listed in 1995, the Khmer temple complex at Vat Phou in 2001, the Iron Age stone jars of Xiangkhouang in 2019, and Hin Nam No National Park in 2025, the country’s first natural listing and part of the first transboundary natural site in the Mekong region. The hammock is available. It is not the itinerary.
The realityBetween 1964 and 1973 more than two million tonnes of ordnance were dropped on Laos, which makes it the most heavily bombed country per head in history. Around a third of the cluster submunitions failed to detonate, and tens of thousands of people have been killed or injured by them since. Clearance is measured in decades, not years. This is why the advice about staying on marked paths is not boilerplate.
The realityThe riverside bars were shut down in 2012 after a run of deaths, and the swings and zip lines came down with them. What replaced it is a climbing, kayaking, caving and hot-air-ballooning town under some of the best limestone in Southeast Asia. Tubing came back, regulated. The reputation is a decade out of date and the karst was always the reason to stop.
The realityLaos is a long, mountainous strip and the roads know it. The railway put Vientiane, Vang Vieng and Luang Prabang within a couple of hours of each other, which is genuinely transformative, but it covers one corridor. Getting to the Plain of Jars, the Bolaven Plateau or the Mekong islands still means a full day of travel each way, and that is the country most visitors never reach.
Cultural notes that actually help
- Greet with a nop, palms together at chest height, and a small bow. It is offered to elders and to monks first, and a handshake is fine in business. Returning it matters more than getting the height exactly right.
- Monks are not to be touched by women, and that includes handing something over directly: put it down and let it be picked up. At the dawn alms round in Luang Prabang, watch from across the street, stay quiet, and do not use a flash. If you are not giving, do not stand in the line.
- The head is high and the feet are low, in the literal and the social sense. Do not touch an adult’s head, do not point your feet at a person or at a Buddha image, and tuck them behind you when you sit in a temple.
- Shoes come off at temple buildings and at the door of a home, and often at a guesthouse. Shoulders and knees stay covered in a wat, for everyone, and a sarong at the entrance is a loan rather than a suggestion.
- Sticky rice is eaten by hand, from the shared basket, and you take a small ball and dip. Put the lid back on the basket when the meal ends. It is a small courtesy and it is noticed.
- Baw pen nyang, roughly no problem, is the working temperature of the place. Raising your voice to fix something loses face for both sides and gets you nothing. Patience is a technique here, not a virtue.
- This is a one-party state and the etiquette follows. Do not photograph military sites or personnel, do not push political conversation on people who have to live with the answer, and treat the flag and the national symbols as you would a temple.
Famous Lao faces
Fa Ngum
Setthathirath
Anouvong
Kaysone Phomvihane
Mattie Do
Marisa Darasavath
Outhine Bounyavong
Alexandra Bounxouei
Souphanouvong
Souvanna Phouma
Sisavang Vong
Phoumi Vongvichit
Douangdeuane Bounyavong
Dara Kanlaya
Daoviang Butnakho
Sunisa Lee
Bryan Thao Worra
Khamvong Insixiengmai
Bounxeung Synanonh
Must-try Lao food
Khao niaw
Sticky rice, steamed over water in a bamboo basket rather than boiled. Eaten by hand at nearly every meal, and the thing everything else is built around.
Padaek
Fermented fish, and the deep note under Lao cooking. It is what separates a Lao papaya salad from a Thai one.
Jeow bong
Luang Prabang chilli paste, sweet and smoky, traditionally with strips of dried buffalo skin through it.
Jeow mak len
Roasted tomato pounded with chilli, garlic and coriander. The everyday dip, and the mildest thing on the table.
Laap
Minced meat or fish tossed with herbs, lime, chilli and toasted rice powder. The national dish, and the one to judge a kitchen by.
Tam mak hoong
Green papaya pounded in the mortar with garlic, chilli, lime and padaek. Sour, salty and hotter than its Thai cousin.
Naem khao
Crumbled crispy rice balls tossed with fermented pork, peanuts and herbs, then wrapped in lettuce. Texture is the whole point.
Sai oua
Grilled pork sausage packed with lemongrass, kaffir lime leaf and galangal. Sold by the coil at every market grill.
Ping kai
Chicken flattened, marinated in lemongrass and garlic, and grilled over coals. Roadside food, and the best of it.
Ping pa
Whole river fish stuffed with lemongrass, salted on the skin and cooked upright over the fire.
Khao poon
Rice vermicelli in a broth thickened with coconut or left clear, with herbs and greens piled on at the table.
Khao soi
The Luang Prabang version, and not the Thai curry noodle of the same name: flat rice noodles under a tomato and minced pork sauce.
Or lam
Luang Prabang stew of buffalo or chicken with eggplant and mushrooms, spiked with sakhaan, a vine that numbs the tongue.
Mok pa
Fish minced with lemongrass, dill and rice powder, wrapped in banana leaf and steamed until it sets.
Khao nom kok
Coconut rice pancakes cooked in a dimpled pan and served in pairs, crisp outside and molten in the middle.
Nam van
Sweet coconut milk poured over jackfruit, tapioca pearls and jellies, and eaten cold from a plastic cup.
Beerlao
The national lager, brewed with local jasmine rice, and effectively the default drink in the country.
Lao-lao
Rice whisky, distilled in villages and poured for guests. The bottle with something coiled in it is not a joke.
Bolaven coffee
Grown on the volcanic plateau above Pakse, and the reason Laos exports coffee at all. Drunk sweet and strong, over condensed milk.


