Land in Dublin and give it two or three nights: Trinity College, the national museums, the Georgian squares and a day at the passage tombs of the Boyne Valley. Then pick a direction. The southwest is the classic run: Cork, Killarney, the Ring of Kerry and the Dingle Peninsula. The west has Galway, the Burren, the Cliffs of Moher and Connemara, with fewer coaches. The northwest is the quietest stretch of the Wild Atlantic Way. Go in May, June or September.
5 Ireland city guides
Fun fact
Irish is the first official language of the State and has been a full working language of the European Union since 1 January 2022, when a derogation limiting Irish translation ran out after sixteen years.
Stereotypes, sorted out
The realityRain here is frequent and light. Met Éireann puts most of the east between 750 and 1,000 millimetres a year and the west between 1,000 and 1,400, with April and May driest and December wettest. Showers blow in off the Atlantic and pass. Pack a shell, not an umbrella: the wind wins.
The realityCensus 2022 counted 1,873,997 people aged three and over who said they could speak Irish, two in five, and far fewer use it daily outside school. English runs the country. Irish is everyday speech in the western Gaeltacht, it is on every road sign, and it is very much alive.
The realityThe Republic of Ireland is the 26 counties covered here. Northern Ireland is part of the United Kingdom, with sterling, its own police service and its own entry rules. The border is open and mostly unsigned, easy to cross unnoticed until your phone bill arrives.
The realitySessions are real and scheduled. They cluster in towns like Doolin, Dingle, Galway and Ennis, in particular pubs on particular nights, and the good ones are a circle of players facing each other. Ask locally on the day, and do not talk over the slow airs.
The realityThe State is 70,273 square kilometres, crossable in an afternoon on the motorways. The coast is the catch: regional and local roads at 80 and 60, single track in places, where a ninety-minute drive takes three hours with the stops you came for.
Cultural notes that actually help
- Buy your round. Pub rounds run on turns, with no splitting of the bill at the end, and skipping yours is the one thing that gets noticed.
- Order at the bar, since table service is not coming, and check the kitchen hours: food usually stops well before the drink does.
- Small talk first. A question lands better after a word about the weather or the drive, and getting straight to business reads as rude.
- Let the person you are with set the tone on politics, history and the North. Curiosity is welcome, confident summaries are not.
- Learn the two words on the toilet doors: fir is men and mná is women, and plenty of pubs label them only in Irish.
- Tip by rounding up in a pub and by roughly ten per cent at a restaurant table when no service charge is on the bill.
- Drive on the left, and give way at roundabouts to traffic coming from your right. On a single-track road, the pull-in nearest you is yours to use.
Famous Irish faces

Seamus Heaney

James Joyce

Samuel Beckett

Bono

Sinéad O'Connor

Saoirse Ronan

Katie Taylor

Oscar Wilde

Bram Stoker

Maeve Binchy

Enya

Dolores O'Riordan

Rory Gallagher

Hozier

Cillian Murphy

Colin Farrell

Brendan Gleeson

Neil Jordan

Roy Keane

Henry Shefflin

Éamon de Valera

Michael D. Higgins
Mary Robinson
W. B. Yeats
Sally Rooney
Christy Moore
Sonia O'Sullivan
Michael Collins
Must-try Irish food

Irish stew
Lamb or mutton with potato and onion, simmered until the meat gives. Beef is the shortcut.

Colcannon
Mashed potato folded through kale or cabbage, with butter and spring onion through it.

Boxty
Northern midlands potato pancake of grated raw potato and mash together.

Coddle
A Dublin pot of sausages, rashers, onion and potato, cooked pale in stock.

Bacon and cabbage
Boiled loin bacon with cabbage and parsley sauce, the old Sunday plate.

Seafood chowder
The standard pub lunch on both coasts, with brown bread. A fast test of any kitchen.

Smoked salmon
Cold-smoked over oak or beech, sliced thin, eaten on brown bread with lemon.

Fish and chips
Cod or haddock in batter from a chipper. In Dublin, ask for a 'one and one'.

Guinness
Poured in two stages with a rest between, so the wait is part of the order.

Irish whiskey
Triple-distilled as a rule, and single pot still is the style that exists nowhere else.

Irish coffee
Coffee, sugar, whiskey and cream, invented at the Foynes flying-boat terminal.

Tea
Strong, with milk, offered within a minute of arriving. Refusing takes two attempts.
Champ
Mash beaten with hot milk and scallions, with a well of melting butter in the middle.
The full Irish
Rashers, sausage, egg, tomato, and black and white pudding. Built for a day outdoors.
Galway oysters
Native flat oysters, in season from September, with a Galway festival each autumn.
Dublin Bay prawns
Langoustines, best plain with butter and bread, never buried in breadcrumbs.
Irish beef
Grass-fed for most of the year, and the basis of the country's steak reputation.
Spiced beef
A Cork Christmas cure, brined with spices for days and served cold in thin slices.
Drisheen
A soft-set Cork blood pudding, traditionally eaten with tripe. The one to be brave about.
Soda bread
Raised with bicarbonate of soda and buttermilk, no yeast. Best the day it is baked.
Barmbrack
A fruited tea loaf eaten at Halloween, with a ring baked in for whoever gets that slice.
Porter cake
A dark fruit cake made with stout, kept in a tin and noticeably better after a week.
Carrageen moss pudding
A set cream thickened with Atlantic seaweed, no gelatine. A coast dish.







