Walk the Medieval Mile in a day: Kilkenny Castle and its park in the morning, Rothe House and the Medieval Mile Museum after lunch, then the climb up St Canice's round tower before it closes. End at Kyteler's or the Hole in the Wall. On day two, drive south to Jerpoint Abbey and Inistioge, or north to Dunmore Cave.
Kilkenny is a city of about 27,000 on the River Nore, an hour and a half from Dublin by train. The Medieval Mile runs from the castle to St Canice's Cathedral, and in between sit Tudor merchant houses, a 1710 brewery site and some of the best pubs in Ireland.
The Butlers' seat for about 550 years, handed over in 1967 and in state care since 1969. The restored rooms and the Picture Gallery are the draw; the 21 hectares of parkland are free.
A 13th-century cathedral beside a 30-metre round tower, the oldest standing structure in the city. The climb is seven ladders and 121 steps to a platform over the roofs. Children under 18 must be at least 1.4 metres tall.
St Mary's, a 13th-century church, now holds the Rothe Chapel of about 1560 and the largest collection of Renaissance tombs in Ireland. Book online for the lowest price; the 15:00 graveyard tour runs daily from March to October.
Three linked merchant houses built for the Rothe family from 1594 to 1610. The garden behind runs to the old walls, replanted after 2008 excavations with an orchard, herb beds and a dovecote.
Smithwick's has been brewed in Kilkenny since 1710, on the site of the 13th-century St Francis Abbey. The 45-minute tour ends with a pint; brewing moved to Dublin in 2013, so this is the story, not the brewhouse.
An 1818 almshouse by the Nore, opened as the city's contemporary gallery in 2020. It holds the Tony O'Malley Collection. Entry is free with a suggested €5 donation, and it stays open until 20:00 on Thursdays.
A Dominican priory founded in 1225 by William Marshal the younger and still in use. The reason to step in is the 1892 Rosary Window by Mayer of Munich, which floods the nave with colour on a bright day.
The castle's old stables, home from 1965 to 1988 to Kilkenny Design Workshops, now show Irish craft and design in rotating exhibitions. It is free and directly across the road from the castle gate.
A Cistercian abbey of about 1180, 17 kilometres south of the city. Come for the carved cloister arcade and the weeper figures on the tombs. A guided tour is included in the entry fee.
A limestone cave 10 kilometres north of the city, with some of the finest calcite formations in Ireland. The annals record a Viking massacre here in 928. Entry is by guided tour only, capped at 50 a tour.
Augustinian priory of about 1211; its windowed Lady Chapel was the "Lantern of Ireland".
Traditional music across the city on the St Patrick's weekend.
Americana and roots, 90 shows in 30 venues on the May bank holiday.
Stand-up in pubs and theatres over the June bank holiday weekend.
Ten days of music, theatre and visual art each August.
Animation festival hosted by Cartoon Saloon, the city's Oscar-nominated studio.
Food festival over the October bank holiday weekend.
A Halloween festival built on the story of Dame Alice Kyteler.
Christmas lights, market and events from late November to 23 December.
The nearest working airport, about 130 km away. JJ Kavanagh route 717 runs from the terminal to Kilkenny.
MacDonagh station is on the Dublin Heuston to Waterford line, about 1 hour 30 minutes from Dublin.
Routes KK1 and KK2 run every 30 minutes Monday to Saturday, with late buses on Friday and Saturday.
Castle to cathedral along the Medieval Mile is about a kilometre. Leave the car at the hotel.
Brewed in Kilkenny from 1710; taste it at the end of the brewery tour.
The nitro export cousin of Smithwick's, launched abroad in the 1980s.
A revived Kilkenny red ale, poured at the John Street taproom.
Organic orchard syrup from Cuffesgrange, plus their ciders.
Smoked trout and trout caviar from a Thomastown farm since 1961.
Farmhouse cheeses from Stoneyford, including the Lavistown.
Lamb or mutton with potatoes and onion, slow-cooked.
Mash with cabbage or kale, the side to order with the beef.
Get our one-page Kilkenny cheat sheet plus a fresh destination every Thursday.
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