Most first trips are Bali plus one. Give Bali four or five days, split between Ubud for the rice terraces and temples and the south coast for the surf, then fly on. Java is the usual second leg: Yogyakarta for Borobudur and Prambanan, then dawn at Bromo and Ijen. Divers go east, to Komodo or Raja Ampat. Sumatra is the wildest and slowest to cross. Nothing is near anything else, so budget for internal flights and pick two islands.
4 Indonesia city guides
Fun fact
Indonesia counts 127 active volcanoes, more than any other country, and sits on the stretch of the Ring of Fire where the Indo-Australian plate dives under the Eurasian one.
Stereotypes, sorted out
The realityBali is one province among dozens and holds a small share of the people. Java alone carries more than half the population, Borobudur, Prambanan and the volcano corridor. A trip that never leaves Bali has seen one island out of thousands, and a one-hour flight fixes that.
The realityThe beaches are real, and so is the mountain chain running the length of the archipelago. Ijen's crater lake, Bromo's caldera and the highland lakes of Sumatra are cold enough at dawn to want a jacket. Rainforest and altitude take up far more of Indonesia than sand does.
The realityIndonesian is the shared working language, and the education ministry has validated 718 regional languages alongside it, second only to Papua New Guinea. Javanese court manners, Minangkabau matrilineal inheritance, Balinese Hinduism and Papuan clans are different worlds under one flag.
The realityThe archipelago spans three time zones and stretches further east to west than the continental United States. Two weeks is a good trip across two islands. It is not a lap of the country, and the itineraries that promise one spend most of their days in airports.
The realityWarung meals, local transport and family-run guesthouses are inexpensive by any standard. Internal flights, dive packages, Komodo boats and Bali's villa market are not, and that is where the budget actually goes. Price the flights first and the rest of the trip plans itself.
The realityThe northwest monsoon brings heavy afternoon downpours, and mornings are often clear. Rates drop and the rice terraces are at their greenest. The real cost is rougher crossings to the smaller islands.
How to fit in
- Give, receive and eat with your right hand. The left is for washing, and using it to pass something reads as an insult.
- Take your shoes off before entering a home, a mosque or a temple, and follow whoever went in ahead of you.
- Cover shoulders and knees at religious sites. Balinese temples lend a sarong and sash at the gate, and wearing them is not optional.
- Point with your thumb or an open hand. An index finger aimed at a person is rude.
- Keep your voice down and your temper flat. Raising either loses the argument and the room.
- Terima kasih goes a long way, and so does learning the greeting for the time of day.
- During Ramadan, eat and drink discreetly in Muslim-majority areas and expect shorter opening hours.
- Ask before photographing people, ceremonies and funerals. In Toraja and in Bali a ritual is not a performance.
- Do not touch anyone's head, a child's included, and do not step over the small offerings left on Balinese pavements.
Famous Indonesian faces

Sukarno

Pramoedya Ananta Toer

Anggun

Iko Uwais

B.J. Habibie

Sukarno

Mohammad Hatta

Joko Widodo

Megawati Sukarnoputri

Susilo Bambang Yudhoyono

Pramoedya Ananta Toer

Andrea Hirata

Eka Kurniawan

Anggun

Agnez Mo

Joey Alexander

Rich Brian

Iko Uwais

Christine Hakim

Joko Anwar

Taufik Hidayat

Apriyani Rahayu

B.J. Habibie
Raden Adjeng Kartini
Susi Susanti
Raden Saleh
Raden Adjeng Kartini
Prince Diponegoro
Chairil Anwar
Wage Rudolf Supratman
Garin Nugroho
Susi Susanti
Greysia Polii
Raden Saleh
Affandi
I Nyoman Nuarta
Must-try Indonesian food

Sate
Skewers over coconut charcoal with peanut or sweet soy sauce. Every island has its own.

Gado-gado
Blanched vegetables, tofu, tempe and egg under a thick peanut dressing.

Soto
Turmeric chicken broth over rice or noodles with lime and shallots. Each city has its own.

Sambal
Chilli pounded with garlic, shrimp paste, lime or tomato. Matah in Bali, ijo in Padang.

Gudeg
Young jackfruit braised for hours in palm sugar and coconut milk. Yogyakarta, and sweet.

Rawon
Black beef soup coloured by keluak nut, with bean sprouts and salted egg. East Java.

Bakso
Springy meatballs in clear broth with noodles and chilli, sold from neighbourhood carts.

Nasi pecel
Greens and rice under a rough peanut and chilli sauce. The Javanese working breakfast.

Rendang
Beef cooked in coconut milk and spice until dark and dry. Minangkabau, built to travel.

Nasi Padang
Small plates land unasked and you pay for what you touch. West Sumatran, and everywhere.

Pempek
Fried fish and tapioca cakes in dark sour-sweet vinegar with cucumber. From Palembang.

Mie Aceh
Thick noodles fried with curry spice, chilli and beef or crab. Far north, and fiery.

Sate lilit
Minced fish or pork with coconut and spice, moulded onto lemongrass and grilled.

Ayam betutu
Chicken packed with Balinese spice paste, wrapped in leaves and slow-cooked. Order ahead.

Coto Makassar
Beef and offal in a peanut-thickened broth with pressed rice cakes. South Sulawesi.

Papeda
Sago starch cooked to a translucent glue, eaten with yellow fish soup in Maluku and Papua.

Pisang goreng
Battered banana fried hot from the cart, sometimes topped with cheese and chocolate.

Siomay
Steamed fish dumplings with potato, cabbage and egg under peanut sauce and lime.

Kerak telor
Sticky rice and duck egg grilled crisp over charcoal under fried coconut. Betawi Jakarta.

Klepon
Pandan rice-flour balls in coconut, filled with palm sugar that bursts when you bite.

Dadar gulung
Pandan crepes rolled around coconut and palm sugar. Market food, gone by nine.

Jamu
Turmeric, tamarind and ginger tonics, sold fresh from a basket. Bitter, taken as medicine.
Nasi goreng
Fried rice with sweet soy, shallots and chilli, under a fried egg. Eaten at any hour.
Tempe
Whole soybeans fermented into a firm cake, then fried or braised. A Javanese invention.
Babi guling
Suckling pig stuffed with turmeric, lemongrass and chilli, spit-roasted. Balinese.
Martabak
Either a thick sweet chocolate pancake or a thin savoury one folded around egg and beef.
Es cendol
Green rice-flour worms in coconut milk and palm sugar over shaved ice.
Kopi tubruk
Coarse coffee and sugar under boiling water. Let it settle, and stop before the grounds.
Es kelapa muda
Young coconut water and flesh over ice, with palm sugar. Worth walking for in the heat.





