First trips work best as two cities and one region. Take Berlin for the twentieth century and the nightlife, then Munich for the Alps behind it or Hamburg for water and warehouses. With a second week, add the Rhine valley, the Black Forest or Saxony. The strongest months are May, June and September, and December earns the cold because of the Christmas markets.
3 German city guides
Fun fact
Berlin holds about 3.7 million of Germany's 83.6 million people, under five percent of the country. Germany spent centuries as a patchwork of states, so Hamburg, Munich, Cologne and Frankfurt each still run an orbit of their own.
Stereotypes, sorted out
The realityThe humour is dry, literal and often aimed at itself. It lands the moment you stop waiting for the joke to be signposted.
The realityGermans make this joke before you do, usually about the trains. Leave slack in a tight connection and check the DB app before you leave the hotel.
The realityThat is Bavaria, and only part of it. Hamburg is maritime and understated, Cologne drinks Kölsch in small glasses, and Berlin looks like none of the above.
The realityDirect, not cold. Small talk is thin on the ground, but ask a real question and you get a real answer, usually a more useful one than you expected.
The realityMuch of it does, and the rest carries an advisory speed. Roadworks, urban stretches and wet weather all bring limits, and they are enforced.
Cultural notes that actually help
- Say Guten Tag when you walk into a small shop or bakery, and Tschüss on the way out.
- Wait for the green man. Crossing on red, especially in front of children, will earn you a comment.
- Sort your rubbish, and take bottles back to the supermarket machine. The deposit is refunded on the spot.
- Book a table, particularly at weekends and anywhere with a garden.
- Carry cash for markets, bakeries and small bars even where cards are taken.
- Sunday is quiet by law and by preference. Plan a walk, a gallery or a long breakfast.
Famous German faces

Albert Einstein

Angela Merkel

Johann Sebastian Bach

Michael Schumacher

Karl Marx

Konrad Adenauer

Willy Brandt

Richard Wagner

Johannes Brahms

Hans Zimmer

Werner Herzog

Wim Wenders

Rainer Werner Fassbinder

Diane Kruger

Gerhard Richter

Walter Gropius

Franz Beckenbauer

Steffi Graf

Jürgen Klopp

Hermann Hesse
Johann Wolfgang von Goethe
Ludwig van Beethoven
Marlene Dietrich
Otto von Bismarck
Max Planck
Robert Koch
Alexander von Humboldt
Werner Heisenberg
Clara Schumann
Kraftwerk
Albrecht Dürer
Käthe Kollwitz
Thomas Mann
The Brothers Grimm
Bertolt Brecht
Must-try German food

Currywurst
Sliced sausage under curried tomato sauce, eaten standing up at a Berlin Imbiss.

Sauerbraten
Beef marinated for days, then braised into a sweet and sour gravy.

Obatzda
Camembert whipped with butter, paprika and onion, made for a beer garden table.

Himmel un Ääd
Cologne's black pudding with apple sauce and mashed potato. Heaven and earth, literally.

Halve Hahn
A rye roll with aged Gouda and mustard. Anyone expecting half a chicken will be let down.

Reibekuchen
Potato fritters fried until the edges shatter, served with apple sauce.

Fischbrötchen
Pickled or fried fish in a roll with onion, bought at the harbour and eaten on the wall.

Quarkkeulchen
Saxon curd-cheese and potato cakes, fried and dusted with cinnamon sugar.

Maultaschen
Swabian pasta parcels of meat and spinach, in broth or fried with onions.

Käsespätzle
Egg noodles layered with mountain cheese and topped with fried onions.

Schwarzwälder Schinken
Black Forest ham, smoked over fir and cut fine enough to see through.

Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte
Chocolate sponge, cherries and kirsch. The original is boozier than the export version.

Stollen
Dense Dresden Christmas bread of fruit and marzipan under a snowfall of sugar.

Lebkuchen
Nuremberg's soft spiced gingerbread, baked on a wafer and sold from Advent.

Weissbier
Bavarian wheat beer, cloudy and banana-scented, poured slowly into a tall glass.

Apfelwein
Frankfurt's tart cider, served from a stoneware jug in the Sachsenhausen taverns.
Schnitzel
Pork or veal beaten thin, breaded and fried, with lemon and a potato salad alongside.
Bratwurst
Grilled over beech, handed over in a bread roll with a stripe of mustard.
Rouladen
Beef rolled around bacon, onion and pickle, and slow-cooked into Sunday lunch.
Kartoffelsalat
Potato salad, with vinegar and stock in the south, mayonnaise in the north.
Weisswurst
Pale veal sausage with sweet mustard and a pretzel, traditionally eaten before noon.
Schweinshaxe
Roast pork knuckle with crackling you can hear across the beer hall.
Brezn
The Bavarian pretzel: dark, chewy, salted, and best within an hour of baking.
Leberkäse
A baked meatloaf sliced thick into a semmel. Bakery lunch, and no liver in it.
Pfefferpotthast
Dortmund's peppery beef stew, thickened with breadcrumbs and eaten with pickles.
Labskaus
Hamburg sailor food: corned beef and beetroot hash under a fried egg, with herring.
Grünkohl mit Pinkel
Winter kale stewed with a smoked sausage. The north eats it after the first frost.
Matjes
Young herring, mild and buttery, with onions, apple and new potatoes.
Thüringer Rostbratwurst
The long, marjoram-scented sausage from Thuringia, grilled and protected by name.
Soljanka
A sharp, smoky soup that arrived from the east and stayed on menus after 1990.
Dresdner Eierschecke
Three layers of quark, custard and cake, and the reason to sit down in Dresden.
Flammkuchen
Thin dough with crème fraîche, onion and bacon, blistered in a hot oven.
Berliner
A jam doughnut without the hole, called Pfannkuchen in Berlin itself.
Riesling
The Mosel and Rheingau grape: steep-slope wines that run bone dry to lusciously sweet.
Kölsch
Cologne's pale beer, in small glasses that keep arriving until you put the mat on top.



