Pick the season first. Helsinki works all year, with Suomenlinna, the design district and a shoreline sauna in one day, and Porvoo or Turku and the archipelago close by. Summer belongs to the Lakeland: Savonlinna, Kuopio, Tampere and the view from Koli. Winter moves north to Rovaniemi on the Arctic Circle, Levi for skiing and Inari for Sámi Finland and the best aurora odds. A week does one half properly, and that is the better trip.
4 Finland city guides
Fun fact
UNESCO listed Finnish sauna culture as intangible heritage in 2020. The nomination counted roughly 3.3 million saunas for a population a little under 5.7 million, close to one per household, which puts saunas in apartment basements, offices and Lapland cabins alike.
Stereotypes, sorted out
The realityLapland is a third of the country and the part almost nobody sees in summer, when the rest of Finland is at its best. The lakes, the archipelago and Helsinki are a different holiday in a different season, and doing Lapland and the lakes in one week means spending it moving.
The realityOnly above the Arctic Circle, home to a small fraction of Finns. Utsjoki, the northernmost municipality, has roughly fifty days of polar night and more than seventy of midnight sun. Helsinki, over eight hundred kilometres south, gets grey December afternoons and blue June nights.
The realityIt is Nordic, the wider group. Finnish is not Germanic and is unrelated to Swedish, Norwegian or Danish. Finland was ruled from Stockholm for six centuries and Saint Petersburg for one, declared independence in 1917, and kept Swedish as a second official language.
The realityIt is a room, and there are roughly 3.3 million of them for 5.7 million people, in apartment blocks, offices and every lakeside cabin. Families and colleagues talk there, naked and single sex among strangers, and it comes free with your hotel. Treat it as a room you use.
How to behave
- Take your shoes off inside a home, always. Nobody will ask, and nobody will need to.
- Sauna is normally naked and single sex when strangers are present. Sit on a towel, and go out and cool off whenever you want to.
- Silence is not a problem to solve. Finns leave gaps in conversation and do not read them as awkward, so let them sit.
- Say what you mean. Politeness here is accuracy, and an overstated compliment lands as insincere.
- Punctuality is literal. Ten minutes late to something arranged is late, and it will be noticed.
- Take a number ticket at pharmacies, bakeries and public offices, and do not stand close to anyone in the queue.
- Wine and spirits above eight per cent are sold only at Alko, so plan drinks around its opening hours.
Famous Finnish faces

Jean Sibelius

Alvar Aalto

Paavo Nurmi

Carl Gustaf Emil Mannerheim

Kimi Räikkönen

Akseli Gallen-Kallela

Armi Ratia

Eero Saarinen

Frans Eemil Sillanpää

Väinö Linna

Kaija Saariaho

Aki Kaurismäki

Renny Harlin

Lasse Virén

Mika Häkkinen

Teemu Selänne

Jari Litmanen

Artturi Ilmari Virtanen

Bengt Holmström

Martti Ahtisaari

Tarja Halonen

Sanna Marin
Tove Jansson
Elias Lönnrot
Linus Torvalds
Minna Canth
Esa-Pekka Salonen
Lordi
Ragnar Granit
Must-try Finnish food

Ruisleipä
Sour, dense, dark rye, usually a flat ring with a hole. Finns abroad have it posted.

Karjalanpaisti
Beef, pork and often lamb with onion, allspice and bay, left for hours in a low oven.

Hernekeitto ja pannukakku
Pea and pork soup with mustard, then oven pancake and jam. Thursday food nationwide.

Lihapullat
Meatballs in cream gravy with mash and lingonberry. Not the Swedish ones, Finns insist.

Mustamakkara
Tampere blood sausage with lingonberry jam and cold milk, sold at its market hall.

Lohikeitto
Salmon, potato, leek and dill in a creamy broth. The lakeside cafe lunch.

Kalakukko
Vendace and pork baked in a sealed rye loaf until the bones dissolve. Kuopio’s own.

Runebergintorttu
Almond-rum cake with raspberry jam, sold only before Runeberg’s day on 5 February.

Laskiaispulla
Cardamom bun filled with whipped cream and jam or almond paste. Finns take sides.

Lonkero
Gin and grapefruit soda, made for the 1952 Helsinki Olympics. The name means long drink.

Sahti
Farmhouse ale strained through juniper, brewed in Häme. Stronger than it tastes.
Karjalanpiirakka
Thin rye crust around rice porridge, eaten warm under egg butter. Every Finn eats them.
Graavilohi
Salmon cured in salt, sugar and dill, sliced thin on rye with mustard sauce.
Silakka
Herring, fried in rye flour or pickled. Helsinki holds a herring fair every October.
Muikku
Tiny vendace fried whole in rye flour, head and all, with garlic mayonnaise.
Poronkäristys
Shaved reindeer fried in butter, on mash with lingonberry. The dish Lapland is built on.
Leipäjuusto ja lakka
Squeaky baked cheese from the north, warmed, with cloudberry jam from the bogs.
Korvasienimuhennos
Creamed false morels, poisonous raw and safe only after parboiling twice.
Sienisalaatti
Funnel chanterelles or milk caps with cream and onion. Foraged by right, cooked at home.
Korvapuusti
Cinnamon and cardamom bun cut on the slant. The name means slapped ear.
Mustikkapiirakka
Bilberry pie on a soft base, sometimes over quark. Forest berries, and they stain.
Mämmi
Baked rye and malt pudding eaten cold with cream at Easter. Black, unpromising and good.
Kahvi
Light-roast filter coffee. Finns drink more per person than anyone, at any hour.
Sima
Lemon mead brewed at home for Vappu, the first of May, with a raisin in every bottle.
Salmiakki
Ammonium chloride liquorice, sold as sweets and spirit. It divides Finns from everyone.





