Algiers is where every route starts, and three nights covers the Casbah, the Bardo and the Musée national des Beaux-Arts, plus an afternoon at Tipasa, the Roman seaside city an hour west. From there the country splits three ways. East along the coast to Béjaïa and the Kabylie mountains, then inland to Constantine, the city built across a gorge, with the Roman streets of Djémila and Timgad within reach and Annaba beyond them. West to Oran for the raï bars, the Spanish forts and the beaches, and on to Tlemcen for the Andalusian mosques. South is the other trip entirely: Ghardaïa and the M'zab valley at the edge of the plateau, then Timimoun, Djanet and Tamanrasset, which are flights rather than drives and are travelled with a licensed agency. April, May, October and November suit the north. The Sahara is a winter destination.
3 Algeria city guides
Fun fact
Algeria became the largest country in Africa in 2011, when South Sudan's independence split Sudan in two. At 2,381,741 square kilometres it is also the tenth largest in the world, and roughly four fifths of it is desert.
Stereotypes, sorted out
The realityIt is bureaucratic, not closed. The visa is a consular application with real paperwork and a wait of weeks, which puts most people off, and that is the whole barrier. On the far side of it are Roman cities you will have to yourself and a tourism industry small enough to still be genuinely pleased you came.
The realityFour fifths of it is desert and the other fifth holds almost everyone. The north is Mediterranean: vineyards, pine and cork forests, ski slopes above Blida and a coastline that runs 1,600 kilometres. The Sahara itself is mostly rock, not dune, and the Hoggar is volcanic mountains rising past 2,900 metres.
The realityTimgad is a complete Roman colonial town on a grid, laid out for Trajan's veterans and abandoned early enough to stay legible. Djémila sits in the hills with its forum and arch intact, and Tipasa runs Phoenician, Roman and Byzantine ruins along the sea. Three of Algeria's seven UNESCO sites are Roman.
The realityFrench will get you a long way and it is not the country's language. Arabic and Tamazight are the official pair, darja is what people actually speak, and Kabyle is the first language of the mountains east of Algiers. A few words of any of them changes the temperature of an encounter.
The realityGhardaïa is a domestic flight from Algiers and Djanet is nearly 2,000 kilometres south of the capital. The desert is a separate leg of the trip with its own season, its own operator and its own aircraft, and treating it as an add-on is how people end up seeing an airport.
Cultural notes that actually help
- Hospitality is treated as an obligation rather than a gesture. An invitation to eat is meant, and refusing outright reads as a rebuff, so accept and eat lightly if you must.
- Friday and Saturday are the weekend. Friday lunch belongs to family and couscous, and the working week runs Sunday to Thursday.
- Cash runs the country. Carry small notes, because change for a large one is a genuine problem in a café or a taxi.
- Ask before photographing people, and skip it entirely around government buildings, ports, airports and military sites.
- Dress is relaxed in central Algiers and Oran and more conservative in smaller towns and in the south. Covered shoulders and knees keep every door open, and mosques ask for the same.
- Alcohol is legal and low-key. It is sold in licensed shops and served in some hotels and restaurants, and it is not part of an ordinary meal out.
- Greetings take time. Handshakes, a question about the family and a second question about your journey come before business, and cutting to the point reads as brusque.
Famous Algerian faces
Emir Abdelkader
Saint Augustine
Albert Camus
Assia Djebar
Zinedine Zidane
Khaled
Yves Saint Laurent
Riyad Mahrez
Massinissa
Ahmed Ben Bella
Djamila Bouhired
Houari Boumédiène
Kateb Yacine
Mohammed Dib
Yasmina Khadra
Jacques Derrida
Cheikha Rimitti
Idir
Warda Al-Jazairia
Rachid Taha
Souad Massi
Merzak Allouache
Rachid Bouchareb
Isabelle Adjani
Hassiba Boulmerka
Noureddine Morceli
Taoufik Makhloufi
Rabah Madjer
Baya
Mohammed Racim
M'hamed Issiakhem
Must-try Algerian food
Couscous
The national plate and the Friday one: steamed semolina under lamb or chicken with chickpeas, carrot, turnip and courgette, and a ladle of the broth poured over at the table.
Chorba frik
Lamb and tomato soup thickened with frik, the green wheat harvested young and roasted. The first thing on the table when the fast breaks in Ramadan.
Rechta
Algiers in a bowl: hand-cut flat noodles steamed, then covered in a pale chicken and turnip sauce scented with cinnamon. A celebration dish rather than a weeknight one.
Dolma
Courgettes, potatoes and peppers hollowed out, stuffed with minced meat and simmered in a white sauce. The Ottoman inheritance, still cooked weekly.
Tajine zitoune
Nothing to do with the Moroccan pot. Chicken or meatballs stewed with olives and mushrooms in a lemon and cinnamon sauce, and a fixture at family lunches.
Bourek
Cigars of thin pastry rolled around minced meat, cheese or tuna and fried until they shatter. Sold by the tray in Ramadan and by the piece the rest of the year.
Mhadjeb
Semolina flatbread folded around a cooked onion and tomato filling and griddled flat. The best thing you will eat standing on a street corner.
Chakhchoukha
From the Aurès and Biskra: rougag flatbread torn into pieces by hand and drowned in a red lamb and chickpea stew. Filling in a way that ends the day's plans.
Karantika
Oran's own: chickpea flour baked into a soft custard, cut into slabs, dusted with cumin and eaten in a split baguette with harissa.
Berkoukes
Hand-rolled semolina pearls, larger than couscous, cooked into a vegetable and lamb soup. A winter dish of the high plateau.
Mechoui
Whole lamb turned slowly over embers until the skin crackles and the meat pulls apart. The centrepiece of Aïd and of any occasion worth the effort.
Deglet Nour dates
The translucent amber date of the Tolga oases near Biskra, dry rather than sticky and the one Algeria is known for abroad.
Grilled sardines
The coast's cheapest good lunch. Bought at the port in the morning, grilled over coals, and eaten with bread, salt and lemon.
Poisson au four
Whole sea bream or bass baked over sliced potatoes with olive oil, garlic and chermoula. Every seafront restaurant from Annaba to Oran has a version.
Fried calamari
Floured, fried hard and served with lemon and harissa. The starter that arrives before you have chosen anything else.
Zlabia
Coils of batter fried and steeped in syrup, orange and sticky. Boufarik's version is the one people argue for, and Ramadan is when the queues form.
Makroud
Semolina diamonds packed with date paste, fried and dipped in honey. Constantine and Biskra both claim it and both are worth believing.
Kalb el louz
Semolina and almond cake soaked in orange-blossom syrup until the middle is nearly liquid. Ramadan's dessert, sold warm from the tray.
Lham lahlou
Sweet meat, literally: lamb simmered with prunes, cinnamon and orange-blossom water and eaten as a course of its own. Stranger on paper than in the mouth.
Qahwa and mint tea
Coffee is the northern habit and the reason cafés are full at four in the afternoon. Mint tea, poured from a height, takes over as you go south.
Selecto
The apple and caramel soda from Hamoud Boualem, an Algiers house founded in 1878 that has outlasted every multinational sent to unseat it.


