Give Algiers three nights for the Casbah and the Bardo, with a day at Tipasa, the Roman city on the sea an hour west. East lie Béjaïa, the Kabylie mountains and Constantine on its gorge, with Djémila and Timgad in reach. West is Oran for raï and beaches, then Tlemcen. The south is a separate trip: Ghardaïa and the M'zab valley, then Djanet and Tamanrasset by air with a licensed agency. April, May, October and November suit the north. The Sahara is for winter.
3 Algeria city guides
Fun fact
Algeria became the largest country in Africa in 2011, when South Sudan's independence split Sudan in two. At 2,381,741 square kilometres it is also the tenth largest in the world, and roughly four fifths of it is desert.
Stereotypes, sorted out
The realityIt is bureaucratic, not closed. The visa is a consular application with real paperwork and a wait of weeks, and that is the whole barrier. Beyond it are Roman cities you will have to yourself and a tourism industry small enough to be pleased you came.
The realityFour fifths of it is desert and the other fifth holds almost everyone. The north is Mediterranean, with vineyards, cork forests, ski slopes above Blida and 1,600 kilometres of coast. The Sahara is mostly rock, and the Hoggar is volcanic mountains past 2,900 metres.
The realityTimgad is a complete Roman colonial town on a grid, laid out for Trajan's veterans and abandoned early enough to stay legible. Djémila keeps its forum and arch in the hills, and Tipasa runs Phoenician, Roman and Byzantine ruins along the sea. Three of Algeria's seven UNESCO sites are Roman.
The realityFrench will get you a long way and it is not the country's language. Arabic and Tamazight are the official pair, darja is what people actually speak, and Kabyle is the first language of the mountains east of Algiers. A few words of any of them changes the temperature of an encounter.
The realityGhardaïa is a domestic flight from Algiers and Djanet is nearly 2,000 kilometres south of the capital. The desert is a separate leg of the trip with its own season, its own operator and its own aircraft, and treating it as an add-on is how people end up seeing an airport.
Cultural notes that actually help
- Hospitality is an obligation here. An invitation to eat is meant, and refusing outright reads as a rebuff, so accept and eat lightly if you must.
- Friday and Saturday are the weekend. Friday lunch belongs to family and couscous, and the working week runs Sunday to Thursday.
- Cash runs the country. Carry small notes, because change for a large one is a real problem in a café or a taxi.
- Ask before photographing people, and skip it entirely around government buildings, ports, airports and military sites.
- Dress is relaxed in central Algiers and Oran and more conservative in smaller towns and in the south. Covered shoulders and knees keep every door open, and mosques ask for the same.
- Alcohol is legal and low-key. It is sold in licensed shops and served in some hotels and restaurants, and it is not part of an ordinary meal out.
- Greetings take time. Handshakes, a question about the family and a second question about your journey come before business, and cutting to the point reads as brusque.
Famous Algerian faces

Assia Djebar

Khaled

Ahmed Ben Bella

Djamila Bouhired

Houari Boumédiène

Kateb Yacine

Yasmina Khadra

Cheikha Rimitti

Idir

Warda Al-Jazairia

Rachid Taha

Souad Massi

Merzak Allouache

Rachid Bouchareb

Noureddine Morceli

Taoufik Makhloufi

Rabah Madjer
Emir Abdelkader
Saint Augustine
Albert Camus
Zinedine Zidane
Yves Saint Laurent
Riyad Mahrez
Massinissa
Mohammed Dib
Jacques Derrida
Isabelle Adjani
Hassiba Boulmerka
Baya
Mohammed Racim
M'hamed Issiakhem
Must-try Algerian food

Couscous
The Friday national dish. Steamed semolina under lamb or chicken, vegetables and broth.

Rechta
Algiers' festive dish. Hand-cut noodles under a chicken and turnip sauce with cinnamon.

Dolma
Vegetables stuffed with minced meat in a white sauce. Ottoman in origin, cooked weekly.

Bourek
Thin pastry cigars of meat, cheese or tuna, fried crisp. Sold by the tray in Ramadan.

Mhadjeb
Semolina flatbread folded over onion and tomato, griddled flat and eaten on the street.

Chakhchoukha
From the Aurès and Biskra. Torn rougag flatbread drowned in red lamb and chickpea stew.

Karantika
Oran's chickpea-flour custard, cut in slabs with cumin, in a baguette with harissa.

Berkoukes
Large hand-rolled semolina pearls in lamb and vegetable soup. A high-plateau winter dish.

Grilled sardines
The coast's cheapest good lunch. Grilled over coals, eaten with bread, salt and lemon.

Fried calamari
Floured, fried hard and served with lemon and harissa. Usually the first plate to arrive.

Kalb el louz
Semolina and almond cake soaked in orange-blossom syrup. Ramadan's dessert, sold warm.

Lham lahlou
Sweet meat. Lamb with prunes, cinnamon and orange-blossom water, served as its own course.
Chorba frik
Lamb and tomato soup thickened with roasted green wheat. It breaks the Ramadan fast.
Tajine zitoune
Chicken or meatballs stewed with olives and mushrooms in a lemon and cinnamon sauce.
Mechoui
Whole lamb turned slowly over embers until the skin crackles. The centrepiece of Aïd.
Deglet Nour dates
The amber, dry-fleshed date of the Tolga oases near Biskra, and Algeria's best known.
Poisson au four
Whole bream or bass baked on potatoes with oil, garlic and chermoula, on every seafront.
Zlabia
Batter coils fried and soaked in syrup. In Ramadan the queues form for Boufarik's.
Makroud
Semolina and date paste diamonds, fried and honeyed. Constantine and Biskra both claim it.
Qahwa and mint tea
Coffee fills northern cafés at four in the afternoon. Mint tea takes over as you go south.
Selecto
Apple and caramel soda from Hamoud Boualem, an Algiers firm founded in 1878.



