First-timers give Cairo four days for Giza, the Grand Egyptian Museum and Islamic Cairo, then move south to Luxor and Aswan for the temples and the river. Add the Red Sea or South Sinai if you want reef diving. Travel between October and April: the Nile valley in high summer is punishing rather than merely hot.
4 Egypt city guides
Fun fact
Around 95 percent of Egyptians live on the roughly 4 percent of the country the Nile waters. The map is enormous; the inhabited strip is not.
Stereotypes, sorted out
The realityGiza and Karnak are crowded from mid-morning and quiet at opening. Start at the gate, break through the afternoon, and the same sites feel half empty.
The realityTrains, domestic flights, museum tickets and licensed guides are all bookable independently. A package buys convenience, not access.
The realityThe Red Sea and Sinai coasts hold some of the best reef diving anywhere, and Alexandria is a Mediterranean city with its own food, its own accent and its own weather.
The realityTouting is real at the big sites and thins out fast away from them. A friendly, unambiguous "la shukran" ends most of it.
Cultural notes that actually help
- Greet before you ask. As-salamu alaykum first, then the question, changes the whole exchange.
- Carry small notes. Baksheesh for a hand with a bag or a door opened is the norm, and nobody can break a large bill.
- Cover shoulders and knees at mosques and churches, and bring a scarf for your hair. Many mosques lend a robe at the door.
- Friday is the day off and the midday prayer empties the streets. Plan museums and long journeys around it.
- Ask before photographing people, and put the camera away at checkpoints, bridges and anything military.
- Eat and pass with your right hand. The left one stays out of shared dishes.
Famous Egyptian faces

Umm Kulthum

Naguib Mahfouz

Omar Sharif

Mohamed Salah

Ahmed Zewail

Gamal Abdel Nasser

Anwar Sadat

Boutros Boutros-Ghali

Abdel Halim Hafez

Mohamed Abdel Wahab

Amr Diab

Youssef Chahine

Faten Hamama

Nawal El Saadawi

Alaa Al Aswany

Magdi Yacoub

Zahi Hawass

Ahmed Elgendy
Cleopatra VII
Tutankhamun
Ramesses II
Hatshepsut
Imhotep
Taha Hussein
Feryal Ashraf
Must-try Egyptian food

Koshari
Rice, lentils and macaroni under tomato sauce and fried onion.

Ful medames
Slow-cooked fava beans, the standard Egyptian breakfast.

Mahshi
Vine leaves, courgettes and peppers stuffed with herbed rice.

Hawawshi
Spiced minced meat baked inside flatbread until the edges crisp.

Feteer meshaltet
Layered pastry folded thin, served sweet or savoury.

Shawarma
Meat shaved off the stack into bread with tahini and pickles.

Om Ali
Warm bread pudding with milk, nuts and coconut.

Basbousa
Semolina cake soaked in syrup.

Karkade
Hibiscus tea, hot in winter and iced through the summer.
Ta'ameya
Egypt's falafel, made with fava beans rather than chickpeas.
Molokhia
Jute-leaf stew, green and heavy with garlic, served over rice.
Fattah
Rice and crisped bread under garlic, vinegar and meat.
Kebda Eskandarani
Alexandrian liver, fried hard with chilli, garlic and lemon.
Sayadeya
Fish baked over cumin-spiced rice, an Alexandria staple.
Grilled sea bass
Picked off the ice at the counter, then grilled whole.
Kunafa
Shredded pastry over cream or cheese, drenched in syrup.
Roz bel laban
Rice pudding, served cold under cinnamon.
Sahlab
Thickened warm milk under cinnamon and chopped nuts.
Asab
Sugarcane juice, pressed to order at street counters.





