Give Tashkent two nights for the metro, the Chorsu bazaar and the museums. Then follow the railway southwest: Samarkand for the Registan and Shah-i-Zinda, Bukhara for the most intact old town in Central Asia, Khiva for a walled city you can cross on foot. The Afrosiyob covers Tashkent to Samarkand in about two hours. With more time, add the Fergana Valley or Nukus and Moynaq. Aim for April, May, September or October: the lowland summer passes 35°C.
3 Uzbekistan city guides
Fun fact
Uzbekistan is one of only two doubly landlocked countries in the world, meaning every one of its neighbours is landlocked too. The other is Liechtenstein.
Stereotypes, sorted out
The realityIt is the easiest entry point in Central Asia. Most Western passports get thirty days visa-free, the Silk Road cities sit on one high-speed railway, hotels handle registration, and tourist signage runs in English and Russian. The hard part is the distances.
The realityThe Kyzylkum is real, and the train crosses it. Around it: the Fergana Valley, some of the most densely farmed land in Central Asia, the Nuratau and Chatkal ranges with ski lifts an hour from Tashkent, and the orchards and vineyards that fill every bazaar from July onwards.
The realitySamarkand has the single most photographed square in Central Asia and it is also the most restored. Bukhara keeps a working old town where people still live between the madrasas, and Khiva is a walled city preserved whole. Travellers who see all three rarely name Samarkand as the favourite.
The realityUzbek is the state language, a Turkic tongue written in Latin script since independence and unrelated to Russian. Russian remains the second language of Tashkent and of business, thins fast in the Fergana Valley and the south, and is rarer every year among the under-thirties.
The realityThese are working cities. Tashkent is a capital of over two million with a metro built as an underground gallery, Samarkand and Bukhara are provincial capitals with universities and traffic, and the monuments sit inside them.
Cultural notes that actually help
- Non, the tandoor bread, is treated with respect. Tear it by hand, never cut it, lay it right side up, and do not put anything on top of it.
- Tea is poured back into the pot three times before the first bowl is served, and bowls are filled shallow on purpose. A full bowl politely suggests you should be leaving.
- Take your shoes off at the door of a home, and expect to eat on cushions at a low table.
- Men shake hands on meeting, often with the left hand over the heart. A hand on the heart with a slight bow is the safe greeting in any direction.
- Cover shoulders and knees at working mosques and mausoleums, and carry a scarf if you are a woman. The tourist-facing monuments are relaxed about it; a Friday mosque is not.
- Bargain in the bazaars and not in shops. Prices in a bazaar are a starting position, prices on a shelf are not.
- Hospitality arrives whether you asked for it or not. If you are invited into a home you will be fed, and bringing fruit, sweets or bread for the table settles the whole obligation.
Famous Uzbek faces

Abdulla Oripov

Yulduz Usmonova

Sevara Nazarkhan

Munojot Yoʻlchiyeva

Bakhodir Jalolov

Rustam Kasimdzhanov

Hasanboy Dusmatov

Ulugbek Rashitov

Islam Karimov

Shavkat Mirziyoyev
Amir Timur
Ulugh Beg
Al-Khwarizmi
Ibn Sina
Imam al-Bukhari
Alisher Navoi
Babur
Oksana Chusovitina
Al-Biruni
Ahmad al-Farghani
Al-Zamakhshari
Al-Tirmidhi
Bahauddin Naqshband
Al-Maturidi
Al-Marghinani
Abdulla Qodiriy
Choʻlpon
Zulfiya
Nodira
Botir Zokirov
Ruslan Chagaev
Igor Savitsky
Ali Khamraev
Sharof Rashidov
Must-try Uzbek food

Mastava
Rice soup with lamb and tomato, thickened almost to a stew. The winter default.

Dimlama
Meat and vegetables layered into a pot with no water and left to steam in their own juice.

Koʻk choy
Green tea, returned to the pot three times before the first bowl. The default drink.
Osh (plov)
Rice, carrot, lamb and cumin cooked in a cast-iron kazan. The national dish, and a lunch.
Toy oshi
The wedding plov, served from dawn to the male guests. An event more than a meal.
Shashlik
Skewered lamb or beef over coals, sold by the stick and eaten with raw onion and vinegar.
Kazan kabob
Lamb and potato fried together in the kazan and piled on one plate.
Tandir goʻsht
Whole lamb sealed into a clay tandoor and cooked until it falls apart. Ordered by weight.
Lagman
Hand-pulled noodles with lamb and peppers, in broth or fried. A Uighur dish, adopted.
Norin
Cold hand-cut noodles with sliced horse meat. A Tashkent speciality, and acquired.
Manti
Steamed dumplings of lamb, onion and pumpkin, eaten with sour cream and black pepper.
Chuchvara
Smaller dumplings, boiled and served in broth or fried until crisp.
Shurpa
Clear lamb and vegetable soup, the broth drunk separately from the meat.
Non
Round tandoor bread stamped in the centre. Samarkand’s is the one people carry home.
Somsa
Lamb and onion pastry baked on a tandoor wall. Best straight out, and scalding.
Achichuk
Thin-sliced tomato and onion with basil, the salad that cuts through a plate of plov.
Halim
Wheat and lamb pounded to a porridge over hours. A breakfast, and a Ramadan staple.
Sumalak
Wheat-germ pudding stirred all night by the women of a neighbourhood, and eaten at Navruz.
Chak-chak
Fried dough pieces bound with honey into a block, cut at celebrations.
Navat
Crystallised grape sugar on a stick, dropped into tea instead of a sugar cube.
Katyk
Thin sour yoghurt drunk cold, and the standard answer to a plate of grilled lamb.





