Open in Istanbul and give it four days, because nothing else in the country works the same way. Then the route splits. Southwest runs the Aegean for Ephesus, Pamukkale and the coastal ruins, then down to Antalya and the Turquoise coast to swim. Inland runs to Cappadocia for the rock valleys, with Konya and Ankara on the way. Repeat visitors go southeast, where Gaziantep cooks and Mardin sits on a ridge over the plain. May, September and October work almost everywhere.
4 Turkey city guides
Fun fact
Türkiye carries 22 sites on the UNESCO World Heritage List, the newest of them the ancient city of Sardis and the Lydian tumuli of Bin Tepe, inscribed in 2025.
Stereotypes, sorted out
The realityThe Mediterranean resorts are real, and they are a fraction of the country. Turkey also holds Greek and Roman cities along the Aegean, an early Ottoman capital at Bursa, volcanic valleys in Cappadocia, and a Black Sea coast that stays green through the summer.
The realityIstanbul is the largest city and the least representative one. Ankara runs the government, İzmir faces west and lives more casually, Gaziantep cooks unlike anywhere else, and the southeast speaks Kurdish and Arabic alongside Turkish.
The realityBargaining belongs to carpet shops, bazaars and souvenir stalls. Supermarkets, restaurants, transport and ordinary retail are fixed price, and haggling in them looks odd.
The realitySignage on the metros, the high-speed trains and the airports is bilingual, and English is common in Istanbul, the coastal resorts and Cappadocia. It thins out quickly inland and in the east, where a translation app earns its place.
The realityTea is. It arrives in tulip glasses at every hour and with most transactions, offered free. Turkish coffee is an occasion: small, thick, and usually after a meal.
Cultural notes that actually help
- Shoes come off at the door of a home and often at a guesthouse. Slippers are usually waiting for you.
- Mosques ask for covered shoulders and knees, and a headscarf for women. The large ones lend scarves at the door.
- Tea is an offer, not a transaction. Accepting one in a shop commits you to nothing, and refusing flatly reads as cold.
- Friday midday prayer fills the big mosques. Visit outside prayer times, and walk around a congregation, never through it.
- Public affection between couples stays low key outside Istanbul and the resorts. Read the street before assuming otherwise.
- Ramadan changes the rhythm, and the country stays open. Restaurants keep serving in tourist areas, and iftar at sunset is worth planning around.
Famous Turkish faces

Mustafa Kemal Atatürk

Orhan Pamuk

Aziz Sancar

Nuri Bilge Ceylan

Ara Güler

Naim Süleymanoğlu

Recep Tayyip Erdoğan

Tansu Çiller

Nâzım Hikmet

Yaşar Kemal

Elif Şafak

Türkan Şoray

Barış Manço

Tarkan

Fazıl Say

Arda Güler

Mete Gazoz

Hidayet Türkoğlu

Cahit Arf

Feza Gürsey

Fahrelnissa Zeid

Refik Anadol
Mimar Sinan
Sezen Aksu
Süleyman Demirel
Evliya Çelebi
Yılmaz Güney
Fatih Akın
Must-try Turkish food

İskender kebap
Sliced döner over torn pide, tomato sauce and melted butter. A Bursa invention.

Karnıyarık
Aubergine split and filled with minced lamb, onion and tomato, then baked.

Kuru fasulye
White beans in tomato sauce with rice. The everyday lunch, eaten everywhere.

İçli köfte
A bulgur shell around spiced lamb and walnut, boiled or fried. Southeastern.

Adana kebabı
Hand-minced lamb on a flat skewer, hot with pepper. Named for the city.

Beyti
Minced lamb wrapped in lavaş, sliced into rounds and set on yoghurt.

Haydari
Strained yoghurt with garlic and dried mint. The one that cools everything else.

Ezme
Raw tomato, pepper and onion chopped fine and sharpened with pomegranate molasses.

Balık ekmek
Grilled fish in half a loaf with onion and rocket, eaten by the Bosphorus.

Çiğ köfte
Bulgur kneaded with pepper paste and spices, now made without meat and wrapped in lettuce.

Kokoreç
Seasoned offal wound on a spit, chopped fine and served in bread. Late night.

Kumpir
A baked potato mashed with butter and cheese, then loaded from a counter of toppings.

Simit
A sesame ring sold from red carts. Breakfast, or whenever you pass one.

Lahmacun
Thin dough under minced lamb and pepper, rolled around parsley and lemon.

Pide
A boat of dough baked with cheese, egg or minced meat, cut into strips.

Poğaça
A soft savoury bun, filled or plain, that goes with the first tea of the day.

Baklava
Filo, pistachio and syrup. Gaziantep is where people go out of their way for it.

Türk kahvesi
Ground fine, brewed in a cezve, served with the grounds settling. Say how sweet first.

Şalgam
Fermented turnip and carrot juice, sour and salty. An Adana habit.
Mantı
Thumbnail dumplings under garlic yoghurt and chilli butter. Kayseri claims them.
Menemen
Eggs scrambled loose into peppers and tomato, scooped up with bread. Breakfast.
Urfa kebabı
The same skewer without the chilli. Milder, and the usual first order.
Şiş kebap
Cubed lamb or chicken over charcoal, served with grilled pepper and onion.
Köfte
Grilled meatballs, seasoned differently in every region that claims them.
Fava
Puréed broad beans set firm and cut into squares, with dill and lemon.
Patlıcan salatası
Smoked aubergine mashed with yoghurt or olive oil. Tastes of the charcoal.
Zeytinyağlı yaprak sarma
Vine leaves rolled around rice, pine nuts and currants, served cold.
Midye dolma
Mussels stuffed with spiced rice, sold by the shell with a wedge of lemon.
Börek
Layered yufka pastry with cheese, spinach or meat. Sold by weight, eaten warm.
Künefe
Shredded pastry over stretchy cheese, soaked in syrup and served hot.
Lokum
Turkish delight, best with pistachio or rose, dusted and never sticky.
Maraş dondurması
Ice cream thickened with salep and mastic, stiff enough to cut with a knife.
Sütlaç
Baked rice pudding with a scorched skin, eaten cold from a clay dish.
Çay
Black tea in a tulip glass, brewed in a stacked pot and drunk all day.
Ayran
Salted yoghurt whisked with water. The standard answer to a plate of kebab.
Salep
Hot orchid-root milk under cinnamon, sold on winter streets.







