Split the trip. On Trinidad, base in Port of Spain: the Savannah, the panyards, and a boat into the Caroni Swamp at dusk for the scarlet ibis. Cross the Northern Range to Maracas Bay, go east to Grande Riviere for leatherbacks from March to August, and bird the Arima Valley. Give Tobago the second week: Crown Point and Buccoo for reef and beaches, Speyside and Charlotteville for diving and rainforest. At Carnival, do Trinidad's road days first and cross afterwards.
1 Trinidad and Tobago city guide
Fun fact
On 1 August 1985 Trinidad and Tobago replaced Discovery Day with Emancipation Day, the first country to make the end of slavery a national holiday. The date marks 1 August 1838, when full emancipation took effect across the British Caribbean. It is kept with a procession and a night of drumming.
Stereotypes, sorted out
The realityIt is two islands that want different holidays. Trinidad is industrial, urban and Indo- and Afro-Caribbean, with Carnival, the food and the birding. Tobago is a small reef island with rainforest down its spine. Treating either as a side trip to the other is the commonest planning mistake.
The realityIt is a competitive season with a road finale. From Boxing Day the panyards rehearse in public, the calypso tents open, and Panorama and the Monarch contests run for weeks. J'Ouvert starts in the dark on Carnival Monday with mud, oil and paint, then the costumed bands parade. The beaches stay empty.
The realityTrinidad earns its living from oil and gas, not from tourism, and its coastline shows it. The beach holiday is on Tobago and on Trinidad's north coast; the rest of Trinidad is a working island that happens to hold one of the densest bird lists in the Americas.
The realityThe islands sit at the southern edge of the hurricane belt, and most systems track north. The wet season from June to December brings afternoon rain, seldom storms, and Tobago is more exposed than Trinidad. Season matters mostly for what is nesting, flowering or being celebrated.
The realityEnglish is the official language and the working one, everywhere. Trinidadian Creole is what you will actually hear, Spanish is widely taught and increasingly heard in Trinidad, and Trinidadian Hindustani survives in religious and musical use.
How to get it right
- A lime is the local word for hanging out, and it is an invitation, not an event. It has no start time, no agenda and often no fixed venue, and turning one down twice is noticed.
- Ask before photographing a masquerader, a panyard rehearsal or anyone in costume. Carnival looks public and much of it is deeply personal.
- Doubles is eaten standing at the stall, and the only question you will be asked is how much pepper. Say slight if you are unsure; there is no going back.
- Religious festivals are shared across faiths. Non-Hindus light deyas at Divali and non-Muslims watch the tadjahs at Hosay, but Hosay is a commemoration and not a carnival, so behave accordingly.
- Greet people before you ask them anything. A good morning first is not optional politeness here, and skipping it reads as rude.
- Tobago keeps its own pace and its own institutions, and referring to the whole country as Trinidad in front of a Tobagonian will be corrected, usually with good humour.
Famous Trinbagonian faces

Brian Lara

V. S. Naipaul

Machel Montano

Nicki Minaj

Calypso Rose

Hasely Crawford

C. L. R. James

Geoffrey Holder

Billy Ocean

Ellie Mannette

Dwight Yorke

Keshorn Walcott

Eric Williams

Kamla Persad-Bissessar

Anya Ayoung-Chee
Lord Kitchener
Peter Minshall
Earl Lovelace
Sam Selvon
Heather Headley
Winifred Atwell
Ato Boldon
Janelle Commissiong
Kwame Ture
Must-try Trinbagonian food

Doubles
Two fried baras around curried channa, with tamarind, shadon beni and pepper. Breakfast.

Bake and shark
Fried bread and fried shark with a build-your-own condiment bar. Eat it at Maracas Bay.

Pelau
Rice, pigeon peas and chicken in burnt sugar and coconut milk. At every beach lime.

Macaroni pie
Baked, sliceable macaroni cheese, taken as seriously as the meat beside it.

Stew chicken
Sugar burnt in oil until it turns, then the chicken goes in and takes the colour.

Corn soup
Split peas, corn and dumplings from a roadside pot. Late-night food after a fete.

Aloo pie
Fried dough pocket of spiced potato, split and filled with chutney and pepper sauce.

Sorrel
Hibiscus steeped with clove and ginger, served cold, often with rum. Christmas in a glass.
Buss up shut
Paratha beaten until it looks like a torn shirt, for mopping up curry.
Dhalpuri roti
Split-pea-filled skin wrapped round curried goat, chicken or duck. The usual order.
Curried duck
Cooked slowly outdoors, usually with rum involved. River-lime food, seldom on menus.
Curry crab and dumpling
Tobago's plate: blue crab in coconut curry with a heavy dumpling. Eaten by hand, messily.
Callaloo
Dasheen leaf, okra, coconut milk and often crab, blended smooth. Sunday lunch.
Souse
Pig trotter or chicken foot cured in lime, cucumber, onion and pepper. Saturday, cold.
Pholourie
Split-pea fritters sold by the bag, and never without tamarind chutney.
Black cake
Fruit soaked in rum for months, baked almost black. For Christmas and weddings.
Kurma
Fried dough sticks in ginger sugar glaze, sold at Divali and every Carnival fete.
Mauby
Tree bark boiled with spice, drunk cold and bitter. Acquired taste, worth acquiring.
Angostura bitters
Made in Laventille since the 1870s move from Venezuela, and in cocktails worldwide.



