A first trip is Bangkok for a few days, then the north or the coast, rarely both well. Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai give you temples, mountains and the country's best cooking schools within an hour's flight of the capital. The Andaman coast around Phuket and Krabi is the classic island run, and the Gulf islands are the alternative when the Andaman is under monsoon. The dry, cool window is November to February, and it is also the busiest.
3 Thailand city guides
Fun fact
Bangkok’s full ceremonial name runs to 168 letters, and is listed as the longest place name in the world.
Stereotypes, sorted out
The realityThe smile is a social tool with a wide range, and one of its jobs is to keep a difficult moment from becoming a confrontation. Raising your voice in public loses you the argument here, whatever the argument was about.
The realityIt was promoted nationally in the 1930s and 1940s under Prime Minister Plaek Phibunsongkhram, partly to push noodles over rice at a time of shortage. It is a modern invention with a state marketing campaign behind it.
The realityHeat is a regional dial, not a constant. Isan and southern cooking run hot, the central kitchen balances sweet, sour and salty as much as chilli, and a whole strand of Thai-Chinese food (noodle soups, braises, congee) is barely spiced at all.
The realityThe beaches are one corner of it. The north is mountains and hill towns, Isan in the northeast is a dry plateau with its own dialect and kitchen, and the central plain holds the ruined capitals of Ayutthaya and Sukhothai.
Cultural notes that actually help
- The wai is a greeting, not a performance. Return one when it is offered to you, and do not offer it first to shop staff or children.
- The head is the highest part of a person and the feet the lowest. Do not touch anyone's head, and never point your soles at a person or a Buddha image.
- Shoes come off at temples, at homes, and at plenty of small shops. If you see a rack by the door, use it.
- Cover shoulders and knees at temples. Wat Phra Kaew and the Grand Palace turn people away at the gate for this daily.
- The monarchy is protected by law. Criticism of the king or the royal family is a criminal offence under Section 112, and this includes what you post online while in the country.
- Monks do not take anything directly from a woman's hand. Place the offering down, or pass it through a man or a cloth.
Famous Thai faces

King Bhumibol Adulyadej

King Chulalongkorn

Apichatpong Weerasethakul

Tony Jaa

Lisa

Ariya Jutanugarn

Pen-ek Ratanaruang

Nonzee Nimibutr

Wisit Sasanatieng

Mario Maurer

Thongchai McIntyre

Tata Young

Samart Payakaroon

Buakaw Banchamek

Ratchanok Intanon

Chatri Sityodtong

Sunthorn Phu

Chart Korbjitti

Sumet Jumsai
Panipak Wongpattanakit
Thitid Tassanakajohn
Pumpuang Duangjan
Danupha Khanatheerakul
Kukrit Pramoj
Prince Damrong Rajanubhab
Duangrit Bunnag
Silpa Bhirasri
Jim Thompson
Supinya Junsuta
Chumpol Jangprai
Duangporn Songvisava
Chudaree Debhakam
Must-try Thai food

Pad thai
Rice noodles with tamarind, egg and peanut. Judged on the sourness, not the sweetness.

Tom yum goong
Hot and sour prawn soup, built on lemongrass, galangal and lime leaf.

Khao man gai
Poached chicken on rice cooked in its stock, carried by a ginger and soybean sauce.

Massaman curry
A Muslim-influenced curry with cardamom, cinnamon and potato, mild and slow.

Pad krapow
Minced pork or chicken fried hard with holy basil and chilli, under a fried egg.

Boat noodles
Dark, spiced beef or pork broth served in small bowls, once sold from canal boats.

Pad see ew
Wide rice noodles charred in dark soy with Chinese broccoli and egg.

Rad na
The same wide noodles under a thick gravy, ordered when pad see ew feels too dry.

Green curry
Fresh green chilli paste and coconut milk, the hottest of the standard curries.

Red curry
Dried red chilli paste, deeper and sweeter, usually with duck or pork.

Panang curry
Thick, peanut-rich and barely soupy, closer to a sauce than a curry.

Kaeng som
Sour orange curry with no coconut milk at all, sharp with tamarind.

Khao soi
Chiang Mai's curry noodle soup, topped with the same noodles fried crisp.

Nam tok
Grilled pork or beef sliced into a lime and toasted rice dressing.

Sai krok Isan
Fermented rice and pork sausage, sour by design, grilled and eaten with raw cabbage.

Khao niao
Sticky rice, eaten by hand in the north and northeast and served in a woven basket.

Mango sticky rice
Ripe mango, coconut-soaked sticky rice, salt. In season roughly March to May.

Tub tim krob
Water chestnut in red syrup with coconut milk and crushed ice.

Roti sai mai
Ayutthaya's speciality: spun palm sugar floss rolled into a thin green crepe.

Oliang
Iced black coffee cut with roasted grain, the pre-espresso Thai standard.
Tom kha gai
The coconut milk cousin to tom yum, gentler and made with chicken.
Som tam
Green papaya pounded with lime, chilli, fish sauce and palm sugar in a clay mortar.
Guay teow tom yum
Noodle soup in the hot and sour register, mixed to your own ratio at the table.
Ba mee haeng
Dry egg noodles with roast pork, the broth served on the side.
Khua kling
Southern dry curry, minced meat fried down with paste until nothing is left but heat.
Yam nua
Grilled beef salad with lime, chilli and mint, served warm.
Larb
Minced meat with toasted rice powder, lime and herbs, from the northeast.
Yam woon sen
Glass noodle salad with minced pork and prawn, cold and very sharp.
Som tam pu pla ra
Isan papaya salad with fermented fish and salted crab. Acquired taste, and the real one.
Gai yang
Marinated chicken grilled slowly over charcoal, eaten with sticky rice.
Moo ping
Sweet-marinated pork skewers sold from carts at dawn.
Kor moo yang
Grilled pork neck sliced thin, with a tamarind and chilli dip.
Pla pao
Whole fish packed in salt and grilled, cracked open at the table.
Hoy tod
Crisp mussel or oyster pancake, fried on a flat griddle with bean sprouts.
Sai ua
Northern herb sausage, heavy on lemongrass, galangal and kaffir lime.
Nam prik ong
Tomato and pork chilli relish, eaten with sticky rice and raw vegetables.
Gaeng hang lay
Burmese-influenced pork belly curry with ginger and tamarind, no coconut milk.
Tom saep
Clear, hot and sour Isan soup, usually pork ribs, sharper than tom yum.
Gaeng tai pla
Southern curry made with fermented fish innards, one of the hottest dishes in the country.
Roti
Flatbread from the Muslim south, folded and fried, with curry or with condensed milk.
Pla tod kamin
Fish fried with turmeric and garlic, a fixture of the Andaman coast.
Kanom jeen nam ya
Fermented rice noodles under a fish curry sauce, with a tray of raw herbs alongside.
Kanom krok
Coconut and rice flour cakes cooked in a dimpled pan, crisp outside and molten within.
Cha yen
Thai iced tea, orange with condensed and evaporated milk, sweeter than you expect.
Nam manao
Fresh lime soda, the thing to order when the som tam gets away from you.
Nam matoom
Bael fruit tea, dried and steeped, mildly sweet and served hot or cold.





