Land at Argyle International and decide the split. Saint Vincent is big, steep and green: Kingstown's market and 1765 Botanic Gardens, the leeward road to the Dark View Falls, and La Soufrière as a full day out. Bequia, an hour by ferry, needs no plan. Mustique is villas, Canouan marinas, Mayreau one village. Union Island is the kitesurfing end and the jump to the Tobago Cays. Eight days covers Saint Vincent and Bequia, twelve the south. A boat sees the chain best.
Fun fact
The Caribbean's breadfruit came ashore here. Captain Bligh landed the first surviving trees at Kingstown in January 1793 on HMS Providence, five years after the Bounty mutiny ended his first try, and planted them in the 1765 Botanic Gardens. Roast breadfruit with jackfish is now the national dish.
Stereotypes, sorted out
The realitySaint Vincent is another kind of trip. Young volcanic rock gives it mostly dark-sand beaches, plus rainforest, waterfalls, a live volcano and a working port for a capital. The pale beaches are in the Grenadines, an hour or more by boat. Expect one half to be the other and one will disappoint.
The realitySailing is the best way to see them, and not the only one. Bequia, Canouan and Union Island have ferries from Kingstown and airstrips, and Bequia works as an ordinary week with guesthouses. Mustique, privately run, is the exception. Elsewhere a public boat and a Tobago Cays day charter do it.
The realityYou can see Saint Vincent and Bequia in a week. The chain runs about 70 kilometres to Union Island, the ferries take hours, and each change of island can eat a day at both ends. Add the southern Grenadines and you want ten to twelve days, or a boat that moves while you sleep.
The realityLa Soufrière erupted explosively in April 2021, emptied the north of the island and covered the country in ash, and has been quiet since. The University of the West Indies Seismic Research Centre monitors it and publishes alert levels. The trail has reopened: check the level and climb with a guide.
Cultural notes that actually help
- Greet before you ask. A good morning or good afternoon comes before the question, in a shop, on a bus or at a jetty, and skipping it reads as rude.
- Swimwear stays at the beach. Cover up for town, for the bus and for anywhere with a counter, and dress properly for church, which is still the fixed point of a Vincentian Sunday.
- Ask before photographing people, and particularly before photographing fishermen at work in Barrouallie or the whaling station at Paget Farm. Both are livelihoods and both attract visitors who treat them as a spectacle.
- The Tobago Cays are a park with rules, not an anchorage. Park fees apply, anchoring is restricted to protect the reef, and the turtle-watching area is buoyed off for swimmers only.
- Hurricane Beryl went through the southern Grenadines on 1 July 2024 and destroyed most of the housing on Union Island and Mayreau. People rebuilt and are still rebuilding. It is a normal thing to ask about and a poor thing to sightsee.
- Buses are minibuses with a conductor and a sound system, and they leave when full. Flag one down, say where you are getting off, and pay when you leave.
Famous Vincentian faces

Sir James Fitz-Allen Mitchell

Adonal Foyle

Shafiqua Maloney

Ralph Gonsalves
Joseph Chatoyer
Kevin Lyttle
Skinny Fabulous
Alston "Becket" Cyrus
Sophia Young-Malcolm
Sir Godwin Friday
Kineke Alexander
Ezra Hendrickson
Sunil Ambris
Obed McCoy
Kesrick Williams
Must-try Vincentian food

Fish broth
Clear, peppery soup of the day's fish and provisions. Ask for "fish broff".

Hairoun
National lager, brewed in Kingstown since 1985 and named for the island in Kalinago.
Roast breadfruit and fried jackfish
National dish: breadfruit roasted black over coals, with lime-marinated fried jackfish.
Callaloo soup
Dasheen leaves stewed with coconut milk, okra and meat. The Sunday soup.
Buljol
Raw flaked salt fish with tomato, onion, pepper and lime. Breakfast, with bakes.
Souse
Pork or chicken pickled in lime, cucumber, onion and hot pepper. Saturday, from the pot.
Bakes
Fried dough, crisp outside, split and filled with salt fish or cheese. Working breakfast.
Tri-tri cakes
Whitebait from the river mouths, fried into fritters. Rare elsewhere and worth a detour.
Lambi
Conch, stewed with onion and thyme or curried. Best fresh off the boat in the Grenadines.
Grilled lobster
Spiny lobster grilled on Grenadine beaches. The closed season runs through summer.
Ground provisions
Dasheen, eddoes, yam, sweet potato and green banana, boiled. The starch on most plates.
Arrowroot
Grown commercially around Owia, one of few places left. A thickener, porridge and biscuit.
Coconut sugar cake
Grated coconut boiled with sugar and ginger and set in squares, sometimes pink.
Mauby
Bittersweet drink of mauby bark and spice. An acquired taste for about three days.
Sorrel
Hibiscus sepals steeped with ginger and clove, drunk cold at Christmas and Nine Mornings.
Sunset Very Strong
Overproof rum at 84.5 per cent. Mixed, never neat, and kept out of hand baggage.
