Pick the end of the island before the hotel. The south is where almost everyone sleeps: Grand Anse for the beach, Saint George's twenty minutes north. The west coast is the day out: the Molinere sculptures, the falls, Gouyave's nutmeg station and Friday fish fry. The interior is Grand Etang, the crater lake and the trails. The east around Grenville has estates, not beaches. Carriacou and Petite Martinique are a second trip by ferry or short flight, still rebuilding after Hurricane Beryl.
1 Grenada city guide
Fun fact
Hurricane Ivan crossed Grenada on 7 September 2004, damaged about 90 per cent of its buildings and took out an estimated 80 per cent of the nutmeg trees. Production fell from more than 4,870 tonnes in 2003 to about 440 by 2006. Only Indonesia produces more nutmeg today.
Stereotypes, sorted out
The realityThe spice is the economy, not the theme. Nutmeg and mace are the signature agricultural exports, the processing station at Gouyave is a working plant that takes visitors, and the cocoa behind Grenville becomes bars on the island. The beach is real and so is the farm.
The realityIt sits near the southern edge of the belt, where the odds are lower but not zero. Ivan crossed in 2004 and damaged about 90 per cent of buildings. Beryl hit Carriacou and Petite Martinique as a Category 4 storm in July 2024 and destroyed most of the housing. Insure, and book September flexibly.
The realityThe chain is split between two countries. Carriacou and Petite Martinique, the Southern Grenadines, belong to Grenada. Bequia, Mustique, Union Island and the rest belong to Saint Vincent and the Grenadines. The boundary matters for ferries, flights and immigration.
The realityIt is small and slow. The middle is mountain, the roads follow the coast or the valleys, and a loop on the map is often an out-and-back. Plan in half-days: the west coast and the falls are one, Grand Etang and the east another. Carriacou is a separate trip with a boat in it.
The realityThey are within living memory and openly discussed. Maurice Bishop led the 1979 revolution that removed Eric Gairy and was killed by factions of his own party in October 1983, days before the United States invaded. The international airport carries his name. Listen first, and keep your verdict.
How to behave
- Greet before you ask. Good morning or good afternoon comes first in a shop, a bus or at a stall, and skipping it reads as rude.
- Cover up off the beach. Swimwear in a shop, a bank or a restaurant is taken as bad manners, and a shirt and shoes are the minimum in town.
- Ask before photographing people, especially at the market and on the fishing beaches. A camera pointed at someone working is not a neutral act.
- Sunday is church and family. Plan a slow morning, a beach or a long lunch.
- Agree the price before the service, whether that is a taxi, a boat, a guide or a beach chair. It is normal practice and gives no offence.
- The revolution and 1983 come up in conversation, and Grenadians hold a range of views on them. Ask, listen, and leave your verdict at home.
- On Carriacou, Beryl is recent. Residents will talk about the storm and the rebuild openly, and treating the damage as a photo opportunity lands badly.
Famous Grenadian faces

Anderson Peters

Mighty Sparrow
Kirani James
Lindon Victor
Junior Murray
Maurice Bishop
Sir Eric Gairy
T. A. Marryshow
Dame Cécile La Grenade
Dickon Mitchell
Mr. Killa
Merle Collins
Must-try Grenadian food

Oil down
The national dish: breadfruit, salt meat, dumplings and callaloo stewed in coconut milk.
Callaloo soup
Dasheen leaves, coconut milk, okra and salt meat or crab, cooked to a thick green soup.
Lambi
Conch, slow-stewed in creole seasoning or curried. Tough if hurried, excellent if not.
Crab back
Land crab picked, seasoned and baked back in its own shell. Fiddly and rich.
Saltfish and bake
Fried dough split and filled with seasoned salt cod. Breakfast on the way to work.
Roti
Curried chicken, goat or vegetables in a soft flatbread. An Indo-Caribbean counter lunch.
Breadfruit
Roasted over coals or boiled beside the fish. A staple, and the backbone of oil down.
Pepper sauce
Scotch bonnet, mustard and vinegar on every table. Start with less than you think.
Nutmeg ice cream
Fresh-grated nutmeg in ice cream, the obvious use of the national crop and still the best.
Nutmeg syrup and jam
The fleshy pericarp around the nut, boiled into syrup, jam or a candied sweet.
Tree-to-bar chocolate
Cocoa grown, fermented and made into bars on the island. The souvenir worth the luggage.
Cocoa tea
Local cocoa grated from a stick, boiled with spice and milk. A thick, sweet breakfast.
Rivers rum
Overproof rum from River Antoine, founded in 1785 and still driven by a water wheel.
Clarke's Court and Westerhall
The two larger distilleries behind most of the island's punch. Both take visitors.
