Give Havana four nights: the old town, Centro and Vedado are three different cities. Then go west to Viñales for the tobacco valley, or east along the spine: Cienfuegos for the waterfront, Trinidad for the cobbles, Santa Clara for the revolution’s battlefield. Further on, Camagüey and Santiago de Cuba hold the more Caribbean half, with Baracoa at the far end. Varadero and Cayo Coco are the beaches. March, April and November are dry and quieter.
2 Cuba city guides
Fun fact
The bee hummingbird, the smallest bird on earth at about 6 cm and under 2 grams, lives only in Cuba.
Stereotypes, sorted out
The realityThe cars are real and so is the peeling paint, but the country has changed twice over. The dual currency went in 2021, private small businesses were legalised the same year, and mobile data reached ordinary phones in 2018. What looks like preservation is mostly scarcity.
The realityThere were. The convertible peso (CUC) was withdrawn in 2021 and the Cuban peso is now the only legal currency. The country has since partly dollarised, so some shops price in US dollars and the rest in pesos. What you need is cash you brought with you.
The realityThey can, and thousands do. US law restricts the reason: travel must fall under one of twelve general licence categories, and beach tourism is not one. Most go under "Support for the Cuban People": private homes, private restaurants, and records kept for five years.
The realityIt is not. Shortages mean much of what a visitor buys is imported and priced to match, and payment is unforgiving: US cards have never worked and other foreign cards are unreliable. Budget in cash, and expect a guesthouse dinner to cost what it would in southern Europe.
The realityThe best meals, the best rooms and most of the interesting shops are private. Casas particulares have been legal since 1997 and paladares since the early nineties, and the 2021 reform let both incorporate properly. State hotels and state restaurants still exist and are rarely the better choice.
Cultural notes that actually help
- Bring every peso you plan to spend, in cash, in clean and undamaged notes. Cards issued in the United States do not work at all, other foreign cards have become unreliable, and there is no way to fix a shortfall once you are there.
- Power cuts are part of the day, not an emergency. The national grid has collapsed repeatedly since 2024 and rolling blackouts are routine outside the resort strips. Carry a power bank and a torch, and choose a guesthouse with a generator if you need one.
- Stay in casas particulares. A licensed private room costs less than a state hotel, the breakfast is better, and your host is the person who will find you a colectivo, a mechanic or a doctor.
- Ask before photographing people, and expect to be asked for something in return by anyone in costume in Old Havana. That is a job, not a scam, and a small note settles it.
- Tip in cash and in the local currency. Ten percent covers a sit-down meal, and small notes matter more than the amount because change is hard to come by.
- Do not drink the tap water anywhere, including Havana. Bottled or properly filtered water only, and that includes the ice outside established restaurants.
- Politics is discussed freely with visitors and carefully in public. Listen more than you push, and never put someone’s name to an opinion online.
Famous Cuban faces

Celia Cruz

Fidel Castro

Alicia Alonso

Javier Sotomayor

Ana de Armas

Benny Moré

Ibrahim Ferrer

Omara Portuondo

Chucho Valdés

Gloria Estefan

Teófilo Stevenson

Mijaín López

Omar Linares

Guillermo Cabrera Infante

Nicolás Guillén

Carlos Acosta

Lizt Alfonso

Camilo Cienfuegos
José Martí
Compay Segundo
Wifredo Lam
Arturo Sandoval
Silvio Rodríguez
Ernesto Lecuona
Camila Cabello
Ana Fidelia Quirot
Andy García
Tomás Gutiérrez Alea
Alejo Carpentier
Reinaldo Arenas
Amelia Peláez
René Portocarrero
Carlos Manuel de Céspedes
Vilma Espín
Must-try Cuban food

Ropa vieja
Shredded beef stewed with peppers, onion and tomato. Usually called the national dish.

Picadillo a la habanera
Ground beef with olives, raisins and capers, spooned over white rice.

Ajiaco
Root vegetables and several meats in one pot, the oldest dish on the island.

Flan
Caramel custard, the default dessert and rarely a bad one.

Arroz con leche
Rice pudding heavy with cinnamon and lime peel.

Mojito
White rum, lime, sugar, mint and soda. Havana’s most successful export after the cigar.

Cuba libre
Rum and cola with a squeeze of lime, named for the independence slogan.
Lechón asado
Whole pig slow-roasted over coals, the centre of Christmas Eve and every celebration.
Vaca frita
Beef boiled, shredded, then fried crisp with lime and raw onion.
Fricasé de pollo
Chicken braised with potato and olives, the standard weekday dinner.
Tamal en cazuela
Fresh corn cooked down to a soft mash with pork. The tamal without the husk.
Moros y cristianos
Black beans cooked into the rice until the grains turn dark. It comes with everything.
Congrí
The eastern version, red beans and rice cooked together with pork fat.
Arroz con pollo
Rice and chicken cooked in one pot, gold with annatto.
Tostones
Green plantain smashed flat and fried twice, salted while hot.
Maduros
Ripe plantain fried soft and sweet, the counterweight to everything salty.
Yuca con mojo
Boiled cassava under garlic, sour orange and hot oil.
Pan con lechón
Roast pork in a bread roll with raw onion, eaten standing up anywhere on the island.
Frita cubana
A beef and chorizo patty under a nest of shoestring potatoes, in a bun.
Croquetas
Ham or chicken béchamel, breaded and fried, sold from every counter.
Pan con timba
Bread, a slab of guava paste and white cheese. The cheapest snack there is.
Langosta a la plancha
Caribbean spiny lobster grilled with garlic butter, easiest to find on the south coast.
Camarones al ajillo
Shrimp in garlic and oil, with bread to finish the pan.
Pargo frito
Whole red snapper fried, usually with rice and tostones alongside.
Enchilado de mariscos
Seafood in a light tomato and pepper sauce. Despite the name, not hot.
Cucurucho
Coconut, honey and fruit packed into a palm-leaf cone. A Baracoa speciality.
Guayaba con queso
Guava paste and white cheese, eaten in the same mouthful on purpose.
Dulce de leche cortada
Milk curdled with lime and cooked down with sugar, an old country dessert.
Daiquirí
Rum, lime and sugar, shaken cold. El Floridita froze it and never looked back.
Café cubano
Espresso whipped with sugar as it brews, served in a thimble and drunk in one.
Guarapo
Sugar cane pressed to order and drunk cold, with lime if you ask.
Ron añejo
Aged rum drunk neat. The reason the cocktails work.
Malta
Sweet, dark, non-alcoholic malt drink, sometimes cut with condensed milk.






