Start in Dhaka for the Mughal old city, the river ghats and Louis Kahn's parliament, then pick one direction and commit to it. South-west for the Sundarbans and the mosque city of Bagerhat. South-east for the beach at Cox's Bazar and the hills above Bandarban. North-east for the tea gardens around Srimangal. The dry window runs November to February, when the roads and the river routes both run to timetable.
2 Bangladesh city guides
Fun fact
Bangladesh has three UNESCO World Heritage sites and five entries on UNESCO's intangible cultural heritage list, including Jamdani weaving in 2013 and, in 2023, the rickshaws and rickshaw painting of Dhaka.
Stereotypes, sorted out
The realityFlooding is real, seasonal and concentrated in the monsoon, and the country has built one of the world's most effective cyclone warning and shelter systems around it. Travel between November and February and you will not see any of it.
The realityThe language, the literature and the calendar are Bengali, and the cooking is its own. Hilsa in mustard, Sylheti shatkora beef and Chattogram's mezban are made nowhere else.
The realityThree UNESCO World Heritage sites: the Sundarbans mangrove forest, the fifteenth-century mosque city of Bagerhat, and the Buddhist vihara at Paharpur.
The realityTourist numbers are low, which is exactly why it is easy. English is used in hotels and on signage, invitations to tea arrive constantly, and the country is small enough to cross by train.
Cultural notes that actually help
- Eat with your right hand, and expect a second helping to land before you have finished the first.
- Take your shoes off before entering a home or a mosque, and cover shoulders and knees at religious sites.
- The weekend is Friday and Saturday. Government offices close, and Friday midday prayers empty the streets for an hour.
- Assalamu alaikum works as a greeting anywhere in the country, and gets a warmer answer than hello.
- Ask before photographing people, particularly women, and expect to be asked for a photograph yourself.
- Alcohol is not sold openly. A few licensed hotel bars exist in Dhaka and Chattogram, and most meals are dry.
Famous Bangladeshi faces
Muhammad Yunus
Sheikh Mujibur Rahman
Kazi Nazrul Islam
Fazlur Rahman Khan
Sir Fazle Hasan Abed
Shakib Al Hasan
Zainul Abedin
Humayun Ahmed
Mashrafe Bin Mortaza
Niaz Murshed
Musa Ibrahim
Nishat Majumder
Begum Rokeya
Tahmima Anam
Muhammed Zafar Iqbal
Marina Tabassum
SM Sultan
Tareque Masud
Zahir Raihan
Runa Laila
Sabina Yasmin
Ayub Bachchu
Must-try Bangladeshi food
Shorshe ilish
Hilsa, the national fish, poached in a mustard seed paste. Bony, and worth the work.
Panta bhat
Rice left overnight in water, eaten with fried hilsa, green chilli and raw onion. The Bengali new year breakfast.
Bhorta
Anything mashed with mustard oil, onion and chilli: potato, aubergine, dried fish. Every meal carries one.
Bhuna khichuri
Rice and lentils cooked down with spice, beef or egg. What the country eats when it rains.
Chingri malaikari
Prawns in a coconut milk gravy, served in the shell.
Kacchi biryani
Raw marinated mutton and rice baked together over a layer of potato. Old Dhaka's wedding dish.
Morog polao
Chicken and fragrant rice, milder than biryani and the standard for a family occasion.
Beef tehari
Short-grain rice fried yellow with beef and mustard oil. Lunch, from a cart, in a foil box.
Bakarkhani
A layered, biscuit-hard flatbread from Old Dhaka, broken into a glass of tea.
Mezban beef
The Chattogram feast dish: beef in a heavy spice paste, cooked for a whole neighbourhood at once.
Kala bhuna
Beef fried down with spice until it turns almost black. Chattogram's other signature.
Shatkora beef
Beef cooked with shatkora, the bitter Sylheti citrus that cuts straight through the fat.
Shutki
Dried fish, pounded into a fierce bhorta. The taste that divides the country.
Fuchka
Hollow crisp shells filled with spiced potato and tamarind water, eaten in one bite.
Chotpoti
Chickpeas, potato and boiled egg in a tangy broth, with a wedge of lime on top.
Jhalmuri
Puffed rice tossed with mustard oil, chilli and raw onion, handed over in a paper cone.
Mishti doi
Sweet yoghurt set in a clay pot, caramel brown and eaten with a spoon.
Chomchom
Dense oval sweets from Porabari in Tangail, rolled in khoya.
Roshogolla
Spongy cheese balls in sugar syrup, served cold at the end of anything.
Pitha
Winter rice cakes, steamed or fried, filled with date molasses and coconut.
Cha
Milky, heavily sugared tea from a roadside stall, in a glass. The country's default pause.
Seven-layer tea
Srimangal's party trick: seven tea strengths stacked in one glass without mixing.
Borhani
Spiced, salted yoghurt drink, poured beside biryani to cut the richness.


