Start in the Centro Histórico: the Mercado Público for lunch and a Bomba Royal, Praça da Alfândega and MARGS, then the Casa de Cultura Mario Quintana. Walk the waterfront to the Usina do Gasômetro for sunset over the Guaíba. Give a Sunday to the Brique da Redenção, an evening to churrasco, and a third day to the Vale dos Vinhedos wineries.
Porto Alegre is the capital of Rio Grande do Sul, Brazil's southernmost state, built on the east shore of Lake Guaíba. It is gaúcho country: churrasco, chimarrão and a September horse parade. The old centre is walkable, and the Serra Gaúcha wine towns are two hours north.
The city's market hall, open since 1869 and reopened after the May 2024 flood. Lunch on Portuguese seafood at Gambrinus, upstairs since 1889, then order a Bomba Royal at Banca 40.
A 1920s coal power station turned cultural centre, reopened in August 2025 after a five-year restoration. The Orla promenade beside it is where the city gathers for sunset over the Guaíba.
Álvaro Siza's white concrete museum on the riverbank, his first building in Brazil and a Golden Lion winner at the 2002 Venice Architecture Biennale. It holds the painter Iberê Camargo's work and strong temporary shows.
The Sunday antiques, crafts and art fair along the edge of Parque Farroupilha, running since 1978. Come for the street musicians and the families with chimarrão as much as the stalls.
The pink former Hotel Majestic, where the poet Mario Quintana lived, is now a state arts centre with cinemas, galleries and a library. Go up to the rooftop terrace for the view across the Guaíba.
The state art museum, founded in 1954, in Theo Wiederspahn's former tax office on the square. Its collection runs from 19th-century gaúcho painters to contemporary Brazilian art.
The hilltop square of state power: the Catedral Metropolitana, the Palácio Piratini and the Theatro São Pedro, opened in 1858. The free Caminhos da Matriz tours have opened the buildings on the last Saturday of the month.
Opened by the Aita family in the 1930s and counted as Brazil's oldest churrascaria. Order the costela and the picanha; this is the city's signature meal and the reason to arrive hungry.
About 500 metres of tipuana trees forming a closed green tunnel over a residential street. In 2006 it became the first street in Latin America protected as heritage for its trees.
Brazil's best-known wine valley, settled by Italian immigrants, about 120 km north of the city. Base yourself in Bento Gonçalves and book tastings at two or three wineries.
A cultural centre in a 1930s bank hall under a stained-glass skylight, with a café in the old vault.
Rodízio with a gaúcho folk-dance show during dinner. Touristy, and fun for a first night.
Portuguese seafood and bolinhos de bacalhau upstairs in the Mercado Público, open since 1889.
An 1885 iron-and-glass pavilion on Praça XV, for cold chope and the bifão na chapa.
Open since 1980 above Osvaldo Aranha: lunch by day, bands and dance nights after dark.
Redenção, the central park, with a lake, the Sunday Brique and chimarrão crowds.
Parcão, opened in 1972, with a replica Azorean windmill and a jogging loop.
A two-hour steam train between Bento Gonçalves, Garibaldi and Carlos Barbosa, with tastings.
The Itaimbezinho canyon, cut into the plateau edge near Cambará do Sul. A long day by car.
A procession carries Nossa Senhora dos Navegantes from the centre to her sanctuary.
Samba school parades and street blocos across the city.
The city marks its 1772 founding with free events and open museums.
The city's official day for its two rituals, on the calendar since 2023.
The state's huge livestock and farm fair, in Esteio, 20 km north.
The international performing arts festival, on a dozen stages across the city.
Gaúcho camps fill Parque da Harmonia; horsemen parade on 20 September.
An open-air book fair on Praça da Alfândega every year since 1955.
The city airport, a short drive north-east of the centre, reopened in October 2024 after the floods. Take a ride app or taxi, or Trensurb from Aeroporto station.
The metro line from Mercado station in the centre north through Canoas and Esteio to Novo Hamburgo. Useful for the airport and Expointer.
The intercity bus station north of the centre, with frequent coaches to Bento Gonçalves, Gramado and Canela, and long-distance routes.
Buses cover the city but are slow to learn. Ride apps are cheap and the easy way between the centre, Moinhos and Cidade Baixa at night.
Beef grilled over embers with coarse salt; ask for costela.
Rice cooked with dried beef or leftover churrasco.
Tapioca pearls cooked in red wine, served with custard.
Bitter yerba mate sipped from a gourd and shared.
The gaúcho cheeseburger, pressed flat; xis coração is the local favourite.
Spring chicken grilled the Italian-immigrant way, served with pasta.
A German-style crumb cake, from the immigrant towns.
Banca 40's ice cream, fruit salad and cream, a Mercado classic.
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