Give Niš two days. Day one is the centre: the fortress through the Stambol Gate, King Milan Square, then lunch on Kazandžijsko sokače and the Archaeological Hall. Day two is the hard history and the Romans: the Skull Tower, Mediana, the Red Cross camp and Bubanj. Add a third for Niška Banja and the Sićevo Gorge.
Niš is Serbia's third city and its oldest crossroads: Roman Naissus, birthplace of Constantine the Great, then an Ottoman fortress town on the road to Istanbul. It wears that history openly, from a tower of skulls to a Nazi camp kept as it was, and eats better than its size suggests.
The walls are Ottoman, built in the 1720s on Roman, Byzantine and medieval foundations. Inside sit a Roman street, the Bali-beg Mosque and a hammam, and in August the plateau hosts Nišville.
Built in 1809 from the skulls of Serbian rebels killed at the Battle of Čegar, it once held 952; 58 remain, inside an 1890s chapel. It is small, quiet and unlike anything else in Europe.
The 4th-century imperial residence of Constantine and his sons, with a peristyle villa, baths and a granary. The villa's floor mosaics are the reason to come, and a Medusa medallion is the one to find.
The Germans opened this camp in 1941; on 12 February 1942, 147 unarmed prisoners rushed the guards and 105 got out. The museum, in the camp building itself, tells the story without softening it.
One room of the National Museum, covering about 6000 BC to the 15th century: marble statues, Roman weapons, coins and jewellery from Naissus. It is the cleanest primer before Mediana.
Tinkers' Alley is the last Ottoman-era lane in the centre, a cobbled block of low houses that once held coppersmiths. Now it is kafanas and cafe terraces, and the best place in town for a long lunch outdoors.
The seat of the Eparchy of Niš, consecrated in 1878 once the Ottomans left. Bombed in 1944 and burnt in 2001, it has been rebuilt twice, and the restored interior is brighter for it.
Three concrete fists, about 18 to 23 metres tall, rise out of the meadow where thousands of camp prisoners were shot. Sized as a man's, a woman's and a child's, they are among the strongest Yugoslav memorials anywhere.
A spa suburb with radon-rich thermal water at 36 to 38°C and a long shaded park. The park and promenade are free; the thermal pools belong to the treatment institute.
The Nišava cuts 17 km through limestone here, with cliffs up to 400 metres and golden eagles over the Gradište canyon. It is a nature park with climbing routes, and the drive alone repays the hour.
A mosque until 1878, re-consecrated after liberation; its bell tower dates from 1926.
Black marble and a bronze rider, unveiled in 1937 on King Milan Square.
Two kilometres of cliffs, over 230 bolted climbing routes and the rare Serbian ramonda.
City Day, marking 11 January 1878. Wreaths at the Monument to the Liberators.
Badnjak oak branches burn outside the churches on the eve, 6 January.
Each 12 February the camp marks the 1942 escape with a commemoration.
The regional travel fair at Čair hall, in its 26th edition in 2026.
Burek Days: four days of bakers on the Nišava quay, over 20,000 visitors.
Southeast Europe's big jazz festival, on the fortress plateau.
An actors' festival founded in 1966, usually in late August at the fortress.
The Niš International Music Festival, classical concerts into November.
About 4 km west of the centre, with Air Serbia and Wizz Air routes. Bus 34A runs into town.
The fastest way to Belgrade, about 3 hours. Niš-Ekspres also runs daily to Sofia and Skopje.
Srbijavoz runs a few trains a day to Belgrade, slower than the bus at about 5 to 6 hours.
City buses have been free for everyone since 1 July 2025. The centre itself is easily walked.
Flaky pie with meat or cheese. Niš claims the best in Serbia.
The southern Serbian grilled patty, often stuffed with cheese.
Small grilled minced-meat rolls, with onion and lepinja bread.
A fiery spread of white cheese and hot pepper. Every meal starts here.
Cabbage or vine leaves rolled around minced meat, cooked slow.
Layered filo and cheese pie, eaten with sour milk.
A grill-house stew of leftover meats with peppers and onion.
Roasted red pepper relish, made at home every autumn.
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