The best things to do in Lagos are the cliff path to Ponta da Piedade, a boat into its grottoes, a swim at Praia Dona Ana, the gilded church of Santo António and the walk along the cliffs to Praia da Luz. Give it three days: one for the town, one for the coast, and one for Sagres and Cabo de São Vicente.
Lagos is the western Algarve in one walled town: a fishing port on the Bensafrim river, a Renaissance church lined with gold, and a coast of ochre cliffs, sea stacks and coves a short walk away. Prince Henry sent his caravels south from here.
Golden sandstone stacks, arches and grottoes off a lighthouse headland, the picture the Algarve sells itself on. Walk out from Praia Dona Ana on the boardwalks, about half an hour each way, and come at sunset when the rock turns orange.
Small boats and kayaks slip under the arches and into the sea caves below Ponta da Piedade, which you cannot see from the top. Trips leave from the riverfront and take 60 to 90 minutes. Go in the morning, when the sea is calmer and the light is inside the caves.
A cove of golden sand between sandstone cliffs and stacks, twenty minutes on foot from the old town. Reach it by a long wooden stair. It fills by noon in July and August, so arrive early or wait for the late afternoon.
A plain church outside, and inside one of Portugal's great baroque interiors, carved and gilded wall to ceiling and rebuilt after the 1755 earthquake. The entry runs through the Museu Municipal Dr. José Formosinho, a cabinet of curiosities worth an hour.
In 1444 a Portuguese expedition returned to Lagos with 235 enslaved Africans, sold here in the first slave market of modern Europe. The small museum on the site tells that story without softening it, and takes about forty minutes.
Lagos keeps long stretches of its walls and bastions, with lanes of whitewashed houses and tiled fronts inside. Start at Praça Gil Eanes and its 1973 King Sebastian by João Cutileiro, then follow the walls down to the river gate.
The last stage of the Rota Vicentina Fishermen's Trail follows the cliffs from Lagos past Ponta da Piedade and Porto de Mós to Luz, about 12 km. It takes three to four hours with a long climb over the headland. Take the bus back.
East of the marina the cliffs give way to about 4 km of open sand and dunes, the beach that never runs out of room. It is the kitesurfers' beach when the wind is up. Walk over the river footbridge from the marina.
The municipal market faces the river: fish and shellfish on the ground floor, fruit and vegetables above, and a terrace on top over the bay. Come early, when the night's catch is on the slabs.
The southwest corner of Europe: the Sagres fortress on its flat promontory and, 6 km on, the lighthouse cape over sheer cliffs. It is about 40 minutes by car. Stay for sunset at the cape and bring a jacket, as the wind is relentless.
A 17th-century fort guarding the harbour mouth. Sea damage has closed it before, so check.
A 16th-century fair fills Praça do Infante for five days, with traders in period dress.
25 April marks the 1974 revolution, and the town's main shopping street carries the date.
The national day on 10 June honours the poet Camões; a public holiday.
Street parades, grilled sardines and an arraial in Praça do Infante in mid-June.
Five nights of Algarve sweets, crafts and free concerts at the sports complex.
The 15 August holiday is the peak of the summer; book rooms and tables ahead.
27 October honours São Gonçalo de Lagos with a procession and a blessing of the boats.
Lights in the old town and a seasonal market with crafts and food stalls.
The Algarve's airport is about 80 km east, roughly 70 minutes by the A22. Or take a taxi to Faro station and the train west.
Lagos is the western end of the CP regional line from Faro, about 1 hr 45 min. From Lisbon, change at Tunes.
Rede Expressos coaches run from Lisbon; Vamus buses link the terminal to Faro, Portimão, Luz and Sagres.
The old town, the river and the beaches to Ponta da Piedade are all walkable. Hire a car for Sagres and the hills.
Clams, prawns and fish steamed in a hinged copper pan, made for two.
Whole sardines grilled over charcoal on bread, best in summer.
Octopus, grilled or baked with potatoes, garlic and olive oil.
Soupy shellfish rice, served in the pot at the table.
Cornmeal porridge cooked with cockles or clams.
Skinned horse mackerel dressed with oil, vinegar and garlic.
Egg-yolk threads and almond, wrapped in bright foil.
Strong spirit distilled from the arbutus berry of the hills.
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