Climb the cathedral roof first, on the €5 ticket that also covers the cloister and museum, then walk past the Roman temple to the Capela dos Ossos at São Francisco. Spend the afternoon on Rua 5 de Outubro and under the aqueduct arches on Rua do Cano, and eat Alentejo pork in a small tasca. Day two goes out to the Almendres stone circle and a Cartuxa tasting.
Évora is the walled capital of the Alentejo, on UNESCO's list since 1986, and small enough to cross on foot in twenty minutes. A Roman temple, a Gothic cathedral and a chapel lined with bones sit within a few streets of each other. Cork plains and wine estates start at the walls.
Portugal's largest medieval cathedral sells one €5 ticket for the nave, the Gothic cloister, the sacred art museum and the roof terrace, the highest point in Évora. Go up first, while the light is low over the walls and the plain.
Franciscan friars lined this 17th-century chapel with thousands of bones from the convent's burial grounds, as a lesson in how short life is. The €7 ticket also opens the museum and the Galilé terrace; the church itself is free.
Fourteen Corinthian columns of the 1st-century temple still stand on their podium, many capitals carved from Estremoz marble. It was built for the imperial cult, not Diana. Come back after dark, when it is lit.
The main square takes its name from Geraldo Sem Pavor, who took the city from the Moors, and its 1571 marble fountain has eight spouts. Rua 5 de Outubro climbs from it to the cathedral, lined with shops selling Alentejo blankets, pottery and azulejos.
Francisco de Arruda's Água de Prata aqueduct was inaugurated in 1537 and runs about 18 km into town. On Rua do Cano the arches drop to door height and houses, shops and cafés fill the spans.
Ninety-five granite monoliths make the Cromeleque dos Almendres the largest stone enclosure in Iberia, about 12 km west of Évora among cork oaks. Go at sunrise or sunset, and walk on to the lone menhir nearby.
The Cadaval palace beside the temple sells a €6 ticket that includes the Igreja dos Lóios, its walls lined with azulejos. Open Tuesday to Sunday, with a lunch break from 13:00 to 14:00.
Cardinal Henrique founded Portugal's second university here in 1559, and Pombal shut it in 1759. The €3 visit to the Colégio do Espírito Santo runs Monday to Saturday through cloisters still used by students.
The national museum in the old bishops' palace holds about 20,000 pieces, and its centrepiece is the Flemish altarpiece painted for the cathedral around 1500. Open Tuesday to Sunday, closed for lunch.
The Eugénio de Almeida foundation makes Cartuxa and Pêra-Manca in a former Jesuit retreat about 2 km outside the walls. Every guided visit ends in a tasting, in one of three formats; book ahead.
A great Neolithic dolmen near Valverde. Public access can be restricted.
Évora is European Capital of Culture in 2027, opening in February.
The city book fair, set up in a square of the historic centre.
The Alentejo's biggest wine fair fills Praça do Giraldo. Entry is free; the glass is not.
Two weeks of fairground, food and concerts at the Rossio de São Brás.
The city's holiday on 29 June, in the middle of the São João fair.
Summer concerts at Cartuxa's Quinta de Valbom, outside the walls.
A cloister concert cycle, closing with the José Augusto Alegria prize.
The city sees the year out with a party in Praça do Giraldo.
Évora has no airport. Lisbon is about 135 km west, around 1h30 by car on the A2 and A6 toll roads.
CP runs Intercidades from Lisboa Oriente in about 1h30. Évora station is about 20 minutes' walk south of the walls.
Rede Expressos runs from Lisbon Sete Rios to the Terminal Rodoviário on Avenida Túlio Espanca, 10 minutes' walk from the centre.
Bread, garlic, coriander and olive oil under boiling water and a poached egg.
Fried bread crumbs with garlic and pork fat, served with fried pork.
Pork cubes with clams, fried potatoes and coriander.
Dogfish soup with garlic, coriander and vinegar, over slices of bread.
Lamb stewed with garlic, bay and wine, poured over bread. A spring dish.
Grilled cuts of acorn-fed Alentejo black pork.
A DOP sheep's cheese curdled with thistle, often kept in olive oil.
Évora's convent sweet: almond dough around squash jam and egg threads.
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