A first trip takes the country in thirds. Hanoi and Ha Long Bay hold the north, the heritage belt of Hue, Da Nang and Hoi An holds the centre, and Ho Chi Minh City opens onto the Mekong Delta in the south. Pick one detour, not both: Sa Pa for mountain terraces, Da Lat for cool air and pine. Flights link the thirds in about two hours each, and February to April is the window that works in all of them.
5 Vietnam city guides
Fun fact
Vietnam cut its map from 63 provinces to 34 on 1 July 2025, the largest administrative reorganisation since reunification. Quang Nam province, which held Hoi An, was merged into Da Nang city.
Stereotypes, sorted out
The realityThe museums and the tunnels are worth your time, but the war ended in 1975 and the country moved on. Almost everyone you meet was born after it, and the conversation is about food, family and business.
The realityScooters own the street, and they read a pedestrian as an obstacle to steer around. Walk at a steady pace and do not stop. Hesitating in the middle is what causes the near misses.
The realityPho is a northern breakfast. The centre eats bun bo Hue and the small plates of the old imperial kitchen, the south eats broken rice and hu tieu, and banh mi is a Saigon habit that travelled.
The realityThey sit at opposite ends of the country and behave like different places. Hanoi is older, more formal and properly cold in January. Ho Chi Minh City is hotter, louder and built on trade.
The realityStreet food, local buses and family guesthouses cost very little. Domestic flights, Ha Long cruises and the new coastal resorts are priced for visitors, and the gap between the two budgets is wide.
Cultural notes that actually help
- Shoes come off at the door of a home, a temple and plenty of small shops. Watch the pile by the entrance.
- Pass and receive with both hands, or with the right hand while the left touches the forearm. It reads as respect and costs nothing.
- Bargain in markets, not in shops with a printed price. Keep it light, and stop once you have agreed.
- Cover shoulders and knees at pagodas and mausoleums. The Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum turns people away for it.
- Eat when Vietnam eats. Pho is breakfast, lunch starts around eleven, and neighbourhood kitchens close early in the evening.
- Tipping is not expected. Round up after a good meal or a long ride and leave it at that.
- Do not touch anyone on the head, and point with an open hand, never one finger.
Famous Vietnamese faces

Võ Nguyên Giáp

Nguyễn Du

Thích Nhất Hạnh

Ngô Bảo Châu

Trần Anh Hùng

Ngô Thanh Vân

Sơn Tùng M-TP

Mỹ Tâm

Hoàng Xuân Vinh

Lê Quang Liêm

Trần Đại Nghĩa

Luke Nguyen
Hồ Chí Minh
Trần Hưng Đạo
Trịnh Công Sơn
Đặng Thái Sơn
Hai Bà Trưng
Lý Thái Tổ
Nguyễn Trãi
Bảo Ninh
Viet Thanh Nguyen
Nguyễn Hà Đông
Christine Hà
Must-try Vietnamese food

Bánh mì
Baguette, pâté, cold cuts, pickled carrot and coriander. The French left the bread.

Gỏi cuốn
Fresh rice-paper rolls with prawn, pork and herbs, dipped in peanut sauce.

Bún chả
Grilled pork in a bowl of sweet fish-sauce broth, with cold noodles alongside.

Bún bò Huế
The imperial city's beef noodle soup: lemongrass, chilli and shrimp paste.

Mì Quảng
Turmeric noodles under a shallow, intense broth, with peanuts and rice crackers.

Hủ tiếu
The southern morning noodle, clear or dry, with pork and seafood.

Bánh cuốn
Steamed rice sheets rolled around pork and wood-ear mushroom, eaten fast.

Bún riêu cua
Tomato and freshwater crab broth, sour and light, sold from morning carts.

Cao lầu
Hoi An only: thick noodles, pork, greens and almost no broth.

Cơm hến
Hue baby-clam rice, served cold with crackling and a small bowl of broth.

Bánh bèo
Rice saucers topped with dried shrimp, from the Hue small-plate tradition.

Cơm tấm
Broken rice with grilled pork chop, egg and pickles. Saigon's working lunch.

Bánh xèo
Turmeric crepe filled with pork and prawn, torn up and wrapped in herbs.

Bánh khọt
Coconut rice pancakes the size of a coin, one prawn each.

Cà phê sữa đá
Robusta dripped over condensed milk and ice. Strong enough to plan around.

Cà phê trứng
Egg yolk whipped with condensed milk over coffee. A Hanoi invention.

Bia hơi
Fresh draught beer brewed daily and drunk on plastic stools at the kerb.
Phở
Beef or chicken broth over rice noodles. Breakfast, and judged on the broth alone.
Chả giò
Fried rolls, wrapped again in lettuce and herbs before they go in the sauce.
Chả cá
Turmeric fish fried at the table with dill and spring onion. A Hanoi institution.
Chè
Sweet soups of bean, jelly and coconut milk, served hot or over ice.
Bánh flan
Caramel custard with iced coffee poured over it, which is the point.








