Start in Stockholm for three or four nights, then pick which Sweden you want. West: Gothenburg is three hours away by train, with the archipelago and the shellfish. South: Malmö and the Skåne coast, with Copenhagen half an hour over the bridge. North: the night train to Abisko and Kiruna for the fells, the midnight sun in summer and the aurora from autumn. June to August is the long-daylight window. February and March are the reliable months for snow and northern lights.
2 Sweden city guides
Fun fact
Allemansrätten, the right of public access, lets anyone walk, cycle, swim and camp for a night on almost any land in Sweden, including private property, as long as they avoid gardens and crops and leave no trace. It is written into the constitution.
Stereotypes, sorted out
The realityLatitude cuts both ways. Stockholm in late June gets light that barely leaves, and above the Arctic Circle the sun does not set at all for weeks. The Baltic is warm enough to swim in by August.
The realityReserved is not the same as unfriendly. Nobody will make small talk with you in a queue, and the same person will give you twenty minutes of directions the moment you ask. Warmth here is offered, not broadcast.
The realityThose are the exports. Underneath them sits a Sámi reindeer-herding culture in the north, a Baltic island with a walled medieval town, a west coast built on shellfish, and one of the densest music-production scenes in Europe.
The realityRestaurants and alcohol are. Almost nothing outdoors is. Trails, wild camping, swimming and the archipelago cost nothing beyond getting there, and the weekday lunch deal is the cheapest hot meal on any menu.
The realityThe Stockholm region holds roughly a fifth of the population and none of the fells. Gothenburg has its own accent and its own opinion of the capital, Skåne sounds closer to Danish, and Norrland is more than half the land area.
Cultural notes that actually help
- Take your shoes off indoors. It is not optional in a Swedish home, and nobody will tell you twice.
- Take a queue ticket. Pharmacies, bakeries, government offices and Systembolaget all run on numbers, and standing in line without one gets you nowhere.
- Do not tip out of habit. Service is included, rounding up is the whole gesture, and a percentage reads as foreign rather than generous.
- Split the bill. Paying for the table is not a kindness here, and every card terminal is set up to divide.
- Silence is comfortable. A long pause in a conversation is not awkward and does not need filling.
- Use allemansrätten properly: one night in a spot, well away from houses, nothing left behind. The right survives because people keep to it.
- Say hej. It covers hello from a shop counter to a stranger on a trail, and hej hej covers goodbye.
Famous Swedish faces
ABBA
Ingmar Bergman
Greta Garbo
Astrid Lindgren
Alfred Nobel
Zlatan Ibrahimović
Björn Borg
Ingvar Kamprad
Avicii
Max Martin
Robyn
Swedish House Mafia
Zara Larsson
First Aid Kit
José González
Jussi Björling
Ingrid Bergman
Max von Sydow
Alicia Vikander
Stellan Skarsgård
Noomi Rapace
Lasse Hallström
Ingemar Stenmark
Annika Sörenstam
Armand Duplantis
Charlotte Kalla
Peter Forsberg
Henrik Lundqvist
Carl Linnaeus
Anders Celsius
Svante Arrhenius
Selma Lagerlöf
August Strindberg
Stieg Larsson
Henning Mankell
Tomas Tranströmer
Carl Larsson
Anders Zorn
Hilma af Klint
Daniel Ek
Markus Persson
Erling Persson
Dag Hammarskjöld
Raoul Wallenberg
Olof Palme
Greta Thunberg
Must-try Swedish food
Köttbullar
Small pork and beef meatballs with cream sauce, lingonberries and pressed cucumber.
Pyttipanna
Diced potato, onion and leftover meat fried hard, topped with a fried egg and beetroot.
Janssons frestelse
Potato, onion and sprats baked in cream, and a fixture of every Christmas table.
Raggmunk
Potato pancakes fried crisp, served with fried pork and lingonberries.
Ärtsoppa
Yellow pea soup with pork, eaten on Thursdays, with pancakes after.
Kalops
Slow beef stew with allspice and bay, and pickled beetroot on the side.
Falukorv
A thick mild sausage, sliced and fried or baked whole with cheese and mustard.
Kroppkakor
Potato dumplings stuffed with pork and onion, from Öland and Småland.
Gravad lax
Salmon cured with salt, sugar and dill, sliced thin and served with mustard sauce.
Inlagd sill
Pickled herring in a dozen dressings, always with new potatoes and dill.
Toast Skagen
Prawns in dill mayonnaise piled on fried bread, with roe on top.
Löjrom
Vendace roe from the Kalix coast, served with sour cream and finely chopped red onion.
Kräftor
Crayfish boiled in dill, eaten outdoors in August with paper hats and drinking songs.
Surströmming
Fermented Baltic herring, opened outdoors and eaten in a flatbread roll. A tradition, not a dare.
Räksmörgås
An open prawn sandwich built high enough to need a knife and fork.
Renskav
Shaved reindeer fried with mushrooms and cream, over mash and lingonberries.
Suovas
Cold-smoked reindeer from Sámi kitchens, sliced into a flatbread wrap.
Palt
Dense potato dumplings from Norrbotten, boiled with cured pork inside.
Hjortron
Cloudberries picked from the northern bogs, warmed over ice cream or soft cheese.
Kanelbulle
The cinnamon bun: cardamom in the dough, pearl sugar on top. Fika's default order.
Kardemummabulle
The cardamom sibling, and the one Swedes order when nobody is watching.
Kladdkaka
A chocolate cake taken out of the oven early on purpose, still sticky in the middle.
Chokladboll
No-bake oat and cocoa balls rolled in coconut or pearl sugar.
Prinsesstårta
Sponge, jam and cream under a dome of pale green marzipan.
Semla
Cardamom bun filled with almond paste and whipped cream, eaten through the weeks before Lent.
Lussekatt
Saffron buns curled into an S, baked for Lucia in December.
Pepparkakor
Thin ginger snaps, snapped in the palm for luck at Christmas.
Tunnbrödsrulle
Flatbread rolled around mash, sausage, prawn salad and crisp fried onion.
Korv med bröd
The grilled sausage in bread that every kiosk and ferry terminal sells.
Kebabpizza
Sweden's own invention: pizza under kebab meat and a garlic sauce.
Glögg
Mulled wine with almonds and raisins in the bottom of the cup, from Advent onward.
Julmust
A dark malt soft drink that outsells cola in Sweden every December.
Snaps
Spiced aquavit taken in small glasses, and never without a song first.
Punsch
A sweet arrack liqueur, traditionally drunk warm alongside Thursday's pea soup.
Kaffe
Sweden drinks more coffee per head than almost anywhere, and fika is the reason.


