Two things shape every trip: the coast road and one river. Paramaribo is the anchor, a UNESCO-listed grid of white wooden houses with Fort Zeelandia on the waterfront. Commewijne is a half day by ferry and bicycle through old plantations. East, a boat from Albina reaches Galibi, where leatherbacks nest from roughly February to August. West, scarlet ibis roost at Bigi Pan at dusk. Inland, Brownsberg is a day by 4WD; deeper means a dugout from Atjoni. Five days covers the capital and a river trip.
1 Suriname city guide
Fun fact
The Central Suriname Nature Reserve covers 1.6 million hectares of unbroken primary rainforest, roughly 11 percent of the country, and nobody lives in it. UNESCO listed it in 2000. Botanists have recorded more than 5,000 vascular plants there, plus jaguar, giant river otter, tapir and harpy eagle.
Stereotypes, sorted out
The realityIt reads Caribbean in the food, the music and the heat, and it is mainland South America, sharing a rainforest with Brazil. The coast is mangrove and mudflat, with no beach resorts to speak of. Suriname offers a river trip in place of a beach holiday, and travellers wanting sand leave disappointed.
The realityDutch is official and everywhere in writing: menus, signs, forms. Spoken, the country runs on Sranan Tongo, an English-based creole every community shares, and English is common in the capital and standard in the tour trade. Visitors manage without Dutch. A phone helps with menus.
The realityThey string together on one overland route and they differ. Guyana is English-speaking, French Guiana is part of France with the euro and European prices, and Suriname is Dutch-speaking and the most layered of the three. Currency, visas and ferries change at each river, and no bridge links them.
The realityOne piece of it is. Brownsberg, above the Brokopondo reservoir, works as a long day. Past it, a river lodge is three to four hours by road to Atjoni and up to three by dugout, and the deep reserves need light aircraft that fly when the weather allows. Two nights is the minimum.
How to behave
- Greet people before you ask them anything. A goedemorgen or a fa waka first, then the question, is the difference between a helpful answer and a short one.
- Ask before photographing anyone, and take that seriously in Maroon and Indigenous villages, where a village has its own rules about cameras and a guide will tell you what they are.
- A river village is somebody's home. Arrive through a lodge or a guide who has the village's agreement, and stay on the paths you are shown.
- Dress modestly away from the pool. Shorts and a shirt are fine anywhere in daytime Paramaribo, but a temple, mosque or church expects shoulders and knees covered, and the country has plenty of all three.
- Learn which holiday you have walked into. Keti Koti, Phagwa, Divali, Eid and Chinese New Year are all public occasions here, and each has its own etiquette about food, colour and what is open.
- Do not treat the ethnic mix as a curiosity to be quizzed about. Surinamese talk about it easily and often with humour, but the opening move is theirs to make, not a visitor's.
- Bargaining is not the norm. Prices in shops and at the market are what they are, and haggling reads as rude.
Famous Surinamese faces

Anthony Nesty

Johan Ferrier

Jagernath Lachmon

Cynthia McLeod

Astrid Roemer

Erwin de Vries

Jairzinho Rozenstruik
Anton de Kom
Ruth Jacott
Clarence Seedorf
Letitia Vriesde
Must-try Surinamese food
Pom
Grated pomtajer baked with chicken and citrus. At every birthday, wedding and funeral.
Roti
Flatbread with curried chicken, potato and long beans, brought from India in the 1870s.
Moksi alesi
Mixed rice cooked in one pot with beans and salted meat or fish. A Creole weeknight meal.
Heri heri
Cassava, sweet potato and plantain with salt fish and egg, eaten on Keti Koti.
Bami and nasi
Javanese noodles and fried rice. Eat them at the warungs on the road to Lelydorp.
Pastei
Chicken, pea and caper pie under pastry, at every party. Half Dutch, half Caribbean.
Bakabana
Battered, fried ripe plantain with peanut sauce, sold all over Paramaribo.
Telo met bakkeljauw
Fried cassava with salt cod and sambal. The cheap market plate, eaten standing.
Broodje pom
Pom in a soft roll. Bakeries sell it by mid-morning and run out by lunch.
Saoto
Javanese chicken broth with vermicelli, sprouts, egg, potato and shallots. Hangover cure.
Pindasoep met tom tom
Thick Creole peanut soup with pounded plantain dumplings. Usually the whole meal.
Bojo
Dense cassava and coconut cake with raisins and a little rum. The one to bring home.
Fiadu
Layered pastry filled with rum-soaked dried fruit, baked for Christmas.
Parbo
The national lager, ordered as a djogo, the one-litre bottle shared with small glasses.
Borgoe
Suriname's own rum, distilled in Paramaribo and behind every bar in the country.
Markusa
Sharp, barely sweetened passionfruit juice, sold everywhere. The hot-afternoon drink.

