Land in São Tomé and sort cash first: cards work only in the big hotels and foreign cards fail in ATMs, so change euros or dollars at a bank. Then go south to São João dos Angolares and Pico Cão Grande, a 663-metre volcanic needle in Obô Natural Park, and to Ilhéu das Rolas on the equator. Príncipe is where Arthur Eddington tested relativity in 1919. A week covers São Tomé, ten days adds Príncipe. Come June to September, and do not drive outside towns after dark.
Fun fact
General relativity got one of its first confirmations on Príncipe. On 29 May 1919 Arthur Eddington photographed a total solar eclipse there, and stars near the darkened Sun appeared shifted by the amount Einstein predicted for light bending around a mass. The island has about 8,400 people today.
Stereotypes, sorted out
The realityGetting in is easy: UK, Irish, Canadian and US passports need no visa for up to 15 days, and the border fee is 20 euros. Leaving is harder. Flights do not leave daily, no aircraft stands by for evacuation, and the US embassy is in Luanda. Build slack into the return and carry evacuation insurance.
The realityThe US rates it Level 1, Canada its lowest level, and the UK has no specific advisory; Ireland urges a high degree of caution. Crime is generally low, though theft and armed robbery happen near beaches, markets and hotels, and piracy threatens offshore shipping. Roads kill the most travellers.
The realityThe islands are volcanic and steep. Pico de São Tomé reaches 2,024 metres, the cloud forest takes up to 7,000 millimetres of rain a year, and Obô Natural Park rings the needle of Pico Cão Grande. Endemics include the smallest ibis and largest sunbird. Beaches are unsupervised, with strong currents.
The realityStill the main crop, about 54 per cent of farm exports, with a darker history than the Chocolate Islands nickname. By 1905 São Tomé led world production, the roças used forced labour long after abolition in 1876, and the 1953 Batepá massacre of several hundred labourers is officially commemorated.
What helps on the ground
- Portuguese is the language of everything, spoken by 98.4 per cent of people. Forro, the main creole, is spoken by about a third, and English by few, so a Portuguese phrasebook earns its place.
- Bring euros or US dollars in cash. Foreign cards do not work in the ATMs, and credit cards only work in the major international hotels.
- Do not photograph the Presidential Palace, military sites, government buildings or the airport.
- Take marked taxis, agree the fare before you get in, and ask the driver not to pick up other passengers. Carry small notes.
- Leave valuables at the hotel when you go to the beach, and ask locally before swimming: beaches are unsupervised and currents can be strong.
- The Batepá massacre of 1953 is officially commemorated every year. It is not small talk.
- If a tchiloli is being performed, go: it is a musical drama told through dance, and the danço-Congo mixes music, dance and theatre the same way. Ússua and socopé are the rhythms of São Tomé, and dêxa is the beat of Príncipe.
Famous São Toméan faces
Rei Amador
Manuel Pinto da Costa
Francisco José Tenreiro
Alda Espírito Santo
Miguel Trovoada
Fradique de Menezes
Patrice Trovoada
Carlos Vila Nova
José de Almada Negreiros
Viana da Mota
Costa Alegre
What the islands eat
Fruta-pão (breadfruit)
One of the staples the everyday plate is built on, beside cooked banana, beans and maize.
Banana and plantain
Plantain leads the islands' crops, and cooked banana anchors the everyday plate.
Beans and maize
Everyday staples, though most of the islands' food is now imported.
Taro, yams and cassava
Root crops grown alongside plantain, oil palm and cocoa.
Fish and seafood
The islands' protein. The Angolares of the south have long lived by fishing.
Palm oil and coconut
Oil palm and coconut are main crops, and palm oil is one of the few exports.
Cocoa
The crop behind the Chocolate Islands name, still about 54 per cent of farm exports.
Coffee
Arrived with cocoa in the early nineteenth century. Still exported, and used as a spice.
Hot spice
Hot spices are prominent in the cooking, so ask before the sauce goes on.
Tropical fruit
Pineapple, avocado and banana are significant components of the cuisine, not garnish.
Omelettes and leftovers
Breakfast is often the previous evening’s meal reheated, and omelettes are popular.
