Start in Lagos. It is the arrival airport, the music, the food and the reason most trips exist, and it takes three or four days before it stops being a blur. Then pick one contrast rather than a loop: Calabar in the southeast for the December carnival and the rainforest behind it, Abuja for the planned capital and the rock country around it, or Kano in the north for the old walled city and the dye pits. Fly between them, because the distances are long and the roads are slow. November to February is the dry season and the window worth booking.
1 Nigeria city guide
Fun fact
Nigeria has more than 500 living languages, more than any other country in Africa. Hausa, Yoruba and Igbo carry the most speakers, and English is the official language precisely because none of the three could stand in for the others.
Stereotypes, sorted out
The realityIt is a federation of thirty-six states holding more than five hundred living languages, and the three biggest of them do not share a script, a cuisine or a calendar. The Hausa north, the Yoruba southwest and the Igbo southeast read as different countries the moment you land in each.
The realityLagos is the arrival and the noise. Kano was a walled trading city on the trans-Saharan routes centuries before Lagos was a port, Calabar runs at half the speed with rainforest behind it, and Abuja was drawn on paper and built from nothing.
The realityForeign advisories on Nigeria are granular for a reason: they rate states individually, and the ratings differ sharply between neighbours. The right question is not whether Nigeria is safe but whether the specific states on your route are, and the answer is published and updated.
The realityIt is the second-largest film industry on earth by output, ahead of Hollywood and behind only India, at something like two and a half thousand films a year. Those films now open in cinemas and sell to global streamers, and its stars are recognised across the continent.
The realityThe Nigerian version uses long-grain parboiled rice cooked down in a pepper and tomato base until the bottom of the pot catches, which is where the smoke comes from. The argument with Ghana is real, it is enjoyed by both sides, and nobody is conceding.
The realityEnglish is the official language and it is everywhere: signs, menus, newspapers, government, school. What takes an ear is Nigerian Pidgin, the language people actually use between groups, and a week is enough to start following it.
Cultural notes that actually help
- Greet first, ask second. Opening with a question and no good morning reads as rude almost everywhere.
- Give, take and eat with the right hand. Using the left alone is an insult across much of the country.
- Age is addressed out loud. Sir, Ma, Uncle and Aunty are normal for anyone senior, related or not.
- Social time is elastic and travel time is not. A party called for six starts at eight; a flight does not wait.
- Ask before photographing people, markets and vendors, and do not photograph airports, bridges, military or police at all.
- Money gets asked for directly, and a pleasant, repeated no is an acceptable answer.
- Religion is public and it structures the week. Friday afternoons empty out in the north, Sunday mornings in the south.
Famous Nigerian faces

Wole Soyinka

Chinua Achebe

Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie

Fela Kuti

Burna Boy

Ngozi Okonjo-Iweala

Hakeem Olajuwon

Aliko Dangote

King Sunny Adé

Wizkid

Davido

Tiwa Savage

Tems

Asake
Sade Adu

Genevieve Nnaji

Kunle Afolayan
Funke Akindele

Chiwetel Ejiofor

John Boyega

Ben Okri

Buchi Emecheta
Amos Tutuola
Christopher Okigbo

Jay-Jay Okocha

Nwankwo Kanu
Anthony Joshua

Tobi Amusan

Ben Enwonwu

Njideka Akunyili Crosby

Yinka Shonibare

Amina J. Mohammed

Oby Ezekwesili

Tony Elumelu
Must-try Nigerian food

Jollof rice
Long-grain rice cooked down in pepper, tomato and stock until the bottom of the pot catches. The smoke is the point.

Suya
Beef threaded onto sticks, rubbed in yaji (ground peanut and pepper) and grilled over wood after dark.

Efo riro
Spinach stewed in palm oil with pepper and locust bean, carrying beef, ponmo and smoked fish.

Pepper soup
A thin, fierce broth around catfish or goat, built on a spice mix designed to clear your head.

Afang soup
Cross River greens cooked with waterleaf and seafood. The richest bowl in the southeast.

Banga soup
Palm fruit pulp cooked down with catfish and delta spices, eaten with starch rather than rice.

Ogbono soup
Wild mango seed ground into a draw soup that stretches from the bowl to the spoon and back.

Edikang ikong
Ugu and waterleaf cooked with almost no water, dense with beef, dried fish and periwinkle.

Moin moin
The same bean batter steamed instead of fried, with egg, fish or corned beef folded through it.

Ewa agoyin
Beans mashed soft under a dark fried pepper sauce, torn Agege bread on the side.

Tuwo shinkafa
Soft rice pounded into a dense ball and eaten with soup. The northern staple at almost every meal.

Kilishi
Beef dried thin, painted with spiced peanut paste and dried again. Jerky with far more going on.
Pounded yam and egusi
Yam beaten smooth, torn by hand, and pushed through melon-seed soup thick with greens and meat.
Ofada rice and ayamase
Unpolished local rice under a green pepper sauce cooked in bleached palm oil. Sharp, oily, worth it.
Nkwobi
Cow foot in a spiced palm oil paste, served warm in a wooden bowl with a cold beer beside it.
Asun
Goat grilled whole, then chopped small and tossed with peppers and onion. The Yoruba party plate.
Puff-puff
Yeasted dough fried into sweet golden balls and handed over hot in a twist of paper.
Akara
Peeled black-eyed peas whipped into a batter and deep fried. Breakfast, with pap alongside.
Boli
Plantain roasted black over coals and eaten with roasted groundnuts, straight from the roadside.
Dodo
Ripe plantain fried into sweet discs. It goes with everything, and it disappears first.
Small chops
The party plate: puff-puff, spring rolls, samosas and peppered gizzard, passed around all evening.
Miyan kuka
Baobab-leaf powder soup, dark and faintly sour, poured over tuwo and eaten with the hand.
Masa
Fermented rice cakes cooked in a dimpled pan, taken sweet with honey or savoury with soup.
Chin chin
Fried dough cut into hard little squares. The snack every Nigerian handbag is carrying.
Kuli kuli
Groundnut paste pressed of its oil, twisted into rings and fried until it snaps.
Coconut candy
Shredded coconut boiled in sugar until it caramelises, sold in twists at the bus park.
Zobo
Dried hibiscus steeped with ginger and pineapple, served cold and very red.
Palm wine
Sap tapped from the palm at dawn. Sweet before noon, sour by evening, and different every day.
Chapman
A Lagos club invention: bitters, grenadine and citrus soda over ice with a slice of cucumber.
Kunu
Millet or sorghum drink loosened with ginger, drunk cold through the northern afternoon.
Fura da nono
Millet balls crumbled into fermented cow's milk. A Fulani drink you take with a spoon.


