Fly into Queen Alia International Airport and use Amman as the hinge. North, Jerash, Ajloun and Umm Qais are day trips. West, the road drops to Madaba, Mount Nebo and the Dead Sea. South, take the King’s Highway for Karak, the Mujib gorge and Dana, or the Desert Highway for speed. Give Petra two days and Wadi Rum a night in a camp, and end in the Red Sea at Aqaba. A week does the loop. Ten days does it without driving tired.
1 Jordan city guide
Fun fact
The shore of the Dead Sea is the lowest dry land on earth, and it keeps breaking its own record. The surface sat near 440 metres below sea level in 2025, against about 390 metres in 1930, and it has been dropping by roughly a metre a year since 2001 as the Jordan River is drawn off upstream.
Stereotypes, sorted out
The realityPetra is a city of tombs, temples and a colonnaded street spread over a valley, and the walk from the gate to the Monastery fills a day on its own. Treat it as two. Jerash in the north is one of the best preserved Roman provincial cities anywhere, and almost nobody gives it a day.
The realityThe eastern two thirds are desert. Amman sits over 700 metres up and gets snow in some winters, the northern hills are olive groves and pine, the Jordan Valley grows the country’s produce below sea level, and Dana crosses four biogeographic zones in one walk.
The realityJordan has been the stable address in a difficult neighbourhood for decades, and the classic route runs nowhere near a border zone. Advisories move with regional events, so check the current one. On the ground, expect tourist police at the sites and drivers keen to talk politics.
The realityThe country walks: the Jordan Trail runs its whole length, the Mujib gorge is a canyon waded upstream in summer, and Dana descends to Feynan on foot. Aqaba dives Red Sea reefs and a deliberately sunk aircraft. Wadi Rum is climbing, camel work and a night under a sky with no light pollution in it.
How to fit in
- Hospitality is close to obligatory here. Tea or coffee will be offered constantly, and accepting one small cup is the polite move even when you do not want it.
- Greet before you ask. A salam alaikum and a moment of small talk before a question is the difference between a transaction and a conversation, and it changes the answer you get.
- Dress modestly in towns and at sites: shoulders and knees covered, for everyone. Resorts and hotel pools are the exception, not the rule.
- Friday is the prayer day and the start of the weekend. Mornings are quiet, offices are shut, and family lunch takes over the middle of the day.
- Ramadan reshapes daylight hours. Eat and drink out of sight during the fast, expect restaurants to open late, and take the invitation if you are asked to an iftar.
- Ask before photographing people, especially women and especially in villages. At a Bedouin camp the reply is usually yes, but ask anyway.
- The right hand is the eating hand, and mansaf is eaten from a shared platter. Follow whoever is hosting, and take from the section in front of you.
Famous Jordanian faces

Ahmad Abughaush

Mustafa Wahbi Al-Tal

Zeid Ra’ad Al Hussein

Prince Ali bin Hussein

Yazan Al-Naimat

Saba Mubarak

Diana Karazon

Zade Dirani

Rana Dajani

Fadi Ghandour
King Abdullah II
Queen Rania
King Hussein
Musa Al-Taamari
Naji Abu Nowar
Ibrahim Nasrallah
Queen Noor
Amer Shafi
Amin Matalqa
Must-try Jordanian food

Mansaf
National dish: lamb in jameed, a fermented dried yoghurt, over rice on a shared platter.

Makmoura
Northern layered pastry of chicken, onion, sumac and olive oil, cut like a pie.

Galayet bandora
Tomatoes cooked hard in olive oil with chilli and onion, scooped up with bread.

Hummus
Eaten warm for breakfast, loose and pooled with olive oil, with the bread doing the work.

Fatteh
Torn flatbread under chickpeas and yoghurt, topped with pine nuts and butter. Filling.

Falafel
Fried to order and handed over in paper with pickles and tahini. The cheapest good meal.

Shawarma
Chicken or lamb off the spit, wrapped with garlic sauce and pickles. Amman after dark.
Maqluba
Rice, meat and fried aubergine or cauliflower layered in a pot and turned out upside down.
Zarb
Meat and vegetables cooked for hours in a Bedouin sand oven. Dinner at a Wadi Rum camp.
Rashof
Lentils and cracked wheat in fermented yoghurt, with pickles. Winter comfort food.
Sayadieh
Fish over rice cooked with caramelised onion and cumin. The standard order in Aqaba.
Mutabbal
Flame-burnt aubergine worked with tahini, lemon and garlic. Smokier than baba ghanoush.
Msakhan
Roast chicken on taboon bread soaked in olive oil, sumac and slow-cooked onions.
Mashawi
Mixed grill of shish taouk, kofta and lamb over coals, with more bread than you ordered.
Knafeh nabulsieh
Stretchy white cheese under syrup-soaked pastry and pistachio, cut in front of you, hot.
Arabic coffee
Cardamom coffee poured from a dallah, refilled until you tilt the cup. Accept the first.
Shai bi na’na’
Black tea with mint and plenty of sugar, offered everywhere from shops to camp fires.


