Tbilisi earns three nights for its sulfur baths under brick domes, a balconied old town and a fast-moving restaurant scene. East is Kakheti for qvevri wine, Sighnaghi and Telavi, best as an overnight. North, the Georgian Military Highway climbs to Stepantsminda and Gergeti Trinity under Mount Kazbek. Give the west a week: Kutaisi for caves, Batumi for the Black Sea and Mestia for the towers of Svaneti. May to June and September to October work everywhere.
3 Georgia city guides
Fun fact
Georgia has been making wine in clay qvevri for around 8,000 years, the longest continuous winemaking tradition on record.
Stereotypes, sorted out
The realityIt is its own country, with its own language and its own alphabet, and has been for a very long time. The Caucasus range is the border, and almost nothing on this side of it reads like the other.
The realityIt runs to a form. A tamada leads, the toasts follow an order, and the pacing is the point. Eating fast and leaving early misses the event you were actually invited to.
The realityNobody is counting. Say early and warmly that you are pacing yourself and the table will accept it. Raising the glass for the toast matters more than emptying it.
The realityThe high Caucasus is one band of it. Batumi and the Black Sea coast are subtropical, growing tea and citrus, and the southeast around Davit Gareja is semi-desert.
The realityEvery region shapes it differently. Imeruli is a round with cheese through the middle, Megruli melts more on top, and the Adjaruli boat with an egg and butter is the one that travels.
Cultural notes that actually help
- Wine is poured by the host and toasted before it is drunk. Sipping between toasts is fine, drinking through one is not.
- Bread from the tone oven is torn by hand and sits on the table, not the plate.
- Guests are treated as a gift. Turning down an invitation to eat takes more effort than accepting one.
- Churches ask for covered shoulders, and women are usually handed a scarf at the door.
- Tipping is light. Many restaurants add ten per cent service, so read the bill before adding more.
- Cash still runs marshrutkas, markets and mountain guesthouses, and ATMs thin out fast outside the cities.
- Georgian uses its own alphabet, and menus outside Tbilisi are often not transliterated. Photos help.
Famous Georgian faces
Shota Rustaveli
Queen Tamar
Niko Pirosmani
Katie Melua
Nona Gaprindashvili
Khvicha Kvaratskhelia
Khatia Buniatishvili
Rezo Gabriadze
Vakhtang Gorgasali
David IV the Builder
Joseph Stalin
Ilia Chavchavadze
Nikoloz Baratashvili
Zurab Tsereteli
Elene Akhvlediani
Sergei Parajanov
Tengiz Abuladze
Otar Iosseliani
Nino Katamadze
Vakhtang Kikabidze
George Balanchine
Nino Ananiashvili
Lasha Talakhadze
Maia Chiburdanidze
Eduard Shevardnadze
Salome Zourabichvili
Must-try Georgian food

Khinkali
Spiced meat dumplings full of broth. Hold the knot, bite, drink, and leave the knot.

Pkhali
Greens, beetroot or beans bound with ground walnut and spice, served cold in mounds.

Chakapuli
Lamb simmered with tarragon, sour plums and white wine. The spring dish to order.
Khachapuri (Imeruli)
The everyday round, with salty cheese through the middle. The shape the others vary.
Mtsvadi
Pork grilled over vine cuttings and served under raw onion. The wood is the seasoning.
Badrijani nigvzit
Fried aubergine rolled around walnut and garlic paste, finished with pomegranate seeds.
Lobio
Kidney beans stewed with coriander in a clay pot, with cornbread alongside.
Kharcho
Beef soup thickened with walnut and rice, soured with plum. For a cold Kakheti day.
Adjaruli khachapuri
The Batumi boat of bread and cheese, with egg yolk and butter stirred in at the table.
Shoti
Sword-shaped bread baked on the wall of a clay tone oven. Buy it warm.
Sulguni
Elastic brined cheese from Samegrelo, eaten fresh, smoked or melted into everything.
Guda
Sheep cheese matured in a skin bag in the mountains. Sharp, salty, and not subtle.
Elarji
Cornmeal beaten with sulguni until it pulls into threads. Megrelian and filling.
Gebjalia
Cheese rolled around cheese and mint, served in warm milk. A western starter.
Megruli khachapuri
The Imeruli round with a second layer of cheese melted over the top.
Ajika
Red chilli, garlic and herbs pounded into a paste. The heat of Megrelian cooking.
Kubdari
Svan bread filled with hand-chopped spiced meat. The thing to order in Mestia.
Chvishtari
Cornbread with cheese worked through it, fried until the crust turns. Svaneti again.
Svanuri marili
Svan salt with garlic, coriander, blue fenugreek and marigold. Worth carrying home.
Churchkhela
Walnuts on a string dipped in thickened grape must until set. The harvest, made portable.
Pelamushi
Grape must cooked down with flour into a firm pudding. Churchkhela without the nuts.
Tklapi
Sour fruit leather, usually plum, dried in sheets and used in cooking.
Qvevri wine
Fermented on the skins in a buried clay jar. White grapes come out amber.
Chacha
Grape spirit distilled from winemaking leftovers. Poured at the end of a supra, strong.
Tarkhuna
Bright green tarragon lemonade, sweeter than it looks. Found nowhere else.
Borjomi
Salty mineral water from the Borjomi gorge springs. Most people acquire the taste.




