Almost every trip lands at Nadi, on the dry western side of Viti Levu, and the real decision is which way you leave it. The Mamanuca islands sit within an hour of Port Denarau and take the day trips. The Yasawas run north from the same marina in a chain that rewards a week. The Coral Coast road south towards Sigatoka is for anyone who wants beaches without a boat, and Suva, the capital, is the wet, green, working side of the country most visitors never see. Vanua Levu and Taveuni are the second trip, reached by a short flight rather than a drive. Come between May and October and you get the dry season.
2 Fiji city guides
Fun fact
The 180th meridian crosses Taveuni, Fiji's third-largest island, but the international date line bends east around the archipelago so the whole country keeps one calendar day.
Stereotypes, sorted out
The realityIt is more than 300 of them, and only about a third are lived on. Viti Levu holds the airport, the capital and most of the population, and takes a full day to drive around. Vanua Levu, the second island, is a flight away.
The realityThe resorts are real, and they are a fraction of the country. Levuka, the old colonial capital on Ovalau, is a World Heritage port town of timber shopfronts. Suva is a working Pacific capital with a museum and a covered market. The interior of Viti Levu is highland villages reached by river.
The realityThe west is dry and built for beaches. The east and south are wet and green. Vanua Levu and Taveuni are rainforest, waterfalls and the diving in the Somosomo Strait. Picking the wrong side of the country for what you came to do is the most common Fiji mistake.
The realityThree languages are official: English, iTaukei and Fiji Hindi. English runs government and signage, and around a third of the country is Indo-Fijian, descended from labourers brought to the cane fields between 1879 and 1916.
The realityIt is the easiest South Pacific country to reach. Nadi is the regional hub, with direct flights from Australia, New Zealand and North America, and it is a standard stopover on trans-Pacific routes.
Cultural notes that actually help
- Bula is the greeting, and it is used constantly. Say it back. Vinaka is thank you, and vinaka vakalevu is thank you very much.
- A village visit starts with sevusevu. A bundle of kava is presented to the chief and permission to be there is asked for. Your guide carries it and does the talking; your part is to sit and accept the cup.
- Cover shoulders and knees in a village, and take a sulu. Hats and sunglasses come off at the entrance, shoes at the door.
- Do not touch anyone's head, a child's included. In iTaukei custom the head is sacred, and reaching for it is the one gesture that reads as rude anywhere in the country.
- Sunday belongs to church. Villages go quiet and shops shut, so it is not the day to turn up somewhere expecting a tour.
- Fiji time is real and it is not a joke at anyone's expense. Boats and buses move when they move, and the schedule you were given is a proposal.
Famous Fijian faces

Vijay Singh

Waisale Serevi
Jerry Tuwai

Osea Kolinisau
Iliesa Delana
Semi Radradra
Roy Krishna
Josefa Rokocoko
Ratu Seru Cakobau
Ratu Sir Lala Sukuna

Ratu Sir Kamisese Mara
George "Fiji" Veikoso

Laisa Vulakoro
Satendra Nandan
Must-try Fijian food

Purini
Steamed pudding of flour, coconut milk and banana, soaked in a coconut caramel and served warm.
Kokoda
The national dish: raw fish cured in lime, then folded through coconut cream and served in a coconut shell.
Lovo
A feast cooked in an earth oven. Meat, fish and root crops go into leaves and under hot stones for hours.
Rourou
Young taro leaves simmered soft in coconut milk. The green on almost every Fijian plate.
Dalo and cassava
Taro and cassava, boiled and served plain. Fiji's bread, and the fastest way to tell a home kitchen from a resort one.
Duruka
Fijian asparagus, the unopened flower of a wild cane. It has a short season around April to June and is gone the rest of the year.
Ika vakalolo
Whole fish poached in coconut cream with chilli and onion, and eaten with the sauce spooned over dalo.
Nama
Sea grapes, gathered off the reef and eaten raw with lemon and coconut. Salty, and they burst.
Fish curry
Tamarind, mustard seed and curry leaf, from the kitchens the girmit generation built. Usually mopped up with roti.
Roti parcel
The country's takeaway: curry rolled inside a flatbread and wrapped in paper, sold at every market and bus stand.
Bara
Spiced lentil fritters, deep-fried and sold hot by the bag at Indo-Fijian markets.
Vakalolo
Grated cassava and coconut steamed in a banana leaf. Sticky, dense and only just sweet.
Yaqona
Kava: pounded pepper root in water, drunk from a shared bowl. Not alcohol, not a novelty, and the centre of Fijian social life.


