Start in Quito, whose old town was on the first World Heritage list UNESCO ever published, and give the Sierra the first few days: Otavalo for the market, the volcano road south past Cotopaxi, Baños for the waterfalls, and Cuenca for the best-kept colonial streets in the country. West, the Costa runs from Guayaquil out to the surf towns and the mangroves. East, the Oriente drops into Amazon lodges reached by road to Tena or a short flight to Coca. The Galápagos need their own flight, a park entrance paid on arrival and a transit card bought before you board, which is why they are planned as a separate trip rather than an add-on.
2 Ecuador city guides
Fun fact
Ecuador wrote the rights of nature into its constitution in 2008, the first country in the world to do so. Article 71 gives ecosystems standing in court, and Ecuadorian judges have since ruled for a river and for a cloud forest against mining concessions.
Stereotypes, sorted out
The realityThe islands are one province of twenty-four. The mainland holds the second-highest capital in the world, a volcano corridor you can drive in a morning, cloud forest an hour from Quito and Amazon rivers reached by road. Most people who come for the islands leave wishing they had given the mainland more than the two nights either side.
The realityDifferent country, different history. The Inca held the northern highlands for only a few decades before the Spanish arrived, so Ecuador's set pieces are colonial and volcanic rather than Inca. Ingapirca is real and it is modest. Quito's old town, on the first World Heritage list UNESCO published, is the reason to come.
The realityIt is the smallest of the Andean countries. Quito to the coast is a morning's drive, Quito to an Amazon lodge an afternoon, and the volcano corridor runs alongside one road. A week covers two of the four regions without a rushed itinerary.
The realityAltitude sets the temperature here, not latitude. Quito sits at 2,850 metres and runs to cool spring weather all year with cold nights, while Guayaquil is humid and tropical. Pack a fleece and shorts, and expect to use both in the same week.
The realityDollarization cuts both ways. Set lunches, buses and markets are genuinely inexpensive; imported goods, island flights and park fees are not. The Galápagos are priced like a different country because, in cost terms, they are.
Cultural notes that actually help
- Greetings are close. One kiss on the right cheek between women, and between a woman and a man, is standard on first meeting; men shake hands.
- Lunch is the main meal, and the almuerzo (soup, a main and a juice for a set price) is what most of the country eats at midday. It is also the best value on any menu.
- Punctuality is loose socially and firm professionally. Arrive on time for a meeting and comfortably late for a house invitation.
- Ecuador calls itself plurinational in its own constitution, and indigenous identity is political rather than folkloric. Ask before photographing people at Otavalo or Saquisilí.
- Titles get used in full. Doctor, ingeniero and licenciado are ordinary courtesy rather than deference, and dropping them reads as brusque.
- Altitude is a real constraint, and locals will tell you to slow down before you notice it yourself. Take the advice on the first day.
- Carnival means water. In February, being soaked by strangers with buckets and foam is a national pastime and not an insult.
Famous Ecuadorian faces

Oswaldo Guayasamín

Jefferson Pérez
Richard Carapaz

Julio Jaramillo
Eugenio Espejo

Eloy Alfaro
Jorge Icaza

Manuela Sáenz
Eugenio Espejo

Manuela Sáenz

Eloy Alfaro
Pedro Vicente Maldonado

Eloy Alfaro
Rosalía Arteaga

Nina Pacari

Daniel Noboa
Jorge Icaza

Juan Montalvo
Juan León Mera

Julio Jaramillo

Carlota Jaramillo
Sebastián Cordero

Tania Hermida

Jefferson Pérez
Richard Carapaz

Alberto Spencer

Andrés Gómez

Enner Valencia

Moisés Caicedo

Oswaldo Guayasamín
Eduardo Kingman

Manuel Chili "Caspicara"
Pedro Vicente Maldonado
Must-try Ecuadorian food

Llapingachos
Potato patties stuffed with cheese and browned on a griddle, plated with peanut sauce, chorizo and a fried egg.

Fritada
Pork simmered in its own fat with orange juice until it falls apart, served with hominy, plantain and toasted corn.

Mote pillo
Hominy scrambled with egg, onion and milk. Cuenca's breakfast, and the argument for hominy being a breakfast grain.

Cazuela de mariscos
Green plantain and peanut ground to a paste, baked with seafood in a clay bowl until the top sets.

Fanesca
Twelve grains and beans with salt cod in a milk broth, cooked only in Holy Week. The twelve stand for the apostles.

Colada morada
Spiced purple corn and berry drink served warm on 2 November, alongside guaguas de pan, sweet breads shaped as swaddled figures.

Helado de paila
Fruit ice churned by hand in a copper pan set over ice and salt, a technique Ibarra has kept since the nineteenth century.

Canelazo
Hot aguardiente with cinnamon and naranjilla, drunk standing outside on cold Quito nights.

Chicha de jora
Fermented corn drink from the highlands, poured at festivals and older than the Inca.
Hornado
Whole pig roasted in a wood oven, pulled to order and served with potato cakes, hominy and a fistful of crackling.
Locro de papa
Potato soup thickened almost to a purée and finished with avocado and fresh cheese. The highland comfort dish.
Seco de chivo
Goat braised slowly with naranjilla and chicha until the sauce turns dark. Ordered with rice and fried plantain.
Cuy asado
Guinea pig, salted and turned whole over coals. An Andean festival dish long before the Spanish arrived, and still one.
Yaguarlocro
Potato soup with blood sausage crumbled over the top, plus avocado and an onion salsa. Braver than it looks, and better.
Encebollado
Albacore tuna, yuca and pickled red onion in a cumin broth. The national dish, eaten for breakfast and after a long night.
Ceviche de camarón
Shrimp cooked in lime with tomato and onion, served loose with popcorn and plantain chips alongside.
Encocado
Fish or shrimp stewed in coconut milk with coriander, the signature of the Esmeraldas coast.
Corviche
Green plantain and peanut dough stuffed with fish and fried, eaten standing at a roadside stall.
Bolón de verde
A ball of mashed green plantain packed with cheese or crackling and pan-fried. The coastal breakfast.
Empanadas de viento
Thin cheese empanadas fried until they puff up like a balloon, then dusted with sugar.
Patacones
Green plantain smashed flat and fried twice. Chips wherever chips would go, and better than chips.
Humitas
Fresh ground corn steamed in its own husk, taken with coffee in the morning.
Choclo con queso
Boiled highland corn, kernels the size of a thumbnail, with a slab of fresh cheese. Sold at every mountain pass.
Tigrillo
Green plantain mashed with egg and cheese, the breakfast plate of Loja and the Amazon foothills.
Ecuadorian chocolate
Arriba Nacional cacao, the fine-flavour variety Ecuador grows more of than anywhere else. Quito and Guayaquil sell it by single estate.
Jugo de naranjilla
A sharp green fruit, part citrus and part tomato, that becomes the country's default juice and the sauce under seco de chivo.




