Give Brazzaville two days: the Basilique Sainte-Anne, the Poto-Poto painting school and Les Rapides, with Kinshasa across the river. Then choose. West, the RN1 or the weekly Gazelle train reaches Pointe-Noire and a coast of gorges and the Tchimpounga chimpanzee sanctuary. North is the trip most people come for: lowland gorillas and forest elephants in Odzala-Kokoua, flown to and booked months ahead, best June to September. Get the visa before you fly.
Fun fact
Brazzaville and Kinshasa are the closest pair of national capitals on earth after Rome and Vatican City, and the only two that face each other across a river. The Congo is about a kilometre wide between them, the ferry takes roughly fifteen minutes, and there is still no bridge.
Stereotypes, sorted out
The realityThey are separate states on opposite banks of one river. Congo Republic is the smaller, with Brazzaville as capital, under seven million people and 342,000 square kilometres. DR Congo is Africa’s second-largest country. Booking a visa or insurance for the wrong one is a common and costly mistake.
The realityThe rainforest is real and mostly in the north. The south is savanna and hills: the Teke plateaux above Brazzaville, the Niari valley and a 170-kilometre Atlantic coast behind Pointe-Noire. The north is reached by air, the south by a four-lane road, and each needs its own clothes, budget and time.
The realityThose countries hold mountain gorillas. Congo Republic protects the western lowland gorilla, the one most zoo gorillas descend from, in flat rainforest. Odzala-Kokoua has an estimated 22,000 and joined the World Heritage List in 2023. Treks are hotter and flatter, with forest elephants on the bais.
The realityIt is the quieter half of one of Africa’s largest urban areas. The Basilique Sainte-Anne, by Roger Erell, has a copper-green roof and a nave like an upturned hull. The Poto-Poto school has trained painters since 1951. La Sape is everyday dress here. Les Rapides puts the river in front of you.
Cultural notes that actually help
- Greet before you transact. Bonjour, a handshake and a question about the day come before the price, the direction or the request, and skipping them reads as rude.
- Do not photograph airports, bridges, ports, government buildings, military or police installations or anyone in uniform. Cameras and phones have been confiscated over less, and a permit is worth asking your guide about before you raise a lens in a city.
- Carry your passport or a certified copy. Identity checks are routine on the roads and at the entrances to towns, and having the document shortens every one of them.
- Cash runs the country. Cards work in a handful of Brazzaville and Pointe-Noire hotels and essentially nowhere else, and the CFA franc used here is the Central African one, which is not the same money as the West African franc despite the shared name and rate.
- Dress is taken seriously, and not only by sapeurs. Turning up somewhere in beachwear or scuffed sportswear is read as a comment on the people you are meeting.
- Sunday belongs to church and family. Services run long, the streets are quiet in the morning and busy by afternoon, and it is a bad day to expect an office to open.
- Lingala and Kituba are the languages of ordinary life even where the paperwork is in French. Mbote as a greeting and matondo for thank you go a long way further than they should.
Famous Congolese faces
Alain Mabanckou
Serge Ibaka
Sony Lab’ou Tansi
Henri Lopes
Tchicaya U Tam’si
Emmanuel Dongala
Zao
Pamelo Mounk’a
Franklin Boukaka
Jean-Michel M’Bono
François M’Pelé
Bill Kouélany
Dieudonné Niangouna
Marien Ngouabi
Fulbert Youlou
Must-try Congolese food

Poulet à la moambé
The national dish: chicken braised in palm-nut cream with tomato, garlic and chilli.

Maboké
River fish or meat steamed in a leaf parcel over coals, served unopened.

Ntaba
Small cuts of marinated goat grilled on skewers over street charcoal. Beer food.

Mikaté
Sweet fried dough balls sold hot from roadside pans. The breakfast most people eat.

Jus de gingembre
Raw ginger blended with water, lemon and sugar, served very cold. Strong enough to cough.
Saka-saka
Cassava leaves pounded and simmered for hours in palm oil, with smoked fish or peanut.
Ngai ngai
Sorrel leaves cooked down until sour and glossy, often with smoked fish. The sharp note.
Chikwangue
Fermented cassava steamed in leaves into a dense, sour block that keeps for days.
Foufou
Cassava flour worked with hot water into an elastic paste, torn by hand to scoop sauce.
Loso na madesu
Rice and beans with palm oil and onion, the plate that feeds most of Brazzaville.
Grilled capitaine
Nile perch grilled over charcoal with chilli and lemon, at riverside and beach grills.
Makayabu
Imported salt cod, soaked, then stewed with tomato and onion or grilled.
Safou
The purple African pear, softened in hot water until buttery, eaten with bread or maize.
Malafu
Palm wine, tapped and drunk the same day, sweet in the morning and sour by evening.
