Walk out to Grenen and stand where two seas meet, then spend the afternoon with Krøyer and the Anchers at Skagens Museum and Anchers Hus. Next day, drive south to climb Råbjerg Mile and see the tower of the sand-buried church, eat shrimp at the harbour's red fish warehouses, and end at Gammel Skagen for the sunset over the North Sea.
Updated · Wimup Editorial
Skagen is Denmark's northernmost town, a fishing port of yellow houses and red roofs at the tip of Jutland, where the Skagerrak and the Kattegat meet at Grenen. Come for that sandbar, the painters' light, a dune still on the move and shrimp eaten on the quay.
Denmark ends in a curling sandbar where the Skagerrak and the Kattegat run into each other, and you can stand with a foot in each. Swimming is banned at the point because the currents are dangerous; wade, do not swim.
Founded in 1908 in the dining room of Brøndums Hotel, it holds the largest collection of the Skagen Painters, Krøyer and the Anchers among them, in a 1928 building by Ulrik Plesner. Krøyer's blue-hour beach scenes are the reason to come.
Denmark's largest migrating dune is about 40 metres high and creeps north-east by roughly 15 metres a year, burying the heath as it goes. Climb barefoot from the car park for a view of both coasts.
Drifting sand reached St Lawrence's church in 1775 and it closed in 1795; only the whitewashed tower was kept, as a landmark for sailors. The nave lies under four to five metres of sand around it.
Michael and Anna Ancher bought this house in 1884, and it opened as a museum in 1967 with their furniture and paintings still in place. Next door, Saxilds Gaard hangs more of the Anchers and their circle.
Skagen's Grey Lighthouse is 46 metres tall and about 210 steps to the gallery, the best view over Grenen and the two seas. Since 2017 it has also been a bird-watching centre, on one of Europe's great migration routes.
Skagen is Denmark's leading fishing port, and Thorvald Bindesbøll's red fish warehouses from 1907 now hold restaurants facing the boats. Order a pile of shrimp to peel yourself and a cold beer.
The old fishing hamlet of Højen faces west over the North Sea, so this is where Skagen comes to watch the sun go down. The beach is rougher and quieter than the town side, and Ruths Hotel sits just behind it.
Jørn Utzon drew this low, walled centre in 1989 and his son Jan finished it in 2000. Inside, exhibits explain the sand, wind, water and light that made the peninsula, a good primer before Grenen.
The town beach on the calm Kattegat side runs to a copy of the tipping lantern of 1627, Skagen's first lighthouse. Krøyer painted his Midsummer bonfire here, and the town still lights one on 23 June.
The poet and painter Holger Drachmann's home, a museum since 1911.
Fishermen's houses, a smithy and a lifeboat station set in the dunes.
Another harbour warehouse, with fish downstairs and music on summer nights.
Four days of icy dips, wood-fired saunas and evening concerts on Sønderstrand.
Guided walks with ornithologists during the spring migration, based at the Grey Lighthouse.
Thousands gather for the bonfire on Sønderstrand, the scene Krøyer painted.
Denmark's oldest music festival, folk and roots acts across town and harbour.
Thursday evening services with wind music in the dunes, at 19:30.
Marathon, Grenen trail and shorter races from the harbour, past the yellow houses.
Concerts at the Kappelborg cultural centre during the autumn school holiday.
A craft market at Kappelborg and a Christmas day of shop offers in Østerby.
Nordjyske Jernbaner runs the Skagen line, about 40 minutes from Frederikshavn via Ålbæk. Change at Frederikshavn for trains from Aalborg.
The nearest airport, about two hours away by bus and train with a change at Frederikshavn. Driving takes about 1 hour 30.
Frederikshavn has ferries to Gothenburg and Læsø; Hirtshals sails to Norway. Both ports link to Skagen by train or car.
The town and Grenen are flat and best by bike. The Sandormen tractor bus runs from the Grenen car park to the point.
Cold-water shrimp served in a heap to peel at the table.
Shrimp, mayonnaise and dill on toast, named for the town.
Rye bread open sandwiches, the standard Danish lunch.
Stegt rødspætte, pan-fried with parsley sauce and potatoes.
Open sandwich of fried plaice piled with shrimp and roe.
Fish cakes with remoulade, the cheaper harbour lunch.
Hot-smoked at the harbour smokehouses along with mackerel.
Round pancake puffs with jam and sugar, a December treat.
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