Kunming is the capital of Yunnan, a highland city on the north shore of Dianchi Lake. Take the train to the Stone Forest, walk the cliff path to the Dragon Gate in the Western Hills, feed the winter gulls at Green Lake, see the Dian bronzes at the provincial museum and eat crossing-the-bridge noodles. Three days covers it, four with Jiuxiang.
Kunming is Yunnan's working capital, a city of more than eight million at about 1,890 metres, with a climate mild enough to earn it the name Spring City. Most travellers pass through on the way to Dali and Lijiang. Give it three days and it pays back with temples, lakes and the province's best food.
Shilin is a forest of grey limestone pillars about 90 km southeast of the city, part of the South China Karst World Heritage Site. The Greater and Lesser Stone Forests take three to four hours on foot. Arrive at opening or after mid-afternoon, when the tour groups thin.
A path and tunnels cut by hand into the cliff lead to the Dragon Gate, a carved stone archway hanging above Dianchi Lake. Huating and Taihua temples sit lower on the same hillside. A cable car from Haigeng Dam saves the climb.
Black-headed gulls from Siberia winter on Kunming's lakes, and Green Lake is where they meet the city: thousands wheel over the bridges while locals feed them. Outside the season it is still the city's best stroll, with pavilions, dancers and tea.
The province's main museum, in a modern building south of the centre. Its bronzes from the ancient Dian kingdom, cowrie containers crowded with tiny figures, are the reason to come. Entry is free with a passport, and it closes on Mondays.
Kunming's oldest Buddhist temple traces its origins to the Nanzhao era, over a thousand years ago. Its halls stand around a large pond crossed by a stone bridge, and the street outside sells incense and Buddhist goods. A calm hour in the middle of the city.
Founded in the Yuan dynasty as Yunnan's first Chan temple, Qiongzhu is famous for its 500 clay arhats, sculpted between 1883 and 1890 by Li Guangxiu and his pupils. Each is about a metre tall, and no two faces match. Some ride on waves, others on beasts.
Kunming's best-known farmers' market has more than 600 stalls of Yunnan produce: wild mushrooms, Xuanwei ham, tea, flowers and chillies. Locals treat its prices as the city's food index. Eat breakfast at the snack stalls and shop afterwards.
A Taoist temple whose main hall is cast entirely in bronze, more than 250 tonnes of it. It was rebuilt here in 1671 by the general Wu Sangui on an older Ming base. The park climbs through pines and has a bell tower and camellia garden.
Once a market port on the northeast shore of Dianchi, Guandu keeps the closest thing to old Kunming. Its Jingang Pagoda, built in 1458 inside Miaozhan Temple, is a rare stupa raised on a gateway. Come hungry: the lanes are lined with snack stalls.
Asia's largest fresh-cut flower market handles most of Yunnan's flower trade, and the floor fills with buckets of roses, lilies and carnations every day. It is busiest after dark, when wholesalers pack boxes for flights and trains. Bunches sell for a few yuan.
Two brick pagodas in the south of the old city, a legacy of Nanzhao Tuodong.
Dian bronzes and the province's history. Closed Mondays.
The wartime university of Peking, Tsinghua and Nankai, 1938 to 1946.
Costume, crafts and ritual of the province's peoples. Closed Mondays.
Chinese New Year, on the lunar calendar. Trains out of Kunming sell out, so book early.
Yuantong Hill and Yuantong Temple bloom pink, with weekend crowds.
The Dai New Year, marked in town at Yunnan Ethnic Village with water blessings.
The rains bring the mushrooms. Markets and hotpot restaurants are at their best.
The Yi summer festival, on the lunar calendar, celebrated with bonfires in Shilin.
The season for Yunnan ham mooncakes, sold all over the city.
The flower industry's trade fair, at the Dianchi International Exhibition Center.
Black-headed gulls from Siberia winter on Green Lake and Dianchi.
About 25 km northeast of the centre. Metro Line 6 reaches the city in about 30 minutes; a taxi takes about the same.
Kunming South serves most high-speed trains and the line to Vientiane; some Dali and Lijiang trains use the central Kunming station. Book on 12306 with your passport.
Six lines link the centre, the airport, Kunming South and Chenggong. Fares are a few yuan, payable by app or card.
Taxis are metered and cheap. DiDi works with a foreign card, and is easiest for the Bamboo Temple and the hills.
Xiaoguo mixian, cooked to order in a small copper pot with pork and chives.
Yuntui yuebing, a crumbly pastry filled with sweet-salty Xuanwei ham.
Xianhua bing, flaky pastry filled with rose petals.
Rice noodles cooked at the table in scalding chicken broth with raw slices.
Qiguoji, chicken steamed in a clay pot until it makes its own broth.
A summer broth of whatever the hills produced that week.
Yunnan's dry-cured ham, fried, steamed or folded into pastry.
Fresh goat's cheese of the Sani Yi, from Shilin, usually grilled or fried.
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