The best things to do in Honiara are the Guadalcanal American Memorial on Skyline Ridge, a morning at the Central Market, the National Museum and the Parliament on its hill. Then go out along the coast road: west to the Bonegi wrecks and Vilu War Museum, east to Bloody Ridge and Red Beach, inland to Mataniko Falls with a village guide. Three or four days covers it. May to October is the dry season.
Honiara is the capital of the Solomon Islands, on the north coast of Guadalcanal facing Iron Bottom Sound. It grew out of the American base of 1942 and replaced Tulagi as capital in 1952. The battlefields of the Guadalcanal campaign start at its edges, and two Japanese wrecks lie a swim off its western beaches.
The Guadalcanal American Memorial, a 24-foot pylon on the ridge above town, honours those who died in the campaign of 1942 and 1943. It is also the best lookout in Honiara, across the city to the sound and Savo.
The city's food hall and its busiest square metre: betel nut, skipjack tuna, root crops and fruit from across Guadalcanal and Malaita, plus shell money and carvings. Come early, when the boats and trucks unload.
A compact museum of objects from every province, with traditional houses and wartime relics in the grounds. It is the best briefing on the country's many cultures before you leave the capital.
A conical concrete building finished in 1993 as a gift from the United States, in memory of the Americans who died on Guadalcanal. The dome is painted inside with traditional art, and the public gallery seats 600.
Two Japanese freighters sank off this black-sand beach on the night of 13 November 1942. Bonegi II breaks the surface, so it can be snorkelled straight from the shore; Bonegi I lies deeper and is for divers.
An open-air collection in the forest west of town, founded in 1975: a Wildcat fighter, a Type 97 tank, field guns and a 155mm howitzer, Japanese and American pieces side by side.
The ridge above the Lunga River where Merritt Edson's Marines held off a Japanese attempt to retake Henderson Field in September 1942. It is now a national peace park with a view back to the coast.
A walk of about two hours return from Lelei village to a waterfall that drops out of a dark gorge into a green pool. It is the closest wild place to the capital.
The road from Kukum climbs through jungle to a summit clearing at 410 metres, with the white Japanese Peace Memorial in tended gardens. The view takes in Henderson and the battlefield plain.
A volcanic island about 30 minutes by boat across the sound. At dawn megapode birds bury their eggs in warm sand by Panueli, and a two-hour walk leads up past hot springs to the crater.
The creek mouth where Ichiki's force was destroyed on the night of 20 to 21 August 1942.
About four hours return on a flat, shady path by the river, with guides at Tenaru Village.
A quiet green space on the hill behind the city for a short walk among local plants.
A national holiday; the city empties to family gatherings and the beaches.
Good Friday to Easter Monday are public holidays in a strongly Christian country.
A national holiday after Pentecost, kept by the churches across town.
A national holiday for the monarch, head of state of the Solomon Islands.
The 1978 independence anniversary, with the main parade and ceremonies in Honiara.
The provincial holiday for Guadalcanal, observed in the capital.
A dawn service at the American Memorial on Skyline Ridge marks the 1942 landings.
Christmas Day and the national day of thanksgiving close the year.
The old Henderson Field, about 10 km east of the centre. Taxis and minibuses wait outside the terminal, and hotels arrange transfers.
Public minibuses run the length of the coastal road for a flat fare in town. Outside Honiara service is thin.
Common in town and hailed on the street. Few have meters, so agree the fare before you get in.
Regular passenger boats leave the Honiara waterfront for Tulagi and Auki; inter-island ferries go further. Leave a spare day.
Fermented taro, often named the national dish.
Breadfruit, roasted or boiled, served beside almost any meal.
Grated cassava and coconut milk baked in banana leaf on hot stones.
The earth oven of hot stones, used for fish, pork and root crops.
A leafy green that turns silky when cooked in coconut milk.
Bought whole at the Central Market, baked and served with rice and chilli.
A giant land crab cooked whole for a feast, where it is still sold.
Not a dish but everywhere: areca nut chewed with lime and pepper leaf.
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Solomon Islands
