Castries is Saint Lucia's capital and port, rebuilt after the fire of 1948. Give a morning to downtown: Derek Walcott Square, Dunstan St Omer's murals in the cathedral and the 1894 market. Then take a taxi up Morne Fortune for the view. Base in Rodney Bay for Reduit Beach, Pigeon Island and Friday night in Gros Islet.
Castries faces a deep, sheltered harbour the French named Carénage, and it is the island's front door: cruise ships berth downtown, regional flights land at Vigie and the Pitons sit a long drive south. The town is small and busy, best read through its market, its square and the hill above it.
A 44-acre former garrison joined to the mainland by a causeway in 1972, with the ruins of Fort Rodney and a steep climb to Signal Peak, where Admiral Rodney watched the French fleet on Martinique. Go at opening and swim off the small beach after.
The old Columbus Square, renamed for the 1992 Nobel laureate in literature, who was born in Castries. A vast saman tree shades the bandstand, the 1924 Carnegie library lines one side and the cathedral faces it. Come on a weekday, when the town is working.
Built in 1897 and painted inside by Dunstan St Omer, who gave the saints and the Holy Family Black faces and set Saint Lucia, the island's patron, above the altar. Look around outside service times, and dress as you would for any church.
Opened in 1894 under an iron frame made in Liverpool, it still holds more than 300 regular vendors selling spices, cocoa sticks, pepper sauce, produce and craft. Go in the morning, before the best produce sells through.
The hill above the harbour that French and British fought over ends at Fort Charlotte, now the Sir Arthur Lewis Community College, with a 1932 Inniskilling Monument behind it. The road up gives the best view of Castries and the cruise berths.
Every Friday for more than fifty years, Gros Islet has closed its streets for grills, rum and a sound system that runs into Saturday morning. Eat early from the waterfront lambi grills, then stay for the dancing. Only Good Friday is skipped.
The north's long, calm swimming beach runs along Rodney Bay beside the marina, with water sports, beach bars and the island's densest run of restaurants behind it. Route 1A minibuses from Castries stop on the main road.
Open gondolas drift over the canopy of the Castries Waterworks Reserve, a national forest since 1916, with a guide naming trees and birds as you go. Add the zipline for speed, and book ahead in cruise season.
The home of Chairman's Reserve runs an hour-long Rhythm of Rum tour: a short film, the stills, then the tasting bar. Individual visitors are taken Monday to Friday, so plan it for a weekday on the road to Marigot Bay.
The Governor-General's residence on the Morne keeps a small museum of documents and objects on the governors who ran the island. It opens to the public on Tuesdays and Thursdays, 10am to 4pm, so time a Morne visit around it.
The closest beach to town, a long strip beside the runway, busy with locals after work.
Opened in 1924 with Carnegie money, gutted in 1948 and restored to its first look.
Built from 1890 to 1892 on the Morne to guard the coaling port, with restored 12-ton guns.
A 1.75-mile loop at about 1,000 feet with five endemic birds, the parrot among them.
A 1-mile dry-forest walk beside a small zoo that keeps the Jacquot, the national bird.
Jacky Rioux's French-Caribbean cooking at the mouth of Rodney Bay Marina.
Creole lunch on the veranda of a restored pink house on the Morne; call ahead.
Front Street closes on Fridays for coal-pot snapper, lobster and live music.
The east coast's Saturday lime, grills set up beside the rum shops at the harbour.
Woodcarving studio founded by Vincent Eudovic, with carvers at work in local hardwoods.
A steep-sided hurricane hole about 6 km south, where Doctor Dolittle was filmed in 1967.
A mineral-streaked waterfall and old baths in gardens on the Soufrière estate.
L'Express des Iles crosses to Fort-de-France in about 90 minutes, foot passengers only.
Lectures, readings and plays around 23 January, the birthday both laureates shared.
Parades and a week of national events marking independence from Britain in 1979.
The island's biggest music festival, with headline concerts and art events.
Weeks of calypso and soca building to the Parade of the Bands through Castries.
The La Rose flower society's festival of song and procession at the end of the month.
Creole Day: whole villages cook, dress and speak Kwéyòl at the end of October.
Lantern parade around Derek Walcott Square on the eve of National Day, then fireworks.
Yachts finish the Atlantic Rally for Cruisers at Rodney Bay Marina after 2,700 miles.
About 2 km north of the centre at Vigie, for regional flights. A taxi into town takes minutes.
Where the long-haul flights land, near Vieux Fort about 56 km south. Allow over an hour by road to Castries.
Minibuses leave when full. Route 1A runs from Darling Road to Rodney Bay and Gros Islet for a few EC dollars, and thins out at night.
L'Express des Iles sails from Castries to Fort-de-France in about 90 minutes, several times a week, for foot passengers.
The national dish: boiled green bananas tossed with salt cod, onion and sweet pepper.
One-pot soup of provisions, dumplings and salt meat, cooked long. Saturday food.
Dasheen leaves cooked down with coconut milk, okra and salt meat or crab.
Clear, peppery broth of whole fish and green banana, sold at the fish fries.
Salt cod beaten into a herby batter and fried by the spoonful. Bought by the bag.
Fried dough split and filled with saltfish or cheese. The cheapest good breakfast.
Conch, stewed slowly in creole seasoning or grilled at Gros Islet on a Friday.
Local cocoa boiled with spice and milk. A thick, sweet breakfast drink.
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Saint Lucia