Gyeongbokgung

Gyeongbokgung is the largest and grandest of Seoul’s five royal palaces, mountains rising behind its throne-hall roofline. Time your visit to the changing of the guard at the main gate, and know the local cheat: arrive in a rented hanbok and the palace waves you in free.

• The guard ceremony, drums, banners and silk at Gwanghwamun Gate.
• Geunjeongjeon, the throne hall and its stone-ranked courtyard.
• Gyeonghoeru Pavilion, the banquet hall on stilts over its lotus pond.
• Hyangwonjeong, the quieter rear-garden pavilion most visitors never reach.

The front courts fill around each ceremony; walk the long axis to the rear gardens and the crowds thin to nothing. Weekday mornings are calmest, and the national museums flanking the grounds absorb a rainy hour well.

Gyeongbokgung station opens directly onto the palace; Gwanghwamun square makes the grander approach. Bukchon Hanok Village starts just east of the walls, which is the natural next hour.